So this eye focus and face focus is so good on this canon r6 in low light
that I literally can't even see my face or my eye on the screen and i'm able to see and this camera
is able to see where it's at what is going on you guys my name is daniel and welcome back to the
channel where everything mirrorless canon cameras i'm going out for some low light photography
with the canon r6 so we're going to head out and see how well this does in low light with the ibis
as well right now for the time being i am just going to leave it on auto so the iso is just
going to be auto for everything to give it a fair chance of getting the best exposure that it can
the other side of the bridge it's actually quite dark over here now which is what we wanted
and let's see if we can get any good photos yeah you can't even see the ground that i'm on
here's the bridge and this was over on the other side of the bridge that i was just shooting off of
settings are iso 1600 40 millimeter 2.8 1 8 of a second
right there and this one turned out really really good i don't see any shake
before after before
after and a lot of these colors are just retained super well and even in these shadows
here i'd say this is an acceptable amount of grain at 16. i'm pretty sure i shot one at a higher
iso for this section 16. there we go here's the higher iso this is at six thousand four hundred
and the focus point was on the ship rather than the background so this is gonna be blurry simply
because i was focused on the boat now there's a ton of detail still left in there and i would say
this isn't too terribly grainy either and let's hit auto and really take a look yeah like look at
that yeah this is kind of ridiculous over here in the back because it's a little bit blurry but the
focus point was the boat so we're going to take that and we're going to drop that down in the back
there we go and you just look at the boat there is a bunch of detail i would say this is this
is pretty much usable you could use this now i i don't think it will be 100 usable
at such isos and this was at um let's see here one tenth of a second
so this next section could be a little bit slow but i have four photos that
perfectly show how far you can push the ibis and the colors and the stuff that you're going
to get out of this sensor so stick with it if you get bored skip to the third i edit that one
and then on the fourth and fifth i start showing you where the limits of the ibis actually are
and this is or these are all taken with a 40 millimeter at 600 or 6400 with the ibis turned
on so stick with it thanks for watching so the next one i'm showing you is a set of photos and
this is a whole bunch of photos of where i live taken at different shutter speeds this one shot
at iso 1600 40 millimeter 2.8 at 1 20 to 1 200th of a second and let's just do exposure
and it comes in about right there all the way i mean there's an intense amount of grain
boosting this there but you can still make out the windows and things and details that are there
it's insanely grainy because we're boosting it after it's already been taken so what
iso does is it boosts the sensor what hits the sensor and it boosts it as it goes to the card
to write it and then when you're boosting it afterwards it's the reason that we don't boost
radio signals at the receiving end we boost them at the actual sending end same reason let's go
into this next one this one is at exact same except for now it's at a hundredth of a second
and bringing it up
and zooming in again much less grain
as you can see the colors are still the colors are very much so still there you got the nice greens
and everything but it is grainy because it is at a high iso let's go to the next one this one is now
at the exact same except for at 50th of a second so we're pretty much dropping it down an entire
stop every single time when we do this and raise iso see there didn't have to go nearly as far
to get to the exact same spot and you can see there's way more detail in there
and the colors are still just as good as even at the higher
isos maybe a little bit better but it just goes to show how good the sensor is in low light
now let's go to this one this one is now going to be i believe 25th of a second so another
stop down and right there only i'd go up about one and a half as you can see even less noise
getting that in there
and really really allowing this camera to pull in a lot of detail this is pulling in a ton of
detail for how and this is just on auto let's see if i can actually you know brush this up
because this is the first one that i'd say is actually starting to look really good
and this was all handheld and there is no stabilization on this 40 millimeter
let's see here if i can boost some of these colors
and man that sky i just love how the light just bounces off those clouds above it let's
let's let's drop this one down here i really shouldn't because we have another photo to do
drop that right there and that's pretty much how i edit it probably a little bit of touch
up cropping in but that is how it works our next photo is taken at 15th of a second and let's go in
here this is once again handheld let's see if we can see any shake doesn't take much at all
this one's about the same i mean this didn't drop an entire stop
as you can see right there more detail more light
it's doing really good is that a little bit of is that a little bit of shake i see there
a little bit no i i think that was just an area that was blurry maybe here there's a little bit
of shake starting to happen with this lens so it's not noticeable at a distance but i think there's a
little bit of shake being introduced by my hands my hands are not stable at all i have a terrible
time keeping my hands steady then our final photo was taken at eight eighth of a second and let's go
in here yeah you can definitely see that there's shake happening at an eighth of a second with this
so right there you can see that it starts to come in and yep definitely shake there
definitely shake there that is the ibis finally reaching the maximum limits that it has and
so i think about what was this one at 1 25th of a second is about where i can shoot
with stabilization ibis only on lenses that don't have it you could probably push this
even further with a total wide angle lens just because shake is a little bit less noticeable on
the wide angles but this is pretty much where we are at i think that this is a fantastic
like demonstration of all the colors that are still in there with this intensely low
light situation one of the first things i've noticed as well with the video mode is that the
auto white balance does a lot better than in the actual photography like these are tungsten lights
but it changed a lot quicker so if everything is tungsten in the room like when i was in my
house then everything else it'll automatically adjust it whereas when it's in the photography
mode i feel like it takes forever so if you enjoyed this video and want more videos in
the future to help you shoot better with your r6 don't forget to like and subscribe to the
channel where everything mirrorless canon cameras hey thank you for watching you have a great day