I'm Matt I'm Kerry we are the Stagmer brother's a Baltimore Knife and Sword we're gonna be building
some of your favorite weapons some weapons you've never seen before this is man-at-arms
reforged today's episode in 4k is brought to you by t-mobile America's best unlimited
network I've always been a big fan of vampire films and certainly one of the more popular
has been the blade series today on man-at-arms we're gonna be building blade sword we've got
quite a bit of construction to do even though the sword looks very simple from the outside
on the others internal blades that are inside the handle that have to pop out and the blade
itself is actually made from titanium so we're gonna be forging the titanium we're gonna have
to grind it which is a very difficult task once everything is fitted and the handles functional
it'll be able to turn and the blades will pop out but there's also got to be a way to make
it safe we'll probably have to do something different so that anybody can wield it during
the demo not just played himself this is a piece of titanium it is one inch round and
I have about 13 inches of it law this is exactly enough to make blade sword titanium has several
advantages it has half the density of Steel and it is resistant to heat however titanium
is actually suboptimal material for blades it does not get us hard as steel meaning the edge
retention is not so good and it subpoenas pride the first two are kind of my problem giving an
edge retention as well as giving it enough mass to slice um at the second one is Matt's problem
as he will have to be grinding this whole blade with his sunglasses on in the dark
to get an even thickness down the length of the blade he's going to
be using what we call a kiss block which is just a preset thickness piece of Steel
that he's able to put on the dies of the hammer and as the hammer comes
down and drives the top material it'll only go down as far as the kiss block
you'll notice that the oxidation on the surface of this titanium is actually in
rainbow colors it's what we call a reactive metal this effect can be shown both through
heat and using electricity in this case the heat oxidizes the surface and shows us color
so for the handle on blades sword we're gonna be working in a couple of different pieces we've
got to be inside this pipe for the mechanism for the blades but we've got to have something that's
fairly structural so we're gonna use a large piece of aluminum this is what sockets inside
of that pipe to lock it in place so I'm gonna free turn this to put the curvature in a couple other
cuts and then we'll polish it out most of it gets painted black anyway so we'll be using this plate
you can see I've laid out a series of lines I'll draw some more and make it a little bit easier
it's fairly shallow where we have to cut but we've got to make a series of them they'll all
be bright initially obviously coming off the lathe and then we're gonna paint the entire piece black
and polish those different raised sections out and then the mechanism will be set to something
now that Ilya aka our resident daywalker has the blade forged it's time to begin
the grinding process now we have never made a titanium sword blade on this show or in
general but we have made the x-23 claws and if there's anything you guys remember about
that build is that when I grind on titanium it sparks ultra white so I have some tinted
glasses it's also really bad for you to breathe so I'm gonna wear a respirator and
a full face shield while I do this my first goal is to profile the soar blade up here
at the point a little bit on the sides and then I'm gonna grind the whole plateau of it
completely clean so that when I go to do the hollow ground edges they stay nice and crisp
all right so I'm not exactly where I want to be but to give you guys a little perspective
I've now burned through three of these 24 grit blaze belts they're about the best
you can buy in the industry they're about 50 dollars apiece so that's a hundred and fifty
dollars or the belts I burn through and I'm still not anywhere close to where I want to
be on these flats but luckily when you go to hollow grind you're using a much smaller
surface area so it should hollow grind the edges a little easier so at this point I'm
gonna stop worrying about cleaning up the flats so much and just move on to the edges
due to the abrasion-resistant nature of this material that's gonna have to
use a smaller wheel that has a smaller contact patch and a brand new belt it's
going to go through quite a bit of abrasives on this cost a little bit
of money to make this happen but we'll eventually get through it
now that I've finished doing the leave work and a little bit of cleanup I've got to make
a slot for the blade to set in I've marked it where the blades gonna go through and drilled
it from behind that's gonna relieve some of the work that I have to do with the milling cutter
I'm gonna go down the center find that center hole that I drilled back through go ahead and
make the slot this is the width of the Tang this is the width of the shoulders and then
I'm going to make the shoulders of where I cut in so the shoulder of the blade sits slightly down
into it that'll make this a lot more rigid give it a lot of strength as we assemble
all right I got the bulk of my edges now roughed out on the 80 grit my edges wander
just slightly but that's no big deal I'll be able to clean all that up through the finer
grits I've been at this for a long time I've burned through almost a dozen sanding belts
one of the things I found out is I'm having to rely on my instincts while grinding this I'm
pretty much blindfolded if I wear the shaded glasses I can only see where the white sparks
cast light which is on the back side of the blade you know I've always bragged that I could
grind swords blindfolded but I never really wanted to actually try it the mechanism for
the finger slicing blades on the sword is actually fairly simple it's a version of
an umbrella so you have a stationary bobbin that holds the blades together inside the handle then
there's a moving bobbin pushed by a push spring the curve and the blades themselves allows for
the moveable bobbin to slide and push them out of the slots and milled in the sides of the handle
so here we have the stationary bobbin right the bobbin has a gue lathe it into it and the blades
are held by a slip spring the blade that's a curve this curve is very important there's
going to be a movable piece and this slides in and out and we have a four spring which works
by compression so as this pushes in it presses on this area right here and this protrudes out
the only issue is locking it in and hiding it inside the handle so there's an order of
operations going on there are slots cutting here there's a sliding second piece of pipe
on top the piece of pipe has the continuation of these slots milled in right here and it rotates
so you push the button the spring pushes and the spokes book pop out this is actually the
key to transforming your blades or from a prop to something that's very close to how you see it
in the movie alright guys at this point I have the bulk of my grinding done the last phase of
stock removal before I move onto polishing is to crisp up the plunge grind down here at the
end of the blade I haven't been able to see very well so my plunges are ever so slightly off and
it's really bugging me so what I did was I took two pieces of steel drill a quarter inch hole
through them holds it through so it's clamped on so I can make those cut-ins match perfectly
so now we've got the handle cut bilious give me a few instructions of how he wants things
changed for the internal workings he's mocked up what the blades are gonna be
the pieces are locked in with a spring these are 1095 so I've got to make some
slots that are gonna allow those to pop out of the handpiece one of the things I had to
do was take that back ring off because that's going to become part of the pommel it's gonna
be part of the locking mechanism that we use to actuate the blades I'm gonna put this first
slot in and then I'm gonna locate the other slots based on where they are on the carrier
now that we have all the handle parts figured out Lily's done a really good job doing that
I have to start creating that two-tone looked like you see in the movie to do that I'm you
some acid black I'm gonna darken the entire handle and then scrub the surface to get that
highlight look so this is pretty similar stuff to the black oxide compound you see us using
the past EPA decided in it you really shouldn't have that so one more coat the nice advantage of
doing this over painting is that it won't rub off it's pretty it's a chemical reaction all
right wash it with water use an abrasive and just kind of skate the surface and highlight
it alright from here we're going to move to the scotch brite wheel outside for our final finish
finally I have all the parts for the sword you they are the way to assemble
is here are my protruding blades first they capture them inside the
handle make sure they don't fold in take the Tang
good so this is a capturing capture is the pipe so it doesn't open up floating bobbin also known as
a push bobbin acting like a piston compression spring right about there hold my blades in now
the locking mechanism this Fork is the pusher it pushes the spring into position and here's the
palmer alright they work the only thing that's left is introduce the rules onto the handle of
the plate I'm going to use my hand cutters cut into outline black in the background leaving
the room white we always forget when we go into a titanium blade just how much more difficult
that is to forge and even more so had grind and polish the pieces came out great we're gonna be
able to show you how this thing's gonna work we'll just have to be careful with our hands as we do it
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