(whooshing)
- Welcome back to another episode of the GCN Tech Clinic,
where we help answer and solve your bike related problems.
So if you've got one, leave it for me down there
in the comments section and I'll do my very best
to help answer it in a forthcoming episode.
As ever though, let's crack on
with the first question this week
that comes in from David Hall.
Now David says Hey Jon, GCN Tech Clinic is always great.
Check's in the post, David.
Now David has got a Bianchi Via Nirone 7
with a Sora 9 speed groupset.
However, looking to get some new wheels,
and online most wheels specify 10 or 11 speed.
Can he use those wheels with a nine speed groupset?
Would love to ask a local bike shop,
but he's living in Japan and he says
Jon, you know the language barrier is hard.
Yes, I do after my trip out there to Japan,
but I found everyone out there
was just really, really helpful.
But let's solve this problem then.
Well, the good news is that nine speed group set
will in fact fit on all 10 or 11 speed free hubs out there.
I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't.
What you will need though is most likely a little spacer
quite often which goes on first onto the free hub
before you put the cassette on
then before you put that lockring on .
They do come in different thicknesses.
So pop along to your local bike shop
and I'm sure even with the best sign language
you can communicate there and get the right size spacer.
Enjoy your new wheels.
The next question this week comes in from playandteach.
Now playandteach has got themselves some 105 28 mm
ready brake calipers.
However, they've had a couple of scary moments
where small stones have got caught
in between the calipers and the tire.
In one case, it came to a sudden stop.
Do I have any advice or do I know why this could be
because they think there should be enough clearance
to actually be able to run those tires.
The tires are actually Continental GP4000's.
Playandteach reckons that they are
slightly on the larger side.
Playandteach also wants to know should they give up on them
and try a different 28mm tire all together?
Now this one is actually really hard to diagnose
without actually seeing the bike
and making sure you have fit all the components
on there correctly.
So it's likely to actually be the brake calipers
and the brake shoes.
But something here certainly worth considering
is brake bridge, for instance, is it really close
to the tire?
So is it on a really close clearance frame?
If so, that could well be providing the problem
where the actual material of the brake caliper
is too close to the tire and yet if you are
getting little stones they could well rub on there.
So have a look really because not all frames
are gonna be compatible with 28mm tires
Eeen if you do get those specific calipers.
So just have a look over that.
As for ditching the GP4000's and trying something else
you could try but the 4000s in my experience
and the 28mm they do measure pretty true
to what they say they are.
So first off, I would just check the actual clearances
around your fork crown as well as
the bridge on the rear triangle.
And next up we've got Daniel Jones.
Now Daniel says when do you know it's time to add
a tooth to the big chain ring?
I'm currently using a 52 tooth
but they're thinking they need to go to a 53.
Now Daniel does ironman triathlons
and is in the highest gear possible going down hills
and spinning over 110 rpm on the flat
generally in the 4th smallest cog on the cassette.
Would I need to change the small chain ring as well?
So right then Daniel, the mere fact that you're asking
this question, I reckon your ready for it.
Especially, like you say, your actually spinning
out at quite a high cadence on those descents.
By going up to a 53 tooth chain ring
it is gonna give you just a little bit of a smoother ride
I guess on those descents.
Also on the flat, this means that you can probably be
in the fifth sprocket from the end
and therefore probably have a smoother chain line
than in the fourth, therefore giving you
possibly half a watt or a watt saving something like that.
As for replacing the inner chain ring at the same time,
I know lots of people out there would recommend it
so quite often on chain rings people say,
certainly on Shimano,
53 39 on there and things like that
and people will say replace them in pairs
because the shifting ramps and pins
are designed in such way,
however, that's not strictly necessary.
I've done it, certainly, mixing and matching chain rings.
Okay the shifting performance may not be absolutely
at the best it could be but it's still certainly adequate.
Plus you gotta think about how often you actually change
chain rings to start with.
Okay next question comes in from Matt Ryan.
Matt says that they picked up a Felt B16
as a stepping stone into Triathlon.
But the internally routed cables seem to rattle
inside of the frame.
Any ideas on the best way to fix it?
It's a minor annoyance but I like it
when everything is just right.
Man after my own heart there because well yeah
I hate it when a bike rattles and also I do forgive you
for taking part in Triathlon there we are only jokin'.
But what about that annoying rattle then,
well first up find out exactly which tube it's coming in.
Probably, your top tube or your down tube.
Remove likely your bottom bracket
or at least certainly your chain set
or your seat post, isolate that cable,
but how are we gonna do that?
Get yourself some bubble wrap, yep that's right.
So it's light weight, its not gonna trap water,
its not gonna hold it or anything like that
and you can wedge it in place
and if you're lucky you can kind of wedge it
so that your cables are away from the actual
internal of the frame tubes
therefore preventing that rattle.
Something I've done in the past before
with one of my own bikes and it is a fail safe solution.
Yes!
Okay next up is Artur and Artur says
Hi Jon! Great show, I watch it every week!
Again, another check in the post.
I have a 2015 Cannondale Supersix with SRAM red
and 11 28 cassette.
Planning to buy a new and lighter pair of wheels
to use on uphill training and races.
I read that the rear derailleur
does not work with an 11 32 cassette, is that right?
Do you think it could work with an 11 30?
What should I do?
Thanks a lot, cheers from Brazil
Brazil hey always wanted to visit.
Right okay what about that then?
Well I'm pretty sure that a 32 tooth cassette
won't be accommodated unless you're using
one of the wide flight model rear derailleurs
but I wasn't exactly 100% sure on that one.
So if you do though you're likely to have to play
around with that B tension screw to actually
basically adjust where the upper pulley wheel sits
in relation to the cassette sprockets
and you're gonna wanna actually drop that down a little bit
by using that screw but you will definitely
be able to use a 32 cassette on there
because a friend of mine he's done exactly that.
And he used the Shimano cassette believe it or not
to get the compatibility.
But yeah its very likely whatever you do
you are going to play around with that B tension screw
so just be aware of that to get the perfect shifting.
And good luck.
Next up is Casey Rutledge.
Now Casey has got a problem with their bike
that the front fork's dropouts were painted
and well the paint has began to crack and fall off.
How do they stop if from progressing up the fork?
Alright then Casey.
Paint problems, never good.
Now I consulted with my college Dotty over on GMBM for this
and luckily we agreed the best thing to do is
get yourself some acetone or an alcohol swab,
clean up those drop outs
and where the paint has been affected really really well.
And then get yourself some clear nail varnish
and then simply paint it on there to kind of build a bridge
in between the current paint
and the stuff that's been missing.
Therefore, that should seal it
and prevent any paint from flaking further up your forks.
Next up is Lau Hea who says
they really enjoy watching the show.
How safe is it to run SRAM Etap rim brake shifters
using a TRP disc brake caliper on a disc frame?
Will the cable pull destroy the frame?
Alright check this one out.
Now TRP actually lists all of their cable operators
and the disc calipers as being compatible
with all cable shifters out there.
All cable brake levers on the market
so you will be safe with that.
As for it destroying your frame with the cable pull,
no danger of that because even if the cable
is going to be running through an outer cable
so that outer cable that stays fixed in place
its simply that inner cable which travels through.
Next up is Stephen Moore.
Now Steven says they've got a pair of cx18 rims on
campag record hubs for my vintage Gazelle build,
keen to see this one.
Will the tubulars still be good if reglued?
They look new with no signs of degrading or perishing.
They are 25 years old but had very little use.
Stephen, a fellow vintage tech lover, I like this.
In fact, Eddy Murks, he used to have a cellar
full of old tubular ties that he had maturing.
But like anything, after a little bit of time
they could well go off in effect.
But like you say, the rubber looks good.
They look to to be new almost.
But something to consider here with old tubulars,
and this is a problem I've ran into myself,
is the base tape pulling away from the actual carcass
of the tubular, so a way of discovering if that's
gonna happen is by mounting those tubulars
without any glue on onto a pair of tubular rims,
and pump them up to their maximum PSI
and then inspect that base tape
to make sure its still fully adhered
onto the actual carcass.
If its not, something I've used in the past
to actually re-stick it onto the carcass
is latex based adhesive.
It seems to do the trick alright.
A lot of people, they recommend using tubular cement
so your top glue for instance.
But I found that gets a little bit too hard
and also it tends to create just a bit of extra bulging
really not giving you the super smooth ride
of tubular tires.
So give that one a go and see how it gets on.
Plus I'm desperate to see that vintage Gazelle build.
I absolutely love them.
Alright, final question this week comes in from Simon Guard.
John, I've got a Vitus Energie cross bike with SRAM 1 by.
The frame has internal cable routing
but being one by, I have two ports on the bike
which are filling up with mud.
Contacted Vitus, they don't do blanks.
Do you have any ideas or know where I can buy them?
Alright, Simon, nice little bike you've got there,
but it sounds great that you're going out
and getting nice and muddy.
(blows) Right, easier solution here.
Clean up around those areas
and simply put some frame protector on there
or insulation tape, gaffer's tape, anything like that,
alright?
It's not gonna look the most elegant,
but well it's a cyclist's bike,
so it's getting covered in mud anyway.
It's gonna stop the mud getting in there.
Something that a friend of mine does,
they actually fill those holes with silicone sealant,
the sort of thing which you put around
the edge of a bath or shower, something like that.
Just be careful, though, you don't put too much in there,
and it goes all down inside the frame.
You want to be able to pick it off
in the case that you do go back to a two by setup.
Last one, a little bit extreme perhaps,
but, well, I like to throw them out there.
If you've got a friend or know someone
who has a 3D printer, maybe, just maybe,
they can make you something fancy to go in there.
But, again, that's gonna take quite a bit of planning
and really have to measure in fact, so personally,
I's probably just go for that simple elegant,
well, maybe not that elegant, but tape solution.
Alright, there we are, this week's tech clinic
done and dusted,
but remember, if you've got yourself a technical problem,
get involved down there in the comments section.
Also, if you've got a solution
for one of these problems, too,
why don't you help them out?
A friend in need is a friend indeed, right.
Also, don't forget to like and share this video
with a friend, don't forget to check out the GCN shop
at shop.globalcyclingnetwork.com.
And now, for another great video, how about this week's
Monday Maintenance just down here.