-Hey, this is Donnie Smith, and welcome to this lesson
on glaze putty.
Now what glaze putty is, it may be
called glaze putty, finish glaze, basically
the same thing.
But it's kind of like a body filler,
but it's a thinner material.
It's not meant to be applied as thick, and it's thinner,
and it sands much easier.
The disadvantage of putty is that it's
a lot more expensive than your regular body filler.
Another benefit of glaze is it can
be applied over your sanded paint.
Most technical data sheets say that it
needs to be sanded with at least 180.
So 180 grit or coarser this can be applied over.
But the reason I really like to use a glaze putty
is because it can go over your sanded paint, primer,
all those different layers that you
can feel after you have featheredged,
and it can go over your body filler and metal.
So this makes it ideal to go over the entire area.
And rather than fighting those different rings,
those different layers of coating,
and trying to get those where you can't see them
at all after you go over it with the glaze and block it out,
you don't have that issue.
So it really saves on a lot of primer and blocking.
And even though primer's a little bit higher
than body filler, primer is still more expensive
than the putty is.
So I like to use it just as a skim coat after all my body
work is done.
Plus if I had a few pinholes, a few imperfections,
a few minor low areas, it's going to fix all that too.
Now in this video I'm going to use a 3M system.
It's a 3M Dynamic system.
And they have different cartridges.
In these cartridges you can get body filler,
you can get this glaze, you get fiberglass filler,
and they now also even have their seam sealers and panel
bond, plastic repair.
They can all come in these cartridges, which
makes it pretty cool if you have this Dynamic Mixing System.
But the same rules apply.
If you're mixing your glaze, it works just as well,
but you do need to mix it and apply it.
The benefit of this gun is it mixes
all inside the cartridge for you.
This is a two part, 2K, product that we're using here.
They also make one part putty.
That's what we used to use a long time ago,
and I think they still make it.
I think it still is available, but I
would recommend getting a two part putty.
It just works much better, and you don't get the shrinking
that we used to get with the one part putties.
So now we're going to apply the putty.
We're going to block sand it.
We're going to finish it out in 150, because that's
where the P-Pages in the estimating guide, Mitchell
Estimating Guide, cuts it off.
That's where they cut it from being the body technician's job
and then it goes on to the paint shop.
So we are going to finish it out in 150 again.
Like I've talked about the last video,
you may prefer to finish it off finer, and a lot of people do.
Some people will finish off their body work
in 180 or even 220.
So that's just preference.
Now let's go ahead and get started.
OK, now we're ready to apply the putty glaze.
And this works real well because I'm
going to put it over everything sanded with the 150,
over the different paint layers, over the metal and body filler.
And this works great because it levels all those surfaces
where you don't feel the different layers of paint
and primer and body filler and all that.
So it works great for that.
Now I'm going to put this on the same way
I would any other type of filler.
Whether you mix it or this system it would be the same.
But I am going to apply it using a tight coat where
I push down real hard.
And I'm putting a lot of pressure on the spreader here.
And then followed by that I'm going
to use a fill coat where let up.
Now I'm not putting this on real thick.
You shouldn't have any lows at this point.
This is more just for maybe pinholes, real minor things,
the layers of paint, to help level all that.
But I do want to cover the entire surface.
If you have a spot where you've missed,
you didn't get a little bit of the putty in a certain area,
it really makes it more difficult
when you're sanding, because you've
got to feather that entire area around that
did not get covered.
So make sure everything is covered.
Another thing, whenever applying make sure
you don't get trash in it.
Right there you see I got some.
If you do, get it out, because you
don't want to leave those drag marks in there like you
can get from trash.
Because that's just going to cause a lot more
work for you when you go to sanding.
So you'll basically have to sand all that out and feather around
that area.
I use a new spreader on these final coats
just to make sure I don't have those marks.
Because usually if you dragged a piece of trash
down the whole area, you can have
to sand down to the bottom of that.
Another thing I'm doing here is I've
kind of feathered in the edges of the putty.
And this will really reduce the amount
of sanding I have to do when I try to feather the edges in.
Now I'll allow that to dry.
And with putty you really don't want to try to sand
it in the green state like I talked about
in the body filler stages.
I'm going to let it fully dry.
And then I'm going to cross sand using 80 grit to start with,
but notice with this block I'm not
going way out past the edges trying
to feather the edges in yet, because I don't want
80-grit scratches all in the paint surface.
Once it feels level-- you don't want
to sand too much off, just enough to get it level.
And then I'm going to switch to 150 grit.
And then I can start cross standing the edges,
making sure that they're feathered into the paint
correctly.
So before I do that I'm going to apply some guide coat.
Now this is a spray guide coat.
There's also a dry form.
This helps identify lows or any pinholes
or any types of problems that may be there.
So I'm going to spray that on before I continue blocking.
And now I'm going to switch to the 150 grit
and still using that cross sanding motion.
Notice there is some guide coat left there.
That's what it's doing.
It's doing its job.
It's identifying itself.
So I know there's something there.
Now it may stand out, but I don't
want to sit there and try to dig that out or make sure
that I sand that out, because that might actually
sand a low in that area.
I'm just going to continue sanding, keeping
the block flat, level, and standing in cross motion,
featheredging my edges in here.
So I'm working on the edges, and if it sands out
in the process, which it did on this one, then fine.
And if it didn't, leave it there because you're probably
going to have to add some more to get that out.
So now I'm just continue going around making
sure all the edges are smooth, make a smooth transition
to the paint surface.
Check your progress often.
Use the flat of your hand just to make sure everything's
going the way that you want it to go.
You'd be surprised what you think you can see sometimes,
but when you feel it that's where you can really
feel if there's a wave or something that you
need to sand out.
Another tip, be sure and always keep your block clean.
It will make the sandpaper last a lot longer.
Just like there I was using a scuff pad.
Every once in a while you need to hit it,
the sandpaper, with a scuff pad, and that
will clean the product off, the putty coat.
So anyway, once it feels good, it's sanded out with 150,
your edges feel smooth, now you're
ready to move on to their priming stages.
OK, that covers this lesson on glaze putty.
In the first video we showed you how to repair the dent, then
how to apply and sand body filler,
and now how to apply and sand the putty.
Now the repair is finished out to 150.
It all feels good and feathers into the paint good.
There's no edges.
You can't feel any highs or lows.
And traditionally that's where the body shop ends
and the paint shop begins from that point.
Now every shop does things a little bit different.
Some may have the body guy do a little more or a little less
and the paint shop do more or less.
That's nothing set in stone.
But that's just an idea and kind of going by those P-Pages
to make that dividing the line of what's body shop
and what's paint.
But there's really no wrong way or right way as long
as the job's being done right.
Well, I hope you enjoyed this lesson on putty,
and if you did, be sure and go down here and give us a like.
Leave us a comment.
Tell us how you do it.
You work at a shop?
Where does the body shop responsibilities end
at your shop and where does the painting steps begin?
I know there's a variety of ways.
I always like learning new things from you, the YouTube.
I've learned a lot as well from these videos,
because y'all leave me a lot of useful feedback and comments
and things for me to think about.
And I really appreciate that.
So be sure and leave us a comment,
whether you have a suggestion the way you do it,
the way your shop does it, or if you have questions.
Maybe you're doing a car at your shop or at your garage
and you have some questions about this.
Feel free to leave us a question, comment, suggestion.
Because we can all learn from each other.
And remember, if something's worth doing, do your best,
and have a blast doing it.
Thanks for watching.
We'll talk to you in the next video.