In this video, we will show you how to assemble the enclosure of Snapmaker Artisan
and put it together with the machine body,
as well as how to connect and organize the cables.
Please notice that there are 2 versions of enclosure for Artisan.
The new version, with extra 1 beam on the top and 2 columns on each side,
can be assembled following this video.
To assemble the old version,
you're recommended to follow the Quick Start Guide that comes with the product.
If you haven't assembled your machine by now,
you're recommended to follow our video tutorial to assemble your machine before moving on to the enclosure part,
and then set up the 3D printing, laser and CNC functions.
If you purchase the 3-in-1 model of Artisan 3D printer,
you will receive 2 packages.
The one labeled "Artisan 3D Printer" includes machine body and 3D printing parts,
while the other with additional "Standard 3-in-1 Addons" contains laser, CNC and enclosure units.
Before you start, prepare a space of at least 1.7 m long, 1.1 m wide, and 0.8 m high for assembly and use.
Also, make sure the load capacity of the plane where you assemble your machine is greater than 65 kg.
Since some parts are weighty, you're suggested to assemble or move your machine with a helper.
In addition, if you want to exhaust gas with the enclosure, make sure the place is convenient for that as well.
When you're ready, open up the box, and take out the following parts and tools:
Heated bed cable, cable collector, green H2.5 hex key, and blue H3.0 hex key from the "Artisan 3D Printer" box,
as well as all the enclosure parts from the "Standard 3-in-1 Addons" box.
If you have already bought and used the machine without the enclosure,
you need to remove the filament holders,
make sure the power is off, and unplug all the cables from the controller before starting.
There are 2 pairs of base fixtures.
The lower fixtures have grooves on the surface, while the upper ones haven't.
And similarly, there are 4 long beams.
2 of them are attached with filament tube fixtures,
and the rest have no feature.
Find the 2 long beams without any feature,
and attach the 2 upper base fixtures to them.
And then put the beams on the plane symmetrically, with the fixtures facing each other.
Attach the profile connectors to every end of the long beams with 4 M5 × 12 screws.
Make sure all the connectors are inside up,
and the alignment tabs of the connectors are inside the beam grooves.
Next, find a beam with 2 pairs of screw holes on its grooves,
and use 2 M5 × 12 screws to attach the beam to the profile connectors that are further away from the base fixtures.
Make sure the closer pair of screws is oriented vertically.
In the same way, install the other short beam without screw holes to complete the bottom frame.
Take out 2 long beams attached with filament tube holders,
and put them as shown,
with the holders at the top.
Use 2 M5 × 12 screws to attach the remaining 2 profile connectors to the rear ends of the long beams,
which are closer to the filament tube holders.
Likewise, the profile connectors should be inside up.
Find another short beam with screw holes,
and attach it to the profile connectors with 2 M5 × 12 screws.
The closer pair of screws on the short beam should be oriented vertically as well.
Next, take out 2 top panels and insert one of them into the top frame.
Make sure the cut corner of the top panel faces the profile connector.
Then find the middle beam,
insert it into the top frame,
with its shorter side up,
and align it with the edge of the top panel.
When finished, install the other top panel,
align it with the middle beam, and ensure the top panel's cut corner faces outwards.
Lastly, find the short beam with profile connectors,
and use 2 M5 × 12 screws to attach it to the front ends of the long beams
to complete the top frame.
As before, the profile connectors are inside up.
After that, connect the two LED strips,
and turn the top frame over.
To make the enclosure air-tight,
you need to fill the gaps between the beams and panels with the sealing strips.
There are 2 types of sealing stripes — narrow and wide.
Here you can cut 2 narrow sealing strips of appropriate length,
and press them into the gap between the middle beam and the 2 top panels respectively.
Make sure the longer side of the strip faces the panel,
and the other faces the beam.
Cut out 6 wide sealing strips of appropriate length,
and fill the remaining gaps.
The top frame is done.
The next step is to install 6 columns and the side panels.
Please keep an eye on the columns' numbers and the installing direction in this part.
Make sure all the alignment tabs of the profile connectors are inserted inside the column grooves.
To make it easier to install the screws,
you can move one of the corners outside the plane or erect the bottom frame.
use 2 M5 × 30 screws to attach the column-1 with hinges to the bottom frame as shown.
Similarly, attach the column-2 with a hall switch to the other corner closer to the base fixtures.
Next, attach the column-3 with an enclosure converter to the same side of column-2,
and attach the column-4 to the last corner.
When finished, check the following features to make sure all the beams and columns are installed correctly.
Find a side panel with the tube holder cutout,
and insert it into the vertical frame.
Make sure the cutout is closer to the rear of the enclosure.
And find a side panel without cutout,
and insert it into the vertical frame,
with the cut corner of the side panel facing the profile connector.
And then, insert the middle column between the two side panels,
with the longer side of the middle column facing outwards.
When finished, install the other side of the enclosure in the same way.
Lift the enclosure to align the tube holders with the cutout on the side panels,
insert the edges of the side panels into the beams' grooves,
and attach the enclosure top to the vertical frame with 8 M5 × 30 screws.
Connect the LED strips and the hall switch to the enclosure converter as follows:
First, connect the hall switch cable on column-2 to the socket above.
Then, connect the other end of the cable to the right socket of the enclosure converter on the column-3.
Lastly, plug the LED strips' 2-pin connector into the left socket.
After that, use 4 M4 × 12 flat head screw to attach the enclosure door to the front, with the door handle facing outwards.
Cut out 2 narrow sealing strips of appropriate length,
and press them into the gaps between the middle column and the side panels.
And then, cut out 7 wide sealing strips of appropriate length and fill the remaining gaps.
When finished, attach the sealing strips to the other side of the enclosure in the same way.
Insert the 2 lower base fixtures underneath the left and the right sides of the base plate.
Lift the enclosure and cover the machine from above.
Find the enclosure cable and insert it into the enclosure converter.
Take out the heated bed cable and the cable collector,
and gather the toolhead cable, the heated bed cable, the enclosure cable and 5 linear module cables with the cable collector.
Next, thread the cables through the corresponding hole of the cable pass-through fixture as shown.
And use 2 M5 × 30 screws to attach the fixture to the rear short beam.
Make sure the 3 yellow locating labels are all underneath the fixture.
Put the labeled face of the exhaust fan against the inside of the back panel's air outlet,
and hold the hose connector to the outside.
Fix them with 4 M4 wing nuts and 4 M4 × 35 screws.
Connect the exhaust fan to the middle socket of the enclosure converter.
Then, cut a suitable length of the cord collecting strip to bury the exhaust fan cord into the column groove.
Use 10 M5 × 16 low head cap screws to attach the back panel to the frame,
with the hose connector outside.
To install the screws, firstly, pre-tighten the 2 screws at the top with the long handle of the hex key,
and hang the back panel on them.
Secondly, pre-tighten the screws near the outermost corners.
Thirdly, pre-tighten the remaining screws.
And lastly, tighten all the screws in the pre-tightening order with the key's short handle.
Loosen the hose clamp,
put the hose in,
and tighten the clamp to secure the hose to the hose connector.
Now the assembly is finished!
Before you connect the cables,
make sure the controller is easy to reach and is convenient for you to use the touchscreen when the door is open.
For example, you can put it at the right side of the enclosure.
Plug the toolhead cable, the enclosure cable, 5 Linear Module cables and the heated bed cable into the controller.
And insert the sealing plugs into all 8 profile connectors.
Finally, connect the upper and lower base fixtures with 2 M5 × 12 screws to lock the relative position of the machine and the enclosure.
That's all for this video.
When you're done,
please watch the 3D printing, laser or CNC assembly tutorial to set up a specific function.