The palm of the hand is the essential tool
for getting this painting technique just right.
Rogan art is a centuries old craft,
and it's been in Abdul Gaffur Khatri's family
for eight generations.
These designs were once popular throughout India,
but the rise of industrial textiles forced many artisans
to leave the craft for more lucrative work.
Today, the Khatri family members say they're the only
Rogan artists left in the world.
But the COVID-19 pandemic is now threatening their business.
We take a look at how one family
has left this tradition still standing.
It all starts with castor oil.
It's the base of the paint.
And it's what gives the art its name.
Rogan means oil in Farsi.
Gaffur's cousin, Muhammad, heats the oil for two days
until it becomes a honey-like texture.
It's a dangerous process only a few can handle.
Once it's cooled, Gaffur's nephew, Jabbar,
combines it with pigment to create the paint.
Then it's time to paint.
Gaffur says it's the use of the hand that gives Rogan art
its unique quality.
Swirling the paint into his palm
creates heat to thin it out.
Then, Gaffur floats the thread of paint over the fabric
using a metal rod.
He runs his other hand underneath the cloth
to guide the paint.
He has an idea of the final design in his mind,
but the painting process is completely freehand.
Before it dries, Gaffur folds the cloth
to print the design's mirror image.
He can finish some pieces in five days,
while more complex designs can take him up to two years.
Wall art pieces like this one can cost over $1,000.
Gaffur and his family normally
sell their pieces to tourists
but the pandemic put a strain on their peak season.
The struggle feels familiar.
The art is said to have come to India from Persia
400 years ago, and it was once popular on bedding
and ceremonial clothing here in India.
But with the rise of mass-produced
textiles in the '80s,
locals lost interest in these more expensive
handmade pieces.
Many artisans couldn't compete with mass manufacturers
and dropped their crafts to find other work.
Gaffur too made the hard decision to leave
the family business and look for work in Mumbai.
But a sense of responsibility and a plea from his family
brought him back.
Since then, Gaffur has brought Rogan art
to the international level.
He's earned over 10 awards for his work,
and India's Prime Minister gifted one of his pieces
to president Barack Obama in 2014.
And just as Gaffur learned from his elders,
now his nephew is determined
to carry on the legacy.
He's committed to preserving Rogan art
through education and social media.
Before the pandemic, the Khatri family ran workshops.
Since 2010, they've trained around 300 women
and 20 of them went on to work for the family.
But when COVID-19 started to spread in March,
business slowed and Gaffur couldn't afford
to keep them employed.
Still, the family stays relevant with new products
like face masks, and they have big plans
to expand the business.
Though sales might be slow until tourists
can start visiting again,
Gaffur believes he knows what it takes to be successful.