hey thanks for watching another video from welding tips and tricks com I'm
Jody Collier and I'm Andrew Cardin. today we're going to be doing a 5f joint that
is a tube to plate where the axis of the tube is in the horizontal position and
the plate is in the vertical position so before welding and before tacking all the
mill scale was removed . tacks were made and they're made intentionally a
little bit smaller than the final welds so that it can be consumed without
telling where the tack welds are. 145 amps are going to be using a five thirty
to seventy eighteen electrode here so arc length and rod angle are
important but I say arc length is the most important thing. Rod angle using a
5/32" rod is fairly forgiving and sometimes you have to cheat a little bit
and use quite a push angle when you're going uphill with with a large electrode
like this the amperage at a hundred and forty five amps along with the arc
control also called dig sometimes with that set kind of high that helps not
stick the rod so you can hold a fairly tight arc without sticking the rod. if
you've got enough amperage or if you've got the arc control function set maybe
about seven to ten so just for the sake of filming we're doing the bottom half
first because my camera is already down there and enter his pancake Hood is kind
of getting in the way just a little bit there every time I show a pancake hood
on a video here people ask about it it's for people that weld outside. Andrew
works outdoors all the time and a pancake hood just blocks out all the
light that might otherwise come in the back of your helmet and put glare on
your lens and keep you from seeing what you need to see you need to see things
immediately like on a tie-in or restart or anything like that and that's why
people wear a pancake hoods when they weld outside they need them especially
pipe liners there we go here's a restart Andrew always strikes
his arc a good answer so in front of the crater and drags it back down into the
crater and then welds over top of all that stuff that he drug down there so
that he doesn't have any arc strikes outside of the weld bead all arc strikes
re consumed by the by the weld bead and that's what you want to do on any weld
and well test especially on any weld test
arc strikes are considered a defect not permissible sometimes on a final
inspection you might be allowed to blend them out but on a weld test oftentimes
they'll failure so get in the habit of striking your arc in such a way in front
of where you're gonna will so that you will right back over all the arc strikes
Andrews moving the ground clamp around a little bit and sometimes that helps with
arc blow with a 532 rod when you get toward the end of it without a position
weld like this sometimes you start getting a little arc blow and that's
basically just a magnetic field that's set up from the direction of the current
flow and it's sort of it makes the rod burn unevenly and makes you really have
to really pack it in there to prevent undercut so sometimes moving the ground
around can help again using a slight oscillation sometimes some little small
circles Andrew changes it up sometimes side to
side small circles upside down V whatever it takes well that wraps that
one up after a nice thorough wire brushing we'll take a little quick look
at this thing on the top and the bottom and the sides and everywhere it's an
exercise in repositioning your body while holding a tight arc and watching
those toes of the weld so that you don't leave any undercut this would be much
easier with a 1/8 7018 electrode but some people are being required to use
532 in the field so I thought I'd put this out there this is brought to you by
weld monger comm that is my online store that is how I pay for these videos I
appreciate your support we'll see you next time