welcome to whale.com i'm paul your host and today we'll be talking about and demonstrating welding
309 filler metal using the smaw process also known as stick welding everybody knows stick welding and
you know 309 is one of the most commonly used rods and you can find it everywhere from the garage to
the field and everywhere in between so let's get started first off what is 309 filler metal
used for in most cases when welding dissimilar metals or to be more specific carbon steel to
stainless steel the most commonly used is a 309 filler metal because of its higher ferret content
and of course the higher the ferret content can maximize well dilution and prevent well cracking
does anyone have any idea the tensile strength of the 309 filler material especially the smaw
anybody well here we'll talk about it the tensile strength is 87 000 psi believe it or not that's
pretty strong in my book compare a commonly known whaling rod of the 7018 that has temple strength
of 70 000 psi the 309 rod has 17 000 more psi than the 7018 rod that most industries use and rely on
so never underestimate the 309 rod so today what we're going to be using of course is the lincoln
square wave tig 175 pro very very very simple machine to set up it don't have all the bells
and whistles but very good running machine so what we're going to set up for is the e309l 16. you can
run on ac or dcep which is electro positive we're going to run on electro positive today i'm going
to talk a little bit about the profile of the 15 16 and 17 real quick the 15 is the convex
which is more rounded than the 16 but the 16 is a convex two and then the 17 profile rod is concave
so we're using 16 today and i got it hooked up it says i've got a little bit over 110 which you
can't really tell exactly what it is because it's not digital but we're we're a little warm we're a
little bit over 110. we're gonna get started here in a second and what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna
do a lap joint and then i'm gonna do a t-joint on the lap joint i'll just run one single pass
and show you and we'll talk about the profile and how the well looks and everything
and then we'll switch over and go to the t joint and i'm gonna run three passes
multiple passes on the t joint and we'll talk about the profile of that
and i'm gonna run it into one f position so that's flat so anyways let's get started
and like i always like to do doesn't matter what kind of rod i run i always
like to start back two or three inches before i drag it into my start spot
and you can see i kind of favor the stainless side
so i'm not manipulating the rod much just a little bit but very quickly
and staying on the stainless side so i got a drag angle about 20 to 25 degrees
i can tell it's tying into both the metals really well
so we're coming down and you can see that broad angle is about the same 20 25 same speed
so you see i welded the lap joint and i stretched that rod and it made eight inches i haven't
chipped the slag yet to see what it looks like but normally you should weld down to the numbers
and then usually the rods no good after after the numbers because the stub's so hot but anyway i
got lucky and made the whole width of the eight inches here so what i like to do is like i said
before i like to let the slag cool off because man if you touch that slag it'll jump on you
know i've had it jump on my hands my face and it burns the thing about it is that slag holds the
heat because of the stainless it holds the heat and it don't feel good at all so you don't really
need to beat it up because the 16 slag removes real easy but basically you just touch it like so
and it'll pop off there just like that
profile of the well looks really good to me
you see it tied into both both the carbon and the stainless really good but if you notice when i was
welding i was kind of favoring the stainless a little bit that's why i do that because it
it'll flow to the carbon the stainless is a little bit harder so to get it to flow on
our stainless so that's why i kind of favor it a little bit but you can see it tied in really nice
there's no undercut or anything got a couple bbs but so this 16 rod he said
it shows a little convex well that's exactly what it gives you know so anyway we'll move on to the
t-joint and i'm going to do a multi-pass on the t-joint so we're going to start on this t-joint
and just like i always like to do i start back a couple inches before i start welding
and i'm favoring again favoring the stainless side and manipulating it very quick and very short
little short back and forth manipulation you don't want to get too far out because
spiro 9 doesn't weld that good when you try to wide weave and stuff like that
we're coming down here i'm hoping this rod will make it the whole way
and i'm testing it because you can see the numbers
i'm testing it i'm testing it i'm almost to the end oh my i barely gonna make it
so you can see i ran my first pass so we'll knock the slag off
see how it pops up in there you don't want that popping up on your skin
so i like the way this excalibur e309 l-16 runs runs really smooth if you have your
heat and everything just right your travel speed comes out nice and slick like that
now take my next pass and start right here on the stainless side
and and cover half that pass right there out that bead so i get nice coverage and tie in really
good to the stainless side coming down so when i put my third pass on it'll be on the carbon side
you know tying really good to that that top bead that i'm trying to tie into
so we're on our second pass now and i'm going back to my old routine
start back a couple inches before i start my weld and i'm hanging on the stainless side
not much manipulation because i just want to cover half the weld and tie
into the stainless side really good so when i go to well the other side it's the other half
and the carbon side and it looks really good when it ties in
and it's nice and uniform and the profile the weld looks really good when when you run nice stringers
getting half that bead covering it up half that bead and i'm not
gonna make the whole rod this time so we're gonna have to pull off
i didn't make this
one so i initiate the arc and when i go to tie in i just do a quick little seed formation
and get right back on that stainless side
so on this one i didn't quite make it to the end so i had to
restart the italian looks really nice profile looks good it's tied in really good to the
stainless and now we'll do the carbon side let's weld it out
so just like my normal routine start back couple inches drag it
get that rod nice and hot so you tie in make a nice tie in
and i'm hanging on the carbon side and not much manipulation because
i've already covered about 50 50 to 70 of the welds so i want it
both to look uniform so i'm not using much manipulation rod angle's about 20 25 degrees
hanging right in the middle kind of swerving towards the carbon side a little bit
a little manipulation not a lot we're looking really good coming down there
and we're getting down to the number so here we go
so we'll initiate weld again a couple inches back make our quick little sea formation
swoop in there tie in and right angle 20 25 degrees
so you can see i got my final pass on it so we'll chip it off
and i don't i don't like hitting it that hard it should just fall off just like that you know
hit it with a wire brush make it look real pretty and shiny
you know like like you're taking around on friday night date
so i got really good color looks really good and i had to stop and restart and restart looks good
you can definitely tell how well it tied into the carbon
nice and uniform bead it kind of overlapped just a little bit more than i wanted to
but it's still still fine with that tied tied in really good to the stainless too
and and i like it looks like really good profile as well
shining hello gold in there so i like it it turned out really well i had a great time
doing this video thanks for tuning in today have questions or comments
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you