John Talley here with partzilla.com. Today we're going to show you how to change out
the air filter on our 2008 Honda CBR600 RR. Pretty simple procedure, starts by just getting
this tank cover out of the way, so let's get started.
First thing we're just going to get the seat off. I believe we're just using a 5mm Allen
to get that done. These little plastic rivets in the back--
they actually unscrew and then lift out. It just takes a really light touch.
Next there's just a 5mm on either side in that same location.
Alright guys, with the tank cover out of the way the only thing we need to get removed
is this IAT sensor. And we want to go ahead and unscrew this little bar that's holding
the ECM in place. But you don't want to disconnect it. This won't be the last time you'll be
in here working or looking at the air filter-- which you should do about the same time that
you do an oil change with it. You at least want to go in there and take a look at it
and make sure it's not got any debris in it. But you don't want to be plugging and unplugging
the ECM over and over again because these little connectors? They really don't like
that. So you just want to move it up and out of the way.
Next, you just have a few Phillips head screws going around the perimeter of the top of the
cover. Make sure that your intake air temperature sensor is unplugged.
Swing the ECU out of the way, take off that upper cover.
We've got a little surprise in here guys. You can't see it yet, but this particular
machine has a very nice K&N filter in it. Real high flow, and these can actually be
cleaned up, re-oiled and then reused. So guess what? I think I'm going to go that
way once I get it out and evaluate it. Basically, it's got a metal bracket that sandwiches
it in place, and it's using the same two screws that hold the regular stock one in place.
That filter really looks nice. IT obviously had not been in here very long.
Here's that metal piece I was talking about that actually sits on top of it and holds
it in place like that. That more or less duplicates the way the factory one mounted in there.
Alright, so what we're going to do next is carry this over to the teardown bench and
I'm going to show you how to clean it up even though this one really doesn't need cleaning
to tell you the truth, but we're going to go ahead and show you the process in case
yours does. So let's jump over to the teardown bench and
I'll show you how to get it done. Alright guys, here's what we're going to use
to get this cleaned up. But I do want to state just starting straight out: do not try to
do this with your OEM filter. It was not designed to be cleaned. You could just blow it out
if you wanted to with some compressed air, but you do not need to use chemicals as it
would just destroy this filter element. The K&N on the other hand-- it is designed
to be cleaned and re-used. They've got a couple of good products to get
that done. What you need to do first is get it cleaned
with a cleaner spray, and you can use this on the fabric or the foam type filters.
You just want to shake it up pretty well, and we're going to spray down both sides.
Let it soak in for about 15 minutes, and then we're actually going to take it outside and
just use water to clean it out. Once we do that, we just want to let it air
dry. don't try to rush it and use the compressor to start blowing it through there because
you can actually damage your filter if you do that.
Now we just need to get the filter oiled, and you want to make very sure with this fabric-type
filter that you use the right type of fabric oil, because they actually make one for the
foam as well and you would not want to use that on this particular filter.
So, we just need to get this shook up, and we're going to spray both sides as evenly
as we can. We're just getting an even coat.
Don't get too carried away getting it sprayed down. If you do, it's not the end of the world.
It would just make your machine run a little rich-- maybe even smoke for a little bit while
it pulls that excess through. Just getting the edges cleaned up.
And really, that's all there is to it. So now, installation is just the reverse of
what we did when we took it apart. So let's get this bench out of the way and
get it reinstalled. When you put in the filter, make sure it goes
all the way down at the bottom. You'll see some tabs that it needs to fit into.
And rule of thumb is: if you have to force the top section in, you don't have it aligned
correctly. When you get it aligned properly, these upper
screws are really easy to put in. Next, we just need to get on the upper airbox
cover. It's just got six of those Phillips screws.
Alright, with those six in we're about to put in that little bracket that holds the
ECU. It is directional, so you want that edge to be facing up.
Like that. Now, don't forget to plug in your intake air
temperature sensor. Because guess what? Yes, it'll crank up, but it's going to give you
a check engine light if you forget to plug that in.
Alright, with everything secure, all we need to do now is just bring over the fuel tank
cover and get it bolted back down. Alright, before you put this back on, make
sure you haven't lost any of your little washers and grommets. Make sure they're still in place.
When you're pushing it down, make sure your lower cowlings or fairings where they don't
get hit. Then, also make sure you've got it centered on that gasket or the seal that surrounds
the fuel tank filler and then just push down. Alright, at the rear of the tank, you've got
another one of those washer-slash little grommets that goes in there.
Next, get these little push pins in that hold in that plastic flap at the front.
Now that outer fairing, actually there's a couple of points that need to slide in right
here at the front and then pop it in place like that.
Don't forget these little plastic screw type rivets back at the back on top. You can just
push those in. Alright guys, well that about wraps this little
project up. Listen, you need to go in and inspect the
air filter about every 8000 miles unless you actually ride in an environment where there's
a lot of dust, dirt, whatnot. Most people don't ride down dirt roads, I
know a few of you do. If that's the case, you need to get in there and check it at least
every 4000 miles. Listen, if you need any of the parts we used
to do this little project, come see us at partzilla.com. If there was something I did
that you couldn't see or have a question as to why I was doing it that way or not, leave
it in the comments section and I'll do my best to answer it.
Until next time, we just want to say thank you for watching.