A few subscribers a while ago were like, Yo bro, you need to review the Imalent DT70.
You're like oh, Is imalent the flashlight with the screens?
Yeah they're the ones with the screens.
The Dt70 uses 4 Cree XHP70 dedomed cool white emitters, and 4 high drain 18650 batteries.
Its constructed out aerospace grade aluminum, because aircraft grade is for the 99%, has
a type III anodized exterior that is government helicopter black.
It also has a screen to tell you what mode it's on, if it's hot or not, and around what
voltage it is, not exactly what voltage it is, and if signs point to yes.
It comes with the light, a cardboard box, 2 spare orings, a usb cable, 4 high drain
3000 mah batteries, a holster and a manual.
USB charging brick sold separately, and your 401k just dropped.
Youre like USB, how long does it take to charge via USB- check out this handy dandy time lapse
that tells you it takes about 7 hours and 33 mins to charge.
Ending voltage on that charge was about 4.15 volts, which is safe, but not quite the full
4.20 volts.
You can see the battery indicator blinked to show you a basic charge level.
I use a separate charger though for faster charging.
I used the included batteries only for testing and charging purposes.
How about those output levels, glad you asked person not familiar with my flashlight review
formula.
My estimates, and the manufactures appear side by side for someones pleasure, I assume.
First is Low.
Sorry no moonlight or low low in this light.
The X7 and X45 and Meteor have lows.
Then Mid.
Then high.
Then melt your brain turbo.
I read a few other reviews online where the testers estimated in the 13,000 lumen range
too that makes the X45 still my brightest light.
Here is a beam profile because the brightness scales is too big to accurate capture all
modes at a close distance on the white walls.
The user interface, why not I have nothing better to do.
What about you Hey whered you go?
You can operate the light off 1 to four batteries in a pinch.
I would recommend not losing batteries and using all 4 to operate all modes fully.
I did not test what modes work with each amount of batteries, but here's 1 cell with a few
modes.
With each of my reviews taking about 15 hours-20 hours to complete, it's hard to test every
single scenario.
Ok to turn it on hit the right switch with the power indicator.
Quick presses scroll through 80 lumen, 1000, lumen, and 8000 lumen mode.
To turn it off press and hold.
It has mode memory on these three modes only, and will be on the last one of these you used
when you turn it back on.
16000 lumen Turbo and blinking modes are not saved into mode memory no matter how many
goats you sacrifice.
To check voltage tap the left button.
Spoiler alert...
it isn't accurate...
I did run it past the stepdown on turbo once, and shut it off... turned it back on it read
3.8 volts and a 5 minutes later it read 3.94 volts showing the voltage recovery of the
battery.
I then checked each battery with a fluke multimeter, and each read 4.0-4.1 volts.
So the internal voltage check isn't quite as accurate as a good multimeter.
But it also shows voltage recovery in the batteries after a few minutes of resting,
which is normal for lithium ion batteries.
The screen tells you what lumen mode you're on... if it's getting hot with a blinking
triangle, and voltage.
To get to turbo press and hold the left button for more than 2 seconds.
Press and hold the right button to turn it off or press it briefly to enter the sane
brightness levels.
To get into strobes, a popular mode group for goats, double click the left button from
on or off first is tacticalish strobe... said tactical check, then is the seamens favorite...
say it with me SOS... then beacon.
Double clicking each time to go between all strobes.
Also since this light has an electronic switch please unscrew the body slight, so the battery
tube breaks contact with the head to lock it out.
Also one cool thing for people who aren't cool like me, is you can see the voltage sag
and recovery on turbo.
Steve Kluver wanted to see this.
Turn on turbo and every few seconds, click the switch and you can check battery voltage...
you can see it drop with every check...
after a minute of doing this and admiring my smooth hands, go to low mode by pressing
this switch, and when you check battery voltage with quick taps of the left button you can
see the voltage recovering in sort of real time... 16,000 lumens puts a big load... yeah
I said big load... on the batteries.
Now the runtimes.
All runtimes used the included 3000 mah high drain cells.
My lux meter is in the frame for some to show how much the light output drops over the course
of the runtime.
First is turbo man.
My lux meter starting value is 26, let's say 30 seconds in is about 255 which you could
say is my measure output per ANSI standards as 13,200 I measured on turbo.
So approximately about a minute and a half in it drops to about 36 or according to an
internet calculator and not my brain that's 14% of it's initial brightness or an 86% drop,
or about 1800 lumens.
At the end of the first hour we're at 31 or 12% of it's brightness...
at 1 hour and 30 minutes the light hits 10.9% of it's brightness which is technically accurate
as a runtime within the FL1 standards.
Now I know my way isn't scientific because the lux meter sensor is in the spill of the
frame but I do it this way so you can read the meter.
It should at least give you a rough idea of the brightness drop.
At 3 hours and 2 minutes the light cuts off at 8.6 % of it's initial brightness.
Congratulations, that was tough.
By the way right before step down I measured the temperature of the light to be 154F and
140 F about 30 seconds after the stepdown.
High.
High steps down too because the 7000 lumens I measured is still too bright for a light
this small to dissipate.
Let's call the number 205 it's maximum brightness of 7176 lumens it declines some more and at
about 3 minutes in you get a hard ramp down to 25% of it's initial brightness.
Or a 75% drop if you like me restating it a different way to pad my video length.
At 1 hour in we're at 22% of initial brightness on high.
Then at 2 hours we're at 18%.
At 3 hours we're at 12% and it shuts off at 3 hours and 6 minutes.
Ending battery voltage was 2.86 volts ish per battery on runtime tests.
It might have been slightly higher or lower.
Now medium.
Sorry I did not have the lux meter in the frame for this one.
The batteries were dead they're all dead!
But the good news is you get to see more dimming light, as you wonder I thought I'd be further
along in my career at this age.
Or why have I spent 10 minutes watching a flashlight review.
The light dims slowly over the course of 7 hours 37 minutes and light ceases to come
out.
Now the beam shots.
First lets do a scale shot of my backyard.
The lens makes it look a little bigger than it is, but its 120 feet to the bamboo or 36.5
meters.
I know its not the biggest distance in the world- but its what I got.
Thats not a humble brag.
Now here are the lights Ill be comparing.
I have added a lower lumen context light- the 1000 lumens xtar, which is considered
a bright EDC light.
The rest would not be considered EDC lights, theyre hot rod lights.
Think of their burst modes as NOS, as in not meant to be used for too long because the
lights heat up quick.
First the context light.
If you go to Walmart you could probably find a 1000 lumen light, and open mouths.
If you have a 1000 lumen light this is probably what it would look like on video, if you set
your camera to manual like I do.
Now the DT70.
My 2nd brightest light.
It has a cool white tint, and a nice amount of spill and throw.
It heats up fast so you cant use the light for much longer than a few minutes on its
burst mode.
And No the battery voltage indicator doesnt really work in real time.
It still reads 4.20 volts after several minutes of use and I tested the batteries at 4.06
volts on my charger.
Now the Acebeam X45.
This is my favorite of the two (the other being the DT70) lights here, I like the tint
a little better, and I like the UI better.
I have seen people complain about the UI and tint as horrible, and I dont agree with either
assessment.
The X45 is my brightest light and currently the brightest production light available.
Olight and Acebeam are releasing brighter ones later this year in the 20000 lumen range.
The X45 has a wider beam than the DT70 and slightly brighter, but the DT70 will throw
slightly further.
Now the Olight X7.
It used to be my brightest light it is much much floodier overall than the DT70 but uses
similar emitters.
Its cool white, and has a pretty quick step down too.
Back to the DT70 for a few seconds before going to the Thrunite TN36 2017 model, a review
I am currently working on and should be up in a week or two its a brighter version of
the TN36 of last year.
Its very similar to the Olight X7.
Different UI with a variable output- I like it.
Back to the DT70 for a few seconds this is how beam shots work right?
Before moving onto my Noctigon Meteor, which used to be the brightest light ever, and mine
too before all these other lights came along.
It is by far the most compact, and well engineered light though- but now it pales in brightness
when its next to the other lights.
Again most normal people would be happy with a 200-1000 lumen light as the brightest they
would ever need.
The DT70 and these other lights here are for people who have something sort of wrong with
them.
Now and finally my Nitecore TM16GT, its here to illustrate a high lumen, sort of throwy
light.By far the throwiest of all lights here.
Its also the biggest light here because the reflector is bigger.
Ok so now the summation part where I give you some thoughts about the light.
High lumen lights are a specialty thing they generate more light than most people would
need, and can light up a whole back yard much brighter than car headlights or floodlights.
These lights are all considered flooders with maybe the exception of the Nitecore so its
an immense amount of light for a couple hundred feet in front of you.
The Imalent has the honor of being one of the brightest production lights you can currently
buy.
If youre wanting to know which you should get over the X45 the DT70 the Olight X7, well
Going Gear carries them all.
It probably most likely comes down to tint options, and the User Interface The X45 has
a wider spill spreads its lumens out a bit more and the Dt70 focuses them a bit more.
I have reviewed all of these lights so watch the reviews for details on the user interface
and see if it makes sense to you.
I prefer the single button olight and acebeam slightly, because the UIs are very similar.
Some people might prefer the two button scheme of the Imalent a bit better.
The Imalent is a tad more compact than the Acebeam.
The Imalent is waterproof to IPX8 standards meaning using in normal earth weather is fine-
even temporary shallow submersions in water are fine too.
Even if youre skinny dipping.
If you like this light buy it at Going Gear, where you can buy a lot of the lights seen
in this review.
Check out other reviews Ive done, which will pop up on the screen shortly for these other
lights or just like hearing me drown on about some damn thing for about 15 minutes.
Like subscribe comment, and please share with places online more sharing and word of mouth
helps my channel grow.
Thanks for watching.