Did you ever start glazing and wonder if the glaze or glaze combination will turn out?
Hi, Marie here from Pottery crafters.com. In this video, I'll show you the different
ways that you can make and use test tiles. I found it easier to have them pre-made,
so when you're ready to try any new glaze or glaze combinations, just grab a pre-made test tile and
apply your glaze. Test tiles are a great way to try glazes without wasting your glaze or clay. I
would much rather waste these test tiles. Then these pieces that I had spent time and energy
on making. The supplies used in this video are listed for you below in the show notes.
You can make test tiles on the wheel or by hand. I'll start with hand-building some test tiles.
I have three pounds of Amaco number 11 A mix stoneware white clay. You want
to roll out a quarter of an inch slab of clay. Start by flattening out your clay.
You want to move the clay towards you as you throw it on your work table.
If you'll find the slab of clay isn't a quarter of an inch thick evenly. You can use two quarter
of an inch pieces of wood. I found these rulers work really well. I placed the rulers on each
side of my clay, and I want to make sure the rolling pin doesn't roll off my rulers. Once
you get the distance right. I use these C clamps to keep the rulers in place. It works great.
Use a little cornstarch, so it doesn't stick to the surface of your rolling pin.
Just a little is fine.
And start rolling out your clay.
Reapply a little cornstarch if you feel it's starting to stick.
This method works really well, or you can use a slab roller.
This Bailey tabletop slab roller works really well, and it's great if you're limited on space.
I have a link for you to check it out in the show notes below.
Smooth out your clay.
These soft ribs work really well for smoothing out your clay.
You want to measure out around two inches and three inches, but it doesn't have to be exact.
Trim the ends. Now I'll let this dry a little bit more and let it get a little firmer.
I'm putting texture on one side of the test tile. I'll use a little cornstarch on
my rolling pin, so it doesn't stick.
And with this one, I'm just going to make some grooves. Random grooves is all you need
just to see how the glaze flows. Once your clay is hard enough to stand up on its own
mark your test tile. An inch and a half is a good width.
It gives you a good idea as to how the glaze is going to look, and again you don't need to
be precise just so you have enough real estate to see how your glaze is going to turn out. Now make
your holes just in case you want to hook them up someday. After you fire the clay it's pretty hard
to put holes in your tiles just in case. Now score at the bottom of your test tile and in the middle.
I always have my bag of slip ready.
Just a little slip will do. I have a video on
making plain slip. This is a great way to store your slip.
Apply it to the bottom. Make sure you have a good amount of slip.
Don't get stingy. Apply to the bottom of your test tile right in the grooves. There.
Place your test tile right in the middle of your stand. Right in there.
Just wiggle it a little. Stays right up. Then, take a little bit more of your slip
put it right in between your stand and your test tile.
This will ensure your test tile stays attached. There, that easy, and I wait a little bit for the
clay to harden some more before I cut it. Now just cut your test tiles where you mark them.
I have enough clay on the base, so they stand on their own. That's
very important, especially when you're testing out flowing glazes like I often do.
When you finish cutting them very important to number them.
It doesn't matter if you number them on the base or on the bottom. I like to number them
on the bottom because I test out a lot of flowing glazes, and the glaze may flow over the number.
Once they're all numbered, I set them aside to dry and bisque fire to cone 04.
Now I'll show you how to make test tiles on the wheel.
I have four pounds of Amaco number 11 a mix stoneware white clay
Center your clay. If you have any trouble centering. I have a video on centering
clay that will be helpful. I left the link for you below in the show notes.
Once the clay is centered, push all the clay from the center of your wheel
outward to the edge of your wheel or bat. I use both hands to push the clay outward.
You don't have to get it all at once. Using a sponge helps a lot.
Continue to move clay outward from the center.
Once most of the clay is at the edge where you want it to be, you can start pulling up the sides.
Keep pulling upward until you get about two and a half three inches high,
and you want your clay to be a quarter of an inch thick.
Once you have the height, you can take the rest of the clay out of the middle.
You can use a wooden rib to get rid of any extra clay in the center.
Make sure you leave clay on both sides of the test tile so it stands up in the kiln.
I'm using this carving tool to make some grooves in the clay for texture. Random grooves are fine,
just so you get an idea of how the glaze is going to react to a textured surface.
Now you can cut your test tiles.
An inch and a half apart is good, just enough real estate to see the glaze results
or underglaze or slip. Now make your holes just in case you want to hook them up someday on display.
To remove the test tiles, you can use a long metal scraper. It works pretty good.
Then number your test tile. Or
you can use a wire cutter.
I'll let the bottom dry a little more and then continue numbering them.
Now set them aside just like the hand-built test tiles. Let them dry and bisque fire at cone 04.
Once the test tiles are bisque fired, you can have them ready for testing glazes or
underglazes. Simply grab the test tile that's already bisqued and ready to go. Look at the
number and write down what you're testing. I have 51, and I'm going to test the honey flux.
You'll want to apply the glaze the same way that you would on your piece of pottery.
This is important because it will affect the end result. You have to write it down,
especially if you test out a lot of different glazes. You think you'll remember, but you won't.
I certainly don't. Here are some examples of my recently fired test tiles.
After I fire them, I consult my textile notes. This test tile is number 55.
Honey flux two coats brushed on, and textured turquoise dipped just on the top.
I think it turned out great by putting a texture on one side of the test tile
and having the other side smooth. You can see the difference in the glaze on the smooth side.
And on the textured side, these notes come in so handy, especially if you like using
a lot of different glaze combinations and you want to try some new techniques.
If you like what you see, give this video a thumbs up anytime during the video.
This underglaze separated, and the texture was not as smooth, so I test fired it, and it was bad.
I received these low-fire glazes from a friend of mine. I don't have any low-fire clay,
so I wanted to see how the glazes would turn out these all crazed on me. The clay and
the glaze have to be able to expand and contract together. It's very important,
and that's why textiles are very important. For more information on crazing, I have an article
on what causes it and how to help prevent it. I left the link for you in the show notes below.
I can still use these glazes on decorative pieces. I'm glad I test fired these first and didn't waste
any clay or glaze on a mug. You can display your test tiles by hooking them on a pegboard.
Or find a spot to stand them up if you don't have any extra room to display them.
You can also take pictures and keep them in folders for quick and easy reference.
I keep mine in folders on the computer because I don't have any extra room to display them.
I hope I've helped you to save some Pottery by showing you easy ways to make test and document
test tiles. Testing your glaze first is important when you want to try a new glazing technique,
see how a glaze will turn out, make sure your glaze or underglaze is still good, or if your
glaze and clay are compatible. You watching helps me to make more videos like this one.
Now head on over to my Trace and Transfer video, or my How-to Bubble Glaze video.
If you do, I get to play with more clay.
Let's stay dirty.