Wow what a fantastic print this is this is the Voronoi version of my stepped bin and
this absolutely clean print came off of the CR-10S Pro that I have right here
this is the latest CR-10 style printer from Creality it came out two years after the original
CR-10 and even though the prints are absolutely fantastic today I'll be telling you why you might
be better off going with the original I'll tell you all about it and today's review here I'll
make anything cool hey friends Devin here with make anything and today I'm reviewing the new
CR-10S Pro by Creality it's not entirely new it's about 8 months old but I like to thoroughly
test my printers and I've had two of these for about six months today I'm gonna be looking at
all the cool new features of the CR-10S Pro and also explaining why I would still go with the CR-10
as someone who's new to 3d printing the CR-10 is absolutely one of my very favorite printers
and if you check out the favorites section of my website you'll see that it's my number one
recommended printer for people getting into 3d printing I've had so much time to get to know
this CR-10 printer and you might notice that I have several upgrades that I'll tell you about
but first let's take a look at the new CR tennis pro and what that's got going for it
the S Pro is definitely the sleekest CR-10 yet with all the controls built directly into the
redesigned base underneath the tried and true classic rectangular CR-10 frame the simple LCD
screen and physical control knob on the original CR-10 has been replaced with this nice large
full-color touchscreen which makes it really easy to navigate the menu and get to all the different
settings including the all-new leveling mode which probes 16 points across the build surface in order
to account for warping or other inconsistencies the S Pro now features an all metal extrusion
system including dual BondTec extruder gears that lead to a high-quality Capricorn PTFE tubing and
there's also a filament run-out sensor like many run-out sensors it doesn't detect film it jams but
if you run out of filament clean it'll pause the print and wait for you to put more filament in so
you can resume the print what used to be multiple loose cables have now been consolidated into one
nice flat ribbon cable which certainly helps with organization and the z-axis now runs on
two steppers and two threaded rods which is meant to help with stability likewise the heated bed now
moves along two aluminum extrusions instead of just one as it did on the original CR 10 the 24
volt power supply doubles the voltage going into the heated bed which means it can heat up much
quicker reaching 110 degrees Celsius in about five minutes we've also got the steppers running on TMC
trinamic drivers which make this the most quiet CR 10 yet sure for the extra 200 dollars you are
getting a lot of new features on the CR 10's pro but if you're like me the one thing that
really matters is print quality here in front of me I've got a small selection of prints done on my
CR-10 my CR-10S and my CR-10S Pro printers and if you take a good look at them you might find that
they all look pretty much the same fantastic they all have an amazing print quality the prints that
you can get off of this printer and this printer will both look fantastic as long as you've got it
tuned and tinkered with even if the s pro has some feature that you really like you're often
better off just adding that upgrade to the CR 10 yourself that said the main reason that I prefer
the CR 10 is that the CR 10 s has some upgrades that I actually consider downgrades they're making
the experience less enjoyable for me first of all there's the build surface I really like the
glass build plate that comes on the CR 10 glass is awesome because it leaves you with a really clean
shiny finish on the bottom and it's really easy to remove prints if you just let the build plate cool
down prints usually just pop right off if you do have problem with bed adhesion add a little
bit of hairspray and that'll usually do the trick now the CR 10S Pro has this aluminum build plate
with buildtak on top of it first of all aluminum build plates do have a tendency to warp as they
heat up and cool down over and over again and build tech unless the build plate is removable
and flexible so you can just bend the build plate and pop off prints bill tak is really finicky and
I find that half of the time the prints are too close and it's really hard to remove prints and
you often end up having little chips somewhere in the print where you slammed it with the spatula
or the prints don't adhere very well also you're left with a print surface that is more matte and
it often has traces of the filament from the last thing you printed stuck to it it's just not so
great you can already see there's a chunk missing be as one of my prints was sticking too hard and
that spatula just took out a chunk of build tech glass is just so much better in my opinion it's
so much more forgiving with bill tech your bed has to be absolutely perfectly level or you might run
into some problems and that leads to my next and biggest problem with the CR 10s Pro and that's
the Auto leveling the see our tennis pro has this little conductive sensor which it uses to probe
the plate at different points and auto level the printer unfortunately it's just not implemented
very well at all with the CR 10s Pro when I first got these printers it was truly terrible because
every time you turn the printer off and on again all the settings for the auto leveling were erased
so you'd have to run an auto level every time you restart your printer in the past few months Cree
ality released a new firmware so I had to flash that new firmware in there and now it does save
those settings but it's still not consistent so even if you have those leveling settings in
there the Z height just isn't always the same so sometimes it's too close to the bed and sometimes
it's a little too high right like two prints back-to-back you'll have that problem and that
is never an issue I've had with the CR 10 manual leveling is not that difficult especially on the
CR 10 I mean it's just a matter of tuning these little knobs on the bottom I often do it as the
print is starting and once you've got it down it's there you can print over and over again and you're
not going to have a problem as with this CR 10s where it tries to do the conductive leveling and
every time it's off by a fraction of a millimeter luckily the CR 10 s pro does have a baby z step
option in the print so you can manually adjust the height of the nozzle very slightly as the print is
going on but it's just so much easier on the CR 10 that I don't really understand the lure here
also because this printer has to probe the center of the bed before every print you lose the ability
to do certain techniques like the multi pass multicolor technique that I've used on the CR
10 printer to create really nice multicolor prints can't really do that as easily on the CR 10s Pro
the same goes with some other cool upgrades that I've done on the CR 10 you can't attach this
extruder knob to manually feed film it as well as this knob to manually adjust the Z height you
can't do this on the CR Tennis Pro because it has those dual zere odds personally I've never
had any problems with this CR 10 regarding this single z thread there are plenty of ways to adjust
this beam to make sure that it's really sturdy and rolls up and down smoothly and structurally sound
if you live somewhere where you constantly lose power you're not going to be able to resume prints
with the CR 10 but you can on the CR 10's pro but you can also do that on the CR 10's model which is
right between these two that model has the dual z rods it has the power resume function and it also
has the filament run-out sensor so if anything I would go for that model before going all the way
to the CR 10 s Pro just because of that leveling issue and other little problems I've mentioned
it's definitely nice that this has a 24 volt power supply versus the 12 volt supply here the bed can
heat up a lot quicker it's a quieter printer it's got drivers that are a lot more silent it's also
got that touchscreen which is a little easier to navigate than this old-school knob on the CR
10 those are some great features that the C our tennis pro has that the C R 10 doesn't have but
they're just not necessary to me and you know I like to save money where I can so in terms of just
getting a great print the CR 10 does it as well as the S Pro the CR-10S Pro is a bit more
compact I really do like that unified body but I was able to basically reduce the width of the CR-10
by just as much with a few extra upgrades I printed these CR-10S legs that Agustin floalistik
designed and I'll link to those in the description and that allowed me to put the whole
power unit underneath the printer which saves some space as well as this top loading spool
holder that I designed which is also really nice all right there you have it the CR 10 the CR 10 s
Pro both fantastic printers I love criolla T but I gotta say I'm still going with the CR 10 or maybe
the CR 10 s I do have a previous mega review on those two printers as well as the Ender 3 and some
other CR 10 style printers if you want to learn a bit more about these machines I hope you found
this video informative and if you're interested in purchasing one of these machines I'd really
appreciate it if you use the affiliate links in the description they don't cost you any extra
money but they do give me a small cut I will also put links to download the STL files for all the
suite upgrades I did on the CR 10 as well as these really cool models that I've been printing some
of them at least others I'm still working on but if you're subscribed you'll get them soon enough
finally if you're watching this video way in the future I would suggest checking out my website
make anything dot design slash favorites for a more up-to-date list on my currently recommended
printers well then that's it for today's video I hope you enjoyed it I hope it was informative if
you still have any questions go ahead and ask them in the comments I try to read every single one
and yeah that's it so until next time I'm Devon this is Make Anything and as always stay inspired