(logo booms)
- Hey, what's up guys?
Joey here, Chemical Guys Detail Garage.
Today in the shop we have this black 2014 Nissan Rogue
and this paint is absolutely trashed.
The paint is filthy, it's contaminated,
it's scratched and swirled up
so we want to go ahead and use this car
as kind of a demo project.
We want to go ahead and utilize it
so that we can show you guys
the full step-by-step process
in order, you know, to wash your car,
clay your car, decontaminate it.
We're gonna go ahead and show you the full paint correction
which, you know, choice of pad, chemical
either compound or polish
and type of machine that we're gonna use
and get this ride back to its original glory.
So to start off this process
just like you do with any other car,
we're gonna go ahead and start off by
washing the car first.
So we're gonna be washing it with one simple product
and that is Clean Slate Surface Cleanser.
This soap right here
is designed to specifically breakdown layers of grime,
residue, and oils such as waxes, sealants and glazes
that are on the paint so that
when we go for a paint correction
or when we go to inspect our paint
it's not gonna interfere with our results
and we're gonna see the paint for what it truly is.
All right, so to begin this wash
we're gonna go ahead and utilize our two bucket method
and I wanna show you guys
what the two bucket method really is.
So pretty much what that means is
we got two buckets here filled with water,
we have two dirt traps here
which are gonna go at the bottom of these buckets.
What a dirt trap is you may ask,
a dirt trap is a filtration system so pretty much
you'll see that on one side you have a lot of big holes,
on the backside the holes are much tighter.
So pretty much when you set this up
at the bottom of your bucket
it creates a suction so that any dirt and grime
that falls into it or within it, through it,
it's gonna keep it towards the bottom so it doesn't get
back into your wash water
so you're not going back and forth
from your car to your bucket with that same dirt
that you're taking off of the paint into your bucket
going back and forth and scratching it all up.
It's kind of redundant to wash a car that way
because then you're just gonna be, you know,
washing your car with the same dirty water
that you're using it to wash with.
So what you wanna do with these is
you don't wanna put them in
and then fill up your bucket with water,
you first wanna fill up your bucket with water
and then put them in.
The reason for that is because, like I said,
it creates a suction towards the bottom
so it's not gonna create that suction
if you don't set it down properly.
So now that my bucket here is filled with water,
you want to dunk it at an angle
and once it gets toward the bottom
you're simply gonna lay it flat,
push it down, and that's gonna go ahead
and give it that airtight seal.
Now you wanna go ahead and get your other one,
same thing, put it all toward the bottom,
push it down and you're good.
All right so now that our wash buckets are done
we're gonna go ahead and dedicate my red one
just 'cause I'm a big fan of red
so I'm gonna use that one as my soap bucket.
And my soap is gonna be Clean Slate like I mentioned.
Clean Slate is gonna go ahead
and strip off any kind of protective coating
such as wax, sealants, glazes that are on the paint
so that when we go for the paint correction
and we inspect the paint
it's not gonna interfere with our results.
So what you wanna do is
you're gonna go ahead and open up the spout,
one good squirt, two good squirt and that's it.
That's more than enough product that you need
to go ahead and wash this vehicle.
So now that my soap bucket is filled
now I'm gonna go ahead and fill up my foam cannon
which has already been prefilled with water
and all I'm gonna do is put about, same thing,
two squirts in my foam cannon
and that's gonna be equivalent to about
one to two ounces of soap
which is more than enough to get my foam cannon foamy
and get that nice thick layer of suds on this car.
All right, so now that everything's set up
the last thing that we're gonna go ahead and do
is get our chenille microfiber wash mit
and I like to go ahead and pre-saturate it
by putting it in my soap bucket
just so it kinda grabs the soap
and it grabs the product so that when we
go ahead and wipe on the vehicle,
we don't get like that dry, raspy kind of rub.
We get a nice lubricating gentle wash.
Now I'm gonna go ahead and get my TORQ Snubby
and we're gonna go ahead and turn on the pressure washer
and we're gonna go ahead and give this car
a pre-rinse just to knock down any kind of loose dirt,
debris, grime that's sitting on the paint
because we wanna make sure that we get
as much of a filtered wash as possible.
We don't want to have all that loose dirt on there
when we do our first wipe.
We wanna knock off as much of that as we can
so that we don't cause any potential scratches
or, you know, swirl marks.
(machine whirring)
All right guys, so now that we're done
rinsing the car we're gonna go ahead
and prep for our foam cannon.
So we're gonna go ahead and take off
our pressure washer tip.
And we're gonna get our foam cannon
which we already threw soap in there
and we're gonna just mix it up.
You don't wanna shake it,
you don't wanna, you know, shake it crazy
you just wanna go ahead and stir it
so that the product gets mixed in with the water.
You don't want the soap to go ahead
and foam up inside the foam cannon
because it's not gonna give you that thick rich suds.
So now that we're done,
we'll go ahead and connect that.
Well go ahead and throw this on highest foam setting
and we're gonna foam up this car
and we're gonna let it lather for a few seconds
before we start going with our contact wash.
(machine whirring)
So now that we foamed up the car,
me personally I like to let the foam
kinda lather a bit just because
we are in a shaded environment
I'm gonna let that Clean Slate do its job
at breaking off those waxes, sealants
and any kind of glazes that are on the paint.
I usually let it sit for about 35 seconds
up to a minute before I start going with my contact wash.
So now that the soaps pretty much fairly all run down,
I'm gonna go ahead and get my wash mit
which has already been pre-saturated in my soap bucket
and I'm gonna show you guys a proper wash technique
to wash your vehicle.
You wanna go ahead and start off at the top of the car
and you wanna work in straight motions,
you never want to go in a circular motion
because if anything gets caught on your wash mit
you can potentially kind of mimic that swirl mark
and swirl around the whole car.
So remember, clean swipes.
You go from top to bottom.
You can go ahead and do the middle on the top of the car.
Just make sure you get a nice spread
and make sure to get all these areas as well
underneath the windshield wiper.
And then what you wanna do is
once you've done a good coverage
or a good amount of sections,
you wring that out,
you go into your rinse bucket
and you're gonna go ahead and kinda push this
toward the bottom and kinda rub the surface
that you were wiping with towards the bottom
so that it kinda knocks it off the chenille noodles
and it pushes down into the funnels of the dirt trap
so it stays under there, it doesn't get back up,
and it doesn't get back onto my wash mit
so that I don't bring that same dirt
and, you know, grime from my bucket from the paint
back onto the car.
Wring it out.
And then back to your soap bucket.
Make sure you get a nice coverage,
get it nice and lubricated.
And then I'm gonna go ahead and do the hood, same thing,
straight motions, you're gonna go from top to bottom.
This is just to prevent any kind of grime
that's on the bottom of the vehicle
and prevent it from coming to the top.
Another cool thing I like to do is
this wash mit does have two sides,
you do have the side that I just wiped with
and you have the other side.
Not a lot of people do this but you can flip
your wash mit to the other side
and do another section of the vehicle
without having to come back and rinse it
and back to your soap bucket
'cause I know it does get kinda repetitive
but the better filtered of a wash
the safer, you know, the wash you're gonna get
and the less of a chance you're gonna introduce
scratches and swirls to the paint.
Just like that with one wash mit,
two sides, I did the whole hood.
Come back, wring it out.
Back into my rinse bucket.
Remember kinda scrub that towards the bottom
where the dirt trap is to knock off all the dirt
from the chenille noodles.
Wring that out out the bucket.
And then back into your soap bucket.
I'm gonna go ahead and finish off the rest of this vehicle
and we'll be back once we're done.
One thing I did forget to mention is
I usually wait towards the end of my car wash
once I've already cleaned the top
and the middle parts of the vehicle
to do the lower parts of the vehicle
because as you can imagine,
the lower parts of your vehicle is pretty much
what gets the grimiest because you have your wheels,
you know that spinning all that brake dust,
grime, all that filth that you drive through,
and it gets a little bit more grimy there
which requires a little bit more lubrication
and I don't really like to cross-contaminate
as far as like my regular wash mit
that I use for the body and the top parts of the vehicle
with a lower, you know, parts of the vehicle.
So I dedicate a separate wash mit for those areas,
like the lower areas.
I usually use a blue one
and like I said I usually wait to do this
towards the end of the car wash
because my bucket that I've utilized
for my two bucket method on the vehicle,
I've already pretty much used it to clean the top portion
and now I'm gonna just use it to clean the bottom portion
so that once I'm done I'm just gonna rinse out
my buckets, get rid of any kind of heavy grime
that was below there and I got myself a brand new bucket
and I don't have to worry about it
cross-contaminating in my future.
So now that we're done wiping down the car,
we're gonna go ahead and pressure wash it off
just to make sure that any kind of loose grime
gets fully knocked off with the pressure washer
and to rinse off any kind of remaining
residue of the soap.
(machine whirring)
All right, so now that we're done rinsing the vehicle
we're gonna go ahead and precede to the drying process.
To do that we're gonna be using our
gray waffle-weave drying towel.
I love using this towel because it's built like a waffle.
It has funnels and pores where the water get entrapped
kind of like a waffle traps syrup in it
to soak up the water and easily dry your vehicle.
We're gonna go ahead and dry it
and then we're gonna go ahead and pull the car inside
to inspect the paint for what it truly is
so we can determine what type of clay bar,
what type of polish, machine, pad
we're gonna end up having to use
to correct this paint.
All right guys, and we're back.
So we finally got the Nissan Rogue
pulled into the detail garage
now we're gonna go ahead and inspect the paint.
We're gonna go ahead and use our Ultra Bright Mini
which we're gonna go ahead and use to inspect the paint
so that we can truly see what's in there.
So far I've already seen scratches, swirls,
water spots, I've seen scuff marks,
I've seen minor spots of oxidation.
So now we're gonna go ahead and teach you guys
the next step in this process
which is decontaminating your paint
using a clay bar.
Clay bar are designed to decontaminate your paint job
from surface contamination and embedded contamination.
So when you don't wash your car for a long time,
dirt, grime, industrial fallout tend to stick go ahead
and stick to the surface
which can kinda sound like a raspy feeling
or even feel like a raspy feeling on your paint.
In front of me we have Clay Luber.
Clay Luber is a synthetic lubricant
designed for you to use with a synthetic clay bar
such as a disk or a block or a traditional clay bar.
What this does is it leaves a nice lubricated surface
so that you can easily glide left to right
with your clay bar so that you reduce
or avoid scratching, marring
or causing any damage to the paint.
So you'll see that there's
four different grades of clay bar.
We have a light, an original, a medium, and a heavy.
So what does this mean?
A light clay bar is designed for light contamination
such as for newer cars or well maintained cars
and that's gonna allow you to easily
just glide over the paint
and remove light amounts of contamination.
Second you have an OG which is a mixture
between a light and a medium.
So if your car is on a newer side
but you're not too sure
and it does feel a little bit raspy,
then the OG clay bar is the right one for you.
The medium clay bar is gonna go ahead and remove
light to heavy, kind of a balance
between the two continuations so that
if you have a newer car or an older car
that has heavy contamination
you can go ahead and use a medium clay bar
to go ahead and cut through that nice and quickly
without, you know, much effort.
And the last one is gonna be heavy clay bar.
The heavy clay bar is designed to remove
heavy contamination such as old neglected paint
such as you know 90s cars that had never been clayed before
or if you have over spray
so if your car has been to a body shop
and you got over spray on the side of your vehicle,
glass, all that, that's gonna go ahead and, you know,
knock off that contamination quickly and easily
with using the heavy clay bar.
So upon further inspection of the paint,
we felt the paint, it sounds very raspy.
I thought that the medium clay bar
would probably be the best fit
seeing to as that this is a more of
a newer/not so oldish car.
It's a 2014 so the paint is in a decent condition
so that's why I'm using the medium clay bar
as my go to choice to go ahead
and remove contamination on this paint.
So when you use a medium clay bar
it usually comes in a block,
don't use the whole thing,
cut yourself off a chunk,
morph it into like a little ball
and then knead into like a little patty
such as like you see right here.
So that if this falls onto the floor
you can go ahead and toss that out
and get a different bar.
I see many instances where people grab the whole bar,
they go to do the section of the car
and then it just falls on the floor
and boom don't have a clay bar
you gotta go buy yourself a new one
because this clay bar is like a piece of gum.
If you drop it on the floor
it's gonna collect rocks, fine debris,
dirt that can potentially scratch your paint
and that's something you don't wanna do
especially when you're getting ready for a paint correction.
So now that we have our Clay Luber
and our clay bar ready,
you'll go ahead and see if you feel the paint
it sounds very raspy, it sounds very rough,
and you don't want your paint to sound like that.
If your paint sounds like that
you need to go ahead and clay it
because you have to remove that level of contamination.
So to use a clay bar,
you're simply gonna go ahead and grab your clay lubricant,
your clay bar, and you're gonna saturate the area nicely.
And don't be stingy with the product,
spray a generous amount because the more you spray,
the more lubrication that you have,
the easier it's gonna be
and the more you have to avoid
scratches, swirls, and marring.
So you also wanna go ahead and spray your clay bar
and then you're just gonna simply with no pressure
all I'm doing is kind of, you know,
holding it down with my fingers,
go up and down and left and right.
And if in the first instance
you're gonna go ahead and hear kinda like
a rough, raspy feeling,
that's okay because you're pulling off the contamination.
So it does sound nasty,
it does sound like you're scratching the paint
but in reality all you're doing
is pulling off that level of contamination.
And you can always spray more as needed.
I like spraying a generous amount
just because I don't wanna mar the surface,
I don't wanna scratch the surface,
and it makes my life easier
to just go ahead and glide left and right.
So I'm gonna go ahead and wrap up
this little two by two section.
Make sure you work in two by two sections,
don't spray like half the hood
and then try to do it because
as soon as you get the top half
most likely the product dried up already
and you just wasted product for no reason.
So now that we've done this little section,
I'll show you guys the clay bar.
You'll see right there it's like brown,
contaminated, you have a lot of fallout,
dirt, grime, that's embedded into the paint.
And since it's a black car
you don't necessarily see it firsthand
but it is shown when you go ahead and clay bar the surface.
I'm gonna set that down in the plastic
so that it doesn't get any dirt or grime,
grab a soft microfiber towel.
Dry the area that you are working in.
Fully dry it and make sure you wipe off all the lubricant
and then you feel your paint.
You don't hear anything
because it's a nice glass smooth surface.
All right guys, so now that I showed you
in this little two by two section,
you guys know how to do it, it's very easy.
Just make sure you spray a generous amount
of your clay lubricant and be gentle with the clay bar.
If you drop it, remember, toss it out.
Join us on our next video
where we go ahead and show you guys
which compound or polish, choice of machine and pad
in order to use to remove these level scratches and swirls.
So make sure you stay tuned for that one.
My name is Joey,
this is Chemical Guys Detail Garage
and we'll see you guys next time.
(upbeat music)