Hello
Tomoe and Ikedai!
It's a basic lesson of "Double Dyno" today!
OK. Let's jump onto a wall.
Here we go!
Yes!
I'm here.....what?
Ikedai is not....
(Ikedai could not warp drive.....lol)
You are late!
Sorry man!
(That all for today's silly action. lol)
This time, I will use black and green hold problem
to teach you how to do a double dyno!
Let me try once.
Problem for today.
Side view
I will explain 4 important things to
climb a double dyno problem.
Before I start,
as I said in the video of "4 technics for coordination problem".
The most basic thing is to be relaxed and
not to hold with your power.
Technic No. 1.
You should swing ya body for minimum times.
1. Do not swing body many times.
I only swing
once for most cases.
Like this.
For the first swing、
you squat to aim your target.
Then jump!
I see many climber who are not good at "Double Dyno"
swinging a lot.
Swing, swing, swing......
trying to set the timing......but
in that way,
your arms will get tired
and hands will be stressed.
Moreover, if you swing a lot,
not only vertically, but also
your hip would shake.
And that makes you to lose the timing
to jump.
So basically
just only one or two swing
and you should jump.
Ikedai: Simply you get tired by swinging.
Tomoa: You got it.
Ikedai: Please.
(As many as you swing, you get tired and body will not be stable.)
Ikedai: I see you're losing control.
2nd important point
is about the timing of "Pull" and "Push".
2. Think about "Pull" and "Push" timing
Most climbers think dyno is
to pull and jump.
But in fact, I pull and
switch to push.
By pushing, you can jump higher.
Let me explain it.
In the manner of double dyno,
pulling move is important
to generate an initial velocity.
Therefore,
a move of squat
and to reach this point is
"Pull".
Your waist
hits
around this height is "Pull".
Until this position,
it is to support your legs by hands.
After you get enough height,
you switch to "Push".
By pushing,
you can enhance
your jumping speed!
So
until this position
you "Pull" and then
"Push"!
Like to flick ya body.
Or throw ya body down, I suppose.
Yes, just like throwing smelting away.
With this move,
it is very good that
you can bring ya body up
comparing to not doing it.
In addition,
pushing move
brings your body
to get close to a wall.
You can push as I do,
so you get close to a wall.
Ikedai: you can stay close to a wall, right?
Push as long as you can.
Eventually, you are hands will get close to you.
So naturally the distance between
you and wall will be closer.
As a result, your body position is
very good to jump!
Ikedai: I take slow motion video.
・You push a hold just before jump. ・Like throwing a hold down.
Technic No.3
It is to focus on a lower foot.
3. Focus to strongly kick your lower foot when you jump.
When doing "Double dyno",
most climbers are kicking upper foot.
And every body is fine with it.
However, if you are only kicking an upper foot,
your body get apart from a wall.
So it is very important to
focus on a lower foot in order
to bring your body up.
I will show it.
Come closer!
Why you focus on a lower foot?
It's because if you only use an upper foot
it will be like this.
Let me show you.
Like in this position using an upper foot only,
a surface of a hold you kick is
facing towards
the opposite side of a wall.
If you kick
this surface,
you will get
apart from
a wall.
To avoid that, you kick a lower foot,
then bring up your body lie this.
Important to bring up your body.
Kick a lower hold first,
then you start to focus on a upper foot.
Again. I say it is very important.
How is it like, Ikedai?
Ikedai; So you kick an upper hold
after your body is up, right?
Definitely.
Lower first.
Then you place your weight on
an upper and kick!
Just need to jump as what is not enough.
If you focus on a lower, you can jump up. more.
Technic No.4!
You need to wait until your body come up.
This point is
very similar to No.3.
Focus on a lower foot.
So slight difference.
I will show what I mean.
What will happen if you kick before
your body is up?
This is just like to kick an upper foot hold.
If you kick before your body is up,
you will get away from a wall.
But
if
you wait until
your body is up.
As you see.
I'm close to a wall.
Be patient.
I repeat that you need to wait
until your body is up.
It means that
as I explaine,
if you kick before your body is up,
you can only jump away from a wall.
I know some climbers who can
jump high, but not good at "Double dyno".
Those climbers are
not thinking about this point.
The problem here
looks
you must jump high.
But in fact, I'm not juming so much.
See this.
Just stay until this position.
I am up to this high enough.
I reach here,
so I jump a little bit as I need.
New fact: "Double dyno" is not a complete jump move. It is rather to stand up and mini-jump move.
Let me conclude.
I am not that
tall climber though.
I can wait until my body position is up.
So I get higher!
Ikedai: You wait.
Until the best position.
Wait until your body weight is on an upper hold and jump!
Today, it was a basic "Double Dyno" lesson.
4 technics today!
I will review
them with Ikedai.
Ikedai: Let's see it
together!
No.1
Swing times
should be limited.
1. If you swing many times
you get tired and
your body will be unstable.
You cannot jump when you're tired.
So just swing once or twice.
And jump!
No.2
Dyno is
not only about "Pulling"
but "Pushing"!
2. Think about the timing of "Pull" and "Push".
Until your waist is
touching a hold,
you "Pull", then later you "Push".
By that your body stays close to a wall
and also you get
extra power to go up.
Ikedai: Throw a hold down.
Ikedai: Just like that.
No.3
Focus on
a lower hold to kick.
Strongly!
3. Focus on a lower foot to kick strongly.
By doing that,
your body comes up.
So you can use
less effort to kick an upper foot hold.
As a result,
you get much higher!
Ikedai: Awesome☆
No.4, the last!
This is very difficult though.
You wait until your body is up enough.
4. Wait until your body is up. Be patient until your
body is up enough,
then kick to
jump
effortlessly!
Ikedai: I saw
you were
jumping a little.
Yes, for this problem,
I just jump
this much only.
Have everyone got all technics understood?
Ikedai: Your score?
I got 10 out of 10!
A liar. lol
By the way,
4 technics I taught today are useful
even if a start hold
is up,
or down
or both hand type,
or however it is.
For most problems you can use.
So you can try on
many different problems.
Challenge "Double Dyno"!
Under hold start.
Beatutiful!
Separate start.
Setting is interesting. lol
Gaston start.
Hey, it's dangerous. lol
I really love you all
if you use 4 technics and
try your "Dyno".
Be the Double Dyno master!
If you liked
the video
please
"Like" us on the channel!
See you then!
Behind the scenes. Special: Rotate Dyno.
Dangerous. lol
Shinta Ozawa: Impossible! I don't see hold. lol
Sandal gone......
Frogs' concert outside.....
Behind the scenes. Bad take... No.1
What was it!? lol (Totally forgot)
Next video! Drawing trans game!
Special gust is...
Here we have Keita Watabe!
Let's practice to draw "Nobita" (A character in Japanese animation Draemon)
30 seconds to finish.
Draw "Nobita"
What???? Keita is????
Can you transfer the topic by drawing???? (The topic is a very famous〇〇 person)
English subtitle by FreiHeit
Thank you for watching!! Arigato!