Hello I'm Graham and I hope everyone's having a great day and welcome to the
third part in this video tutorial series for new users to the canon eos m 50
camera incidentally this is a camera that I'm using to record this video clip
at the moment now I've got the 18 to 150 lens on the moment and it's set to 100
millimetres and provide 15 feet away from the camera and the aperture is F
6.3 you can sing you the amount of depth of field between me and the Moors behind
me which are about two miles away so the Moors are nicely out of focus and it's
given me a good isolation between here and the background now today's video is
all around shooting in aperture priority and shutter priority mode or the AV and
TV mode as the known on Canon cameras now the reason you shooting the AV mode
or aperture priority mode is when you want to set an aperture to give them the
amount of depth of field that you create in your image now you might want a very
narrow depth of field if you shoot in something like a portrait or you might
want a very deep depth of field if going to shoot a landscape so we need to use a
small aperture now there are three things which actually govern the amount
of depth of field in an image the first one is obviously the aperture the second
one is the focal length of the lens and the third one is the distance of the
camera to your subject and I'm going to demonstrate all three of those in this
video to give you an idea of the amount of depth of field you can create at
various apertures various focal lengths and various subjects the camera distance
now to change the lens focal length to 150 millimetres
I kept the aperture of the same at F 6.3 and the camera distance the subject is
the same so the only thing that's changed is the focal length you can see
behind me that the blur has increased so using a longer focal length to make the
subject even more isolated against the background so that's one of the tricks
you can use if you want to shoot portraits outside and you want to get a
nice sharp subject against a blurred background use a longer focal length and
try and get the cameras to the subject as you can and then keep
the subject as far away from the background as you can now for the next
test I'm going to move the camera closer but I keep the same aperture and the
same focal length but we're going to move the camera closer so you got a
bigger image but the background will go more out of focus so I'll bring the
camera forward to about half this distance you'll be about seven and a
half feet so here's the shot now with a camera set to the same aperture f six
point three the same focal length 150 millimetres but I've moved the camera
closer so we should be able to get a nice sharp subject against the very
blurred isolating background now the next shot I'm going to be using
a 75 to 300 yes EF lens so I'm going to use the EF to ESM adapter on the camera
she'll be able to set that focal length to 300 from the same distance to shoot
how about the same head and shoulder shot but we should have a much blurrier
background because of the change in focal length so let me set that up and
see what that looks like well in this shot I have set up that EF 70 to 300
millimeter lens using the veal chops AFM 2 adapter which converts the EF lens to
an EOS m mount and gives me the same focal length of the main lens so even
though we use an aps-c sensor which has a normal one point six times crop we are
using the optics in this adapter to give us the same EF equivalence of 300
millimetres so we haven't changed the focal length by using that crop factor
so you can see the same distance of 15 feet I've got the same aperture of f/16
3 the amount of blur behind me is far more than it was with the 150 millimeter
setting with the same subject distance and with the same aperture so that just
goes to show you can use focal length to govern the amount of depth of field as
well as you can use aperture and the distance so I'm not going to change the
aperture from F 6.3 to f-16 I'll probably have to move up my ISO to do
that so it might get a little bit of noise in the image but it's going to
prove that by changing the aperture you'll also change the amount of blur
you're subject well now change the aperture to f-16 and as I thought I've
have to change my ISO to 800 to give me the same exposure so you can see the
amount I'll blow behind me as decreased as we stop down to our 16 so I've shown
you by decrease in your academic in a small aperture you increase the amount
of depth of field it means that blur behind you becomes less now for this
particular shot I've set the lens to 24 millimetres and because setting the lens
to 24 millimetres the aperture goes up to a 5.6 I've stopped it back down to
6.3 to maintain the same aperture for all these tests the camera distance is
the same seven and a half feet but what you're seeing now is myself and the
background are almost equally sharp so by using a wider angle you can get more
depth of field in your shot so this might be something you want if you're on
holiday you don't want to include a portrait against the ambience of the
place you're in so you use a wide-angle setting or a smaller aperture to create
more depth of field but if you're doing an interview outside it's better to use
that longer focal length and a wide aperture to enable you to isolate your
subjects away from your background well in this section we're going to be
looking at shooting in the shutter priority mode all the TV motors it is
known on the Canon cameras and that's enabled by turning the top mode dial
until the TV aligns with the white index mark on the top of the camera no you use
shutter priority mode if you want to take control of how the camera record
subject motion blur so if you're shooting sports you want to be selecting
a very fast shutter speed so that stops any of the subject motion but here in
this section of the video I want to capture a waterfall so I want to create
a long shutter speed to allow us to get that silky smooth water
now I've come to a waterfall here in the Rivington Glen but unfortunately there
hasn't been much rain for the last couple of days so the water flow is very
minimal so I'm only gonna be able to capture a small portion of the water
coming over some rocks rather than the full waterfall there's just not enough
water but it will still demonstrate the same effects of using our slow shutter
speed to enable us to get this silky smooth operation under normal situations
you want to be using something like a half a second or one
second exposure and in order to capture this silky smooth operation now in
daylight you probably having to use a variable ND filter to allow you to get
to those long exposure times but here I'm shooting in the canopy of the forest
and it's almost going just along easily going to achieve a one second exposure I
something like f-16 to enable me to get this depth of field and the amount of
subject motion and blur that I want in this particular shot so what I'm going
to do is set the camera up by the water a set of camera so I can film the back
of it and show you how to enable this long exposure and how you can capture
these solo shots in your video or stills photography so let me set the camera up
and I'll resume in a moment so I've now set up the camera for you so you can
actually see what I'm doing on the back of the screen currently we're shooting
in the program auto mode you can see that by the fact we've got the letter P
on the back of the LCD screen so we're going to go into the shutter priority
mode that means turning the top mode dial until TV aligns with the white
index mark and that's confirmed by the TV appearing on your screen now I've had
to use ISO 800 with the shutter speed set to a quarter quarters probably a
good speed for recording silky smooth water any opportunities on a quarter
half or one second is ideal for this sort of photography so by using a
quarter of a second if I have to press the shutter button you can see that I've
got an aperture of F so that's with ISO 800 there's probably enough depth of
field using this lens and it's currently set to a focal length of about 18
millimeters so this is the 18 to 35 millimeter lens if I wanted to come down
to f/8 then I could afford to drop my ISO so let's go down to f/8 so to do
that I'll just need to drop my ISO so I need to go one stop so I'm going to drop
the ISO from 800 down to 400
so now we've got a quarter of a second left 7.1 which is no enough the F 8 that
I want so let's just take that shot again I'm going to use that two second
timer to record the image and I'm going to focus here on the water which is
where I want most of my action to be so they were captured the first image and
you can see the effect of the water on the screen here and on your TV screen
now the effect of that court at second exposure if I wanted to make this
exposure longer say I wanted to make this a half a second so while I'm
controlling the shutter that's indicated by the brown icon on the shutter wheel
so I'm using the front control dial to change the shutter speed and let's make
that half a second you look at that now the aperture has gone to f11 so if I
wanted to make this still f/8 and I can drop my ISO again so I'm going to drop
my ISO to 200 that one stop press set and then we've got my f8 or F seven
point one with a half a second exposure so let's take that shot you see there's
a lot more blur in the water on this particular shot so it depends on just
how much subject motion blur you want to apply to your picture if wanted to make
this much longer let's go for a one second exposure so again using that
front control down to change the shutter speed the right way so there's a one
second exposure if you look at the aperture at that's gain it's f11 I
wanted that to be f/8 and again drop my ISO I can't just achieve this by going
down to ISO 100 so we should have left 7.1 f/8 with our one second exposure
stair shot again and then we can see we've got much more blur in the subject
to give you an idea of what the real look of this water is so I set my
shutter speed to something like a 50th of a second which would be how our eyes
normally see this so if I change this to about a 50th of a second
look at the aperture it's left 3.5 so it can't drive the lens any wider so I'm
gonna have to change my ISO to get the normal exposure so we'll probably need
to be in the region of ISO 400 we're still not in control a little bit more
ISO 1600 ISO just come in control so it's changed the opportunity to f4 if I
wanted to go back to f8 then obviously I'm gonna have to change my IR so again
so we'll go to at 3200 and there's 5.6 I wouldn't like to go above ISO 3200
because of noise issues with the image so we'll take this shot at F 5.6 with
ISO 3200 without one fifth of a second exposure and that's how the water
normally looked to your eye just that little bit of motion blur in it if you
want it to completely stop the motion then you'd have to use a much faster
shutter speed and to achieve that I'd have to use a much higher ISO so just
for the heck of it will go to ISO 12800
the aperture is that 11 so it means I can change my shutter speed and go to a
250th and that's maintaining upper - control of f5 so let's take that out
250th f5 iso 31000 800 so you can see there's a lot more arresting of the
water as it's rained down but obviously we've incurred the pendency of a lot
more noise in the image because we're using a much higher ISO now we're
shooting in the shutter priority mode but for something like this I would
normally preferred to shoot in the manual mode so I can actually set my ISO
down to 100 I can set my aperture to what I want so let's set this to f11 so
set the opportunity to f11 and now I can control my shutter speed to give me the
right exposure see we're under expose by about one and a half stops so I can
change my shutter speed make it longer to him increase the exposure you can see
the exposure meter is moving back towards the center point so that's given
me a two-second exposure with ISO 100 and f11 so we'll take that
shot you can compare it to the original TV mold well that's it for part three of
this video tutorial series and the hope you finding it useful of course if
you're a new viewer and haven't subscribed already to the channel please
do click the subscription button and the bell notification icon and then you'll
be notified when I upload the next video in this series now in part 4 we're going
to be looking at two other elements which can affect your image quality the
first one is white balance now normally we use automatic white balance and in
most cases that gives you a good color rendition but there are some
circumstances where you might want to get more color accurate results and
that's when we would use a manual white balance and I'll be showing you how to
do a manual balance procedure with this particular camera and the other one is
the picture styles now the picture Styles can allow you to change the
parameters that the JPEG process image is derived from so we'll be looking at
the various photo styles and how you can fine-tune them to any particular style
of photography that you might be using so that will be in part four and that
will be coming up very shortly so until then thanks again for watching
please do take care and I hope to see you all in the next one good bye for now