Hello I'm Graham and I hope everyone's having a great day welcome to today's
video which is the procedure to replace this rear control wheel of the panasonic
lumix f set 200 now this control wheel has now become a stock fault on this
camera and you'll probably experience it between two to three years so that's
outside your warranty period it's a simple enough procedure to complete if
you have the right tools and you're not afraid just to have a go at repairing
your own electronic devices the switch is now available on amazon websites and
it's available on amazon.com and iwas on co uk for sure i'd purchase this one on
amazon co uk and arrived in two weeks it came from the USA so i'll put links to
the part number for that product in the video description below for you so it's
the genuine replacement part and you'll see how easy it is to replace now you
will require some tools to complete this task now the screws in Japanese cameras
are what are called jts screws and they look like a crosspoint screwdriver so
you can actually get away with using a double-0 screwdriver and here i've got a
kit these are made by Draper there are just a generic set of screwdrivers you
only need a small flat blade and the double zero Phillips head screw to allow
you to remove the screws from this camera optionally a pair of small
tweezers just for replacement of the ribbon cables in the camera another idea
is to have a sheet of paper with some double-sided tape on it you can serious
marked ABCDE and those refer to the case screws there are two screws which will
gone here which refer to two screws from the hot shoe and then two more screws
which will be from the control dial and the navigation plate so you see these in
operation as I start to take the camera it to pieces now before you start the
procedure you must remove your battery if you've got one in the camera you
don't want the circuit part up whilst you're doing this Percy
in an ideal world you should be using you're grounded wrist strap so that
you're not going to damage the camera by any electrostatic discharge but as most
people I'm not going to do that and if you don't handle the components too much
you will probably be okay to do this procedure without ESD precaution okay
let's make a start on the removal of the case so we can get access to this switch
now the first thing you've got to remove is this spring clip which is inside the
hot shoe of the camera and to remove that you need to put your small flat
bladed screwdriver between the plastic case and the front edge of the spring
clip just put that in there and just leave it up and you'll find then you can
pull down the spring clip and remove it from the hot shoe put that in a safe
place ready for the reassembly now you notice on the hot shoe there are two
silver screws and two black screws now it's the black screws that we're going
to remove and not the silver ones leave those in place because they hold the
flush ahead and the hot shoe onto the camera so I just removed these two black
screws with the crosshead screwdriver just a gentle press down and then start
to rotate to bring the screw out now if you've got a magnetized screwdriver it
makes this easier and if you haven't got a screwdriver which is magnetized then
if you take a magnet and if this was the magnet if you stroke the magnet along
the shaft of the screwdriver about five times then you will magnetize your
screwdriver and that does help especially in the replacement of some of
the screws in the camera body so we're removing these two screws two black
screws
and they go into my position 1 & 2 on the paper for the hot shoe now we've got
five case screws to take out one here on the left hand side two on the bottom of
the camera and two on the right hand side so one here and one here which is
actually on the front part of this casing but it does align through the
back part of the casing so I've called these a B C D and E so I'll start over
here on the left hand side I'll remove this screw again just to press in and
then rotate take out the screw and that goes in position a continue around the
case we've got our second screw
which will be
and the next one
to side screws
and finally the top
so those are the case screws removed there no means we can actually remove
the back of the camera now when you do that there is a ribbon cable which
attaches to the LCD which goes to the main circuit board so be careful when
you take the case apart that you don't just pull it apart as you rip the ribbon
cable so be gentle when you're removing the back cover and we can just put your
fingers in the split between the case and it's gently bring that back like so
and then you'll notice you can just fold that down and there's that ribbon cable
that you must be aware of not to over stretch it or you'll tear it or break it
from its connector now I do recommend that you have to remove the LCD display
and on the connector is a black strip and that's a locking connector now to
release the ribbon cable from that locking connector you need to raise this
locking tab now you can either use a back-end of a pair of forceps if you can
get those in but I found a fingernail just in the center of that and just
gently lift it up will allow you to remove the cable without any damage make
sure your fingernail is in the center of the latch then just gently raise it so
you can put aside the LCD display you can see we got access to the rear of
camera this is the switch assembly that we're going to replace but to get to it
we need to remove this blue panel here which is the navigation control panel
and then the top control dial to enable us to get to the screws which hold this
in place so the next one to remove is this actual panel and again there are
two screws one here and one here and there's a ribbon cable at the bottom but
this unit will fold down and again I recommend you to remove that ribbon
cable which is here so that you're not going to strain the connector so again
the two black screws
check out this one and I called that navigation plate so that's the left one
and one over here which is in the recess and that is the second one I think those
on the double sided tape they can probably see this plate just lunches
into two plastic channels on the bottom on the camera so if you can just pull
this plate from the top then you can actually fold it down just lift it out
to the channel and there you'll probably see here's the other ribbon cable at the
bottom right hand side so again so that you're not going to damage that just
again put your finger in that black latch lift it forward and then just
release the ribbon cable put that on one side so now comes the probably one of
the most difficult parts of the procedure that I still remove a screw
which is holding this top mode of assembly and it's access through a space
here between the control panel and the flash housing so in the picture I'm
showing you now is a close-up of where that screw is but it's a case of getting
your screwdriver into there not disturbing this small ribbon cable that
goes to the connector here and then removing that screw so gently remove the
screw and again the magnetic screwdriver does help and place that on your sticky
pad for the control dial no that's removed we can actually slide out this
top control dial now before we remove the top assembly there is another ribbon
cable to removed and here you can see we got the connector and it's locking
assembly so again with your fingernail just put your fingernail in the middle
of that lock and lift it up once it's raised it means you can remove that lock
assembly and you can either use your flat bladed screwdriver
just behind that ribbon cable to release it and then we can slide out this top
control assembly like so put that on one side no can see we gain access to the
switch that we're going to replace this top control switch held in place by
again two silver screws which are on the top plate so I'm going to remove those
two screws and underneath is a flat ribbon cable from the switch which again
goes to a connector on the top of the camera so we'll remove these two silver
screws and just place that one there because we're going to replace it
immediately and the other one on the switch itself there's a two tabs with
slots in them and they fit over two plastic pips on the camera body itself
so to remove it it's a case of going in with your flat bladed screwdriver to
release those two clips from either side and then you can actually move the
switch out to the right hand side now again you're not just we've got a
locking lever on the top control board for this switch so again just gently
lift up that tab and allows you to remove the ribbon cable from that socket
so that's the old switch out and now we're going to replace it with the new
switch so the switch oriented upside down slide the connector into the socket
so and push it firmly home and then close the black sleeve up is pushed down
gently to latch it in place now we can install the switch on that post again
put it in position aligning the screw holes with the holes in the circuit
board and just press the switch in place now we can reinstall those two silver
screws gently tighten those down
check both groups are fully seated and the switch is now on its pedestal the
rest of the procedure is to reassemble the camera and we can start with the top
control assembly again we need to slide this into position like so we take our
one screw which was for the control dial place that on your magnetic screwdriver
and now it's a case of aligning that through the hole
and sign that up now we just need to reinstall the ribbon cable into its
connector and again with your tweezers just gently place that into the slot of
the connector make sure that it goes down and then close the latch now we can
replace the navigation control switch and again we need to in step install the
ribbon cable into the connector
so slide that up in place and then close the latch then gently install the two
tabs of that plates into the slots in the camera body close that in position
like so and then we can install the two screws which hold that in place so
they're the two from the navigation plate
one
to
now the final part is to install the back on the camera and that involves
replacements of the ribbon cable for the LCD display now this is quite fiddly
because this cable is quite short and you don't want to damage it in any way
when you are assembling it so I found the best ways to put the camera lens
down so you've got the camera flat and then you've got to install this gold
connector so that it is in the connector with the gold contacts facing upwards so
holding the back of the camera so you just got this vertically off the camera
you've got to then just line this front edge of the connector with the plastic
then insert it into the socket and then close the latch the front edge of the
connector needs to go in parallel once it's in position just again push down on
that plastic bar which locks the IDC connector in place now we can install
the camera back so again just gently place it in position like so make sure
that the flash housing aligns with the notches in the back of the case to lock
all gap is closed and now against all our case screws so it doesn't matter
which side you work from so going from a all the way around again so screw a
you
- those we need to install the two black
screws on the hot shoe
and finally our spring clip and that is aligned so that two tangs are facing
upwards and then we just slide that into the hot shoe just make sure that those
two spring clips go inside the hot shoe push that forward and then pushing on
the two rear tabs you should hear it clip in place over the front edge of the
plastic so that is the replacement complete we can now put our after back
into the camera turn it on get our display working so we know we've got our
ribbon cable correctly assembled now we can test our switch so it should
switches in aperture priority mode between aperture and exposure value
compensation so again by pushing the switch in now you can see we've got two
exposure value compensation and we can change that value and if we push the
switch in again now it takes us back to aperture and we can change that value so
that's the complete procedure for replacing the rear control switch or
rear control wheel on the SI 200 thanks very much for watching as usual please
do take care and I hope to see you all in my next video goodbye for now