Hi, John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today we're going to be working on our 2007 Honda
TRX400EX, specifically the brake calipers. What we're looking at is this front right
one has developed a leak and it's not coming from the hose so that tells me it's probably
the seals on the inside. So what we're gonna do is remove the caliper, pull it apart, take
a look at the bore and the seals and the piston to see if we can rebuild this one with a new
set of seals or if the entire thing needs to be replaced. So let's get started.
Ok, step number one is to go ahead and drain the system of all the brake fluid that's in there,
which I've already done. Fairly simple procedure; get your length of hose, put it on the bleeder
valve, open up the valve, and just start pumping away. We're just trying to get all the fluid
out of it. Makes it a lot easier when you're ready to pull it apart. Otherwise, everything
gets slippery and it's not a lot of fun to deal with. Alright, step number one, or two
as it is, is to go ahead and remove the caps that cover up the pins that the brake pads
ride on inside the caliper. Under the caps are going to be a couple of 5mm allens, and
the reason I'm doing it out here is the carrier holds the caliper in place instead of trying
to do this on the teardown bench, which can be a littlet awkward. You don't want to pull
the pins all the way out. Just go to the edge of the threads, but leave them in there. Next
you want to pull this little dust cover for the slider pin. And it is a 6mm allen. Same
thing, you just want to back it out but don't remove it all the way. About right there.
Next, we want to go ahead and remove the output hose which runs up to our master cylinder
with a 12mm wrench. That's actually a banjo bolt. You want to be careful not to lose the
two crush washers that are here and here. Alright, last but not least, we want to remove
the two 12mm bolts that attach the bracket to the hub. And once we get those two out,
we can take it over to our teardown bench and I'll show you how to remove the piston
and we'll take a look at the bore and the seals to see if it can be rebuilt or replaced.
A couple more turns... and then off she comes. So let's head over to the teardown bench. Alright, now that we've
got it off the machine, here's what I was talking about:that slider pin was right here
and now we've got it disconnected so all we need to do is rotate the bracket up and then
just slide it out. Alright, our other pins are loose so we can push down and remove them.
Now we can remove the brake pads. And that exposes our piston inside the caliper. To
remove that, what we're going to do is take a shop towel and just lay it down in the cavity,
like that. Get a little bit of compressed air, just cups your hands over it. Pow! Doesn't
take much pressure; I didn't put a whole lot on that. But that will pop the piston out.
And now we need to carefully bring it up because there isn't a lot of clearance there. Alright,
once it pops out, go ahead and remove your shop towel and then just wiggle it the rest
of the way out. Just like that. Alright, what you're going to see inside is an outer dust
seal, which we're going to remove, and then the inner seal, which holds back all that
hydraulic fluid and pressure. Alright, from here we're going to go ahead and clean it
out, dry it off. Alright, we have the caliper cleaned out, everything's looking good, I
don't see any pits in there, so I think we're clear to go ahead and replace the seals. Here
are the two seals that we're going to need, and this is going to be the part number that
you're going to need to contact us about at Partzilla.com. Fairly simple to do, we're
just going in reverse of what I did earlier. Want to go ahead and put in the actual caliper
seal first, make sure it goes in flush. Don't want it to be bound up or rotated in there.
That looks good. Next, we just want to get in the dust seal. Of course it goes to the
outside. Get it in the groove and work it around, like so. Now they're both in place.
Alright, now with our piston seal and our dust seal in place, we just need to coat both
of those down with some brake fluid. Doesn't take a lot. Then go ahead and coat down our
piston. And then we need to slide the piston in place. With brand new seals you're going
to have to put a fair amount of pressure to get it to pop in. There ya go. Alright, from
here we want to go ahead and put on our bracket, and what you want to make note of is this
little washer is actually concave, so it's going this direction. So we want that facing
toward the bracket. Be careful to not damage your upper seal. Alright, at this point you
want to just get it a little over hand tight and we'll do the final torque once it's on
the machine. Just enough to hold it together. From here, we want to go ahead and get our
pads in place. Make sure your shim is on. Go ahead and put your pins through. Keep in
mind there's a spring down there so you're going to have to push down on them to get
it to go through. Once again, you don't have to get them but hand tight. Because, like
I said, we're going to do the final torque with it on the machine. The machine does a
lot better job of holding it than I do out here on the teardown bench. Spread open the
pads, and now she's ready to go. So, let's head over to the machine. Alright, let's get
our caliper mounted back to the machine. You want to make sure that you have your brake
pads spread apart so they'll clear over the rotor. Just slider her into place, then you
just have your two 12mm bolts that mount the carrier to the plate. It can be a little tricky
to get them lined up, especially that first one. Then get that one in the bottom. Alright,
it's time to get our hose back on. Remember to have your crush washers in there, one at
the bottom and one at the top. Like so. Once again, not too tight. It's important now to
go back and get all your pins tightened down, because remember they were just hand-tight
before. And that slider. Get your dust cap back in place, that way you'll keep all the
dirt and water out of that pin. Then replace our caps. Now with everything snug down, all
that's left is just to bleed the brakes. Pretty simple procedure; fill up your reservoir;
go through the process of opening and closing your bleeder valve, and be sure you get ALL
the air out of it, and then do the other side as well. If you have any air it's going to
be spongy and they're not going to respond the way they should, so be sure you get all
the air out of the system. Well, that's it for this video. If you have any questions
or comments just leave them below and I'll do my best to answer them. And if you need
any of these products or parts, come see us at Partzilla.com. Thank you!