Hi, I'm Vance and welcome to Repair and Replace.
In this episode we're going to
replace the diaphragm in a Delta Tech II sensor flushometer.
This applies to both urinals and water closets
as the models are nearly identical except for the spud diameter and size.
To begin, you'll need a diaphragm, a flat blade
screwdriver, a Phillips screwdriver, an
eight point star bit or number three
Robertson screwdriver, locking pliers, an adjustable wrench and duct tape.
Flushometers are also known as flush valves
but function quite differently from the flush valves found in residential toilets.
In a Delta Tech II, a flexible rubber diaphragm sits between the upper and lower chambers.
At rest, high pressure water in the upper
chamber keeps the diaphragm closed tightly on the valve seat.
When the sensor is activated, the solenoid
valve opens and releases water from the upper chamber.
This creates a vacuum which lifts the diaphragm up from the valve seat.
The water from the inlet then travels down the flush pipe.
As the water flows, some of the water slowly
travels through the bypass and will eventually fill the upper chamber.
The flush will continue until the pressure pushes the diaphragm down once again.
If the diaphragm wears down, it can
cause continuous flushing if it fails to seal properly on the valve.
Alternatively, if the diaphragm sticks
to the valve, it can prevent the unit from flushing any water.
First, shut off the water to the flushometer.
Remove the cap and use a flat blade
screwdriver to turn the screw clockwise until the inlet stop closes.
Next, press the manual override button to help drain the remaining water.
Remove the cover screws using an
eight point star bit or a number three Robertson screwdriver.
Now, remove the cover.
Take off the plastic cap and remove the button.
Now, disconnect the sensor wires from the solenoid.
Slide the sensor housing up and over the solenoid and set aside.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew and remove the cast cap.
Next, remove the diaphragm guide assembly.
If you're replacing the entire assembly you can skip the next step.
To replace the diaphragm, you'll have to separate it from the guide assembly.
First, remove the poppet pin and set it aside.
Since the assembly is threaded together, it might be a little tricky to unscrew.
First, take some duct tape and wrap it around the shank to protect it.
Use a bench vise or locking pliers to secure the assembly.
Now, use an adjustable wrench to grip onto one of the tabs of the brass piece.
Turn counterclockwise and unscrew the pieces.
Separate and discard the old diaphragm.
Align the new diaphragm so that the top is facing you.
The top will say "this side up".
Now, drop the top piece through the hole.
Next, align the washer on the bottom piece and screw the assembly together.
Use the adjustable wrench to tighten the pieces together.
Now, remove the tape from the shank and replace the poppet pin.
Replace the diaphragm assembly and make sure
the four screw holes and the two holes on the upper chamber are aligned.
Now, place the cast cap over top with the regulating screw on the same side as the inlet.
Next, tighten the mounting screws.
Now, place the cover gasket on top.
Slide the sensor housing over top of the solenoid and align the screw holes.
Reconnect the wires to the solenoid by matching the color of each wire.
Now, tuck the wires neatly inside the housing.
Next, replace the button and plastic cap.
Replace the cover and tighten the cover screws.
Open the shut-off valve and replace the cap.
Finally, test the flushometer and check for any leaks.
The first flush will remove all the air from the system.
The second flush should function as normal.
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