Iwate is the second largest and second least densely populated of Japan’s 47 prefectures.
From its dramatic coastline to its spectacular mountains Iwate offers a wide variety of attractions,
including a town that once rivaled Kyoto with its culture
rustic hot springs, unique culinary traditions , and a capital city, which the
New York Times ranked second among the places to go in the world in 2023.
My name is Raina Ong, and let me take you on a tour of where to go and what to do
on your first trip to wate
Located in northeastern Japan, Iwate is easily accessed by the Tohoku Shinkansen.
From Tokyo we board the bullet train, get off at Ichinoseki Station and transfer to Hiraizumi.
There, we’ll rent a bicycle and go first to Chusonji Temple, then to Takkoku no Iwaya,
two major attractions in the area.
Afterwards, we’ll take the train north to our hot spring accommodation in Hanamaki,
where we will end the day.
Hiraizumi was the seat of one of Japan’s most powerful noble families of the 12th century
and the former cultural and political center of northeastern Japan, rivaling Kyoto, the
old capital of Japan.
The clan and town declined long ago, but enough cultural treasures remain to make Hiraizumi
a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site.
Inside this seemingly ordinary-looking building behind me is the Konjikido.
which is covered in gold both inside and out
and also how the building got its name
I’m going inside to take a look
Konjikido is said to illustrate Buddhist paradise, and in addition to the gilded walls,
one can also see intricate and elaborately decorated Buddhist artwork inlaid with ivory and
mother of pearl.
From Chusonji, it is a 30 minute bicycle ride to my next spot, Takkoku no Iwaya
Founded over 1200 years ago, Takkoku no Iwaya is a temple built into the face of a cliff
and is dedicated to Bishamonten, one of the four guardian kings in Buddhism.
The main building is supposedly modeled after the famous Kiyomizudera in Kyoto, with the
main hall standing on support beams.
Also, carved into the rock face beside the main building is a statue of Buddha, whose face
measures about 3.5 meters long!
From Takkoku no Iwaya, we’ll return to Hiraizumi Station and take a 40-minute train ride to
Hanamaki, where we’ll transfer to a free shuttle bus to Osawa Onsen, our accommodation
for the night.
Legend has it that over 1200 years ago, a military commander who was shot with a poisoned
arrow healed from his injuries in the hot springs of Osawa.
and since then, the onsens healing properties have remained undisputed.
Besides a full-service ryokan, Osawa Onsen features an old-fashioned self-catering toji Wing
which used to be common for extended stays at hot springs in the old days but of
which not many remain in Japan today.
Accommodation at the toji wing is reasonably cheap and consists of basic Japanese-style rooms
with shared toilets and a common kitchen.
Over here we got a gas stove where you put in 10 yen
and turn the leaver
and when you do you get 10 yen of gas to cook your meals.
As it is a hot spring accommodation, I check out the different baths before dinner.
I don’t have to cook my dinner tonight as I’m not staying at the toji wing.
so Itadakimasu~
Day 2
Day 2 begins after breakfast and catching the train to Morioka.
the capital city of Iwate Prefecture, and easy to explore on foot. and central Morioka
We’ll explore on foot, and head first
to learn about the local craft
then experience the unique traditional cuisine for lunch,
visit some historical sites, and a cafes,
and end the day at a local microbrewery.
Morioka Castle was where the feudal lord Nambu and his descendants ruled over the Morioka domain for centuries.
The family’s name became synonymous with the domain, and these days, you can find traditional
craft with the name Nambu attached to it.
such as Nambu Tekki, or Nambu ironware
Primarily made in Morioka and Oshu Cities, these distinctive and traditional Nambu Ironware kettles are highly priced
for there simple yet elegant designs,
In addition, boiling water in a Nambu Tekki pot is said to produce softwater suitable for making teas.
I also visit a cozy cafe where I could taste first-hand drinks made with water that has
been boiled in a traditional kettle.
A trip to Morioka is not complete without trying wanko soba, in which diners try to
eat as many bowls of soba noodles as they can.
It’s said that this dish has a long history and today, is a unique food
culture in and around Morioka.
I’ve got my bib on and I’m ready to take on the wanko soba challenge.
I've got some side dishes and condiments to eat the soba with and each bowl contains about a mouthful of soba
Now this is not a race and im gonna try an eat as many bowls as I can.
And my goal for today is a hundred, so let's see if I get there.
After that filling lunch, it was time to go for a bit of a walk to the temple district.
Our route takes us past the Ishiwarizakura Tree.
One of the treasures of Morioka, then along the picturesque Teramachi Street before arriving at Hoonji Temple.
Hoonji Temple is known for its 500 statues of Buddhist disciples
or rakan, which are said to have been carved over a period of four years by 9 artisans in Kyoto.
After that temple visit, we continue our exploration of Morioka and stop by Nagasawa Coffee
for a coffee break.
If I had to sum up what Morioka is like, I would say it’s a major city with small neighborhood
vibes and where you can find lots of independent shops with great personalities all within
walking distance.
So to bring my day in Morioka City to a close, I head to Baeren's Saien Microbrewery, a local craft
beer brewery that also offers small bites.
It’s the end of the day and I’m at a local brewery that
has been around for about 20 years, so kampai!
Day 3
Our last day in Iwate Prefecture will be spent along the Sanriku Coast,
which was hit by the 2011 tsunami.
From Morioka Station, we take a scenic and quaint local line to the fishing town of Miyako
where we’ll try some of the fresh local seafood before visiting Jodogahama, a paradise
beach on earth.
Then we’ll drive about an hour north to Kitayamazaki to see some of the most spectacular
coastline in all of Japan and its stunning tall sea cliffs.
After arriving in Miyako, we’ll pick up a rental car to get around on our last day.
Miyako City was one of the many coastal cities in Iwate Prefecture to be badly damaged by
the 2011 tsunami.
In Miyako, it claimed the lives of over 500 people and destroyed many homes and businesses.
It’s been more than a decade since the disaster, and I am glad to see that the recovery process
has progressed well.
As a coastal city, seafood is the major local specialty of Miyako, and naturally, that’s
what I’ll have for lunch.
I go to a sushi restaurant near the fishing port, which serves up fresh, local seafood.
For lunch, you can choose between sushi or a seafood rice bowl, and guess which one is mine
After lunch, I head into the port area, which is separated from the city by large seawalls,
and where you can find the fish market, and the roadside station where tickets for the
Umineko-maru sightseeing boat to Jodogahama, an icon of the Sanriku Coast and my next spot,
can be purchased.
These are the seawalls which were built after the disaster to protect the city from future
tsunami, and you can see similar ones along the coast.
One of the highlights of taking the short boat ride between Miyako’s fishing port
and Jodogahama is seeing the local seagulls which fly alongside the boat and feeding them.
In fact, the sightseeing boat is named after Umineko, the local seagull variety.
Once I get to Jodogahama, I go to the visitor center to learn about the area
before embarking on the 15-minute trail to the iconic beach.
Jodogahama is a beautiful beach akin to the Buddhist paradise
with its white stone beach, calm waters and rocky islands jutting out of the ocean.
Jodogahama suffered some damage during the 2011 tsunami with waters coming up to a height
of 6.5 meters, but it didn’t take long for the tourist facilities to be rebuilt.
An approximately one-hour drive from Miyako takes me to Kitayamazaki, which is known for its dramatic seacliffs.
Alternatively, the two spots can be accessed via the Sanriku Railway,
which became a symbol of the region’s revival as it passes through many coastal towns that were badly damaged by the 2011 tsunami.
I’m here at the Kitayamazaki Observation Deck
from where you can get a view of the epic coastline.
Come check it out!
There are three observation decks at Kitayamazaki
from where we can appreciate the views of the coastline.
Those who want a more exciting view can consider walking down a flight of about 750 steps to
get closer to the water line and be treated to a view of the cliffs and rock formations
The breathtaking views make for a grand ending to our three days in Iwate Prefecture,
and I’m glad that we could share this together.
Thanks for joining me.
I hope this video has been enjoyable and perhaps even inspires some ideas, should you decide
to plan a trip to Iwate.
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Happy travels.