- Right, I'm back here again to help
solve your technical problems,
questions, queries, conundrums,
anything tech-related that you throw at me,
I'll do my best to answer.
Let's crack on, shall we?
First up is a question from Tevz,
who wants to know what's the difference
between a 110 and 130 BCD crankset.
They know it's the diameter of the bolts,
but they don't understand why
we don't all just use 110 instead of 130.
Also, is there any difference between
a 55 tooth chainring on a 110 BCD and a 55 on a 130?
Right, I'm just going to have to try
and get my head around again your question.
But basically, years ago, chainring technology
isn't where it is now
so if we use a large chainring on a smaller BCD,
the chainrings did tend to flex a little bit.
I think I even managed to get one to flex once,
and that's saying something.
However, now it's moved on
and most manufacturers do tend to use a smaller BCD
so in effect, they don't have to make different
chainsets for standard and compact users.
One chainset can do all.
As for the difference, using a 55 on a 110 or 130 BCD,
that all depends on the chainring being used
and also how much power you are kicking out.
So, it's a very tough one to actually answer.
Interestingly though, the standard BCD for track cycling
is still 144 so that's pretty large.
Reason being, they do tend to use a bigger chainring anyway
and then in theory, I guess there's going to be less flex
in those chainrings.
Hopefully, that's answered your question.
Right, next up a question from Johannes Schmidberger,
who says they've got a Shimano 105 group set
and they like it.
However, when shifting with either lever
they have to move them at 2 cm before they feel resistance
and the actual shifting happens.
Is there a way to reduce this dead space
and to make the shifting more direct?
Right, I'm afraid not.
The reason being that it's not really actually a dead space
because when you're moving the lever over,
you're essentially engaging or disengaging the ratchets
to begin that gear change.
The only solution with Shimano is to go to a Di2 groupset
but admittedly, that's going to cost you a bit of money
because you're going to have to
get new derailleurs there too.
Now, interesting geek fact here,
Peter Sagan at Paris-Roubaix,
he actually changed from the standard Di2 setup
to using mechanical groupset. Why?
I don't know, I've not managed to ask him.
But it could be that he didn't want
an accidental gear change from the simple buttons press
of the Di2 lever and wanted the more reassuring movement
of a mechanical lever.
So, there you are. That could be.
Actually, a nice little nugget inside your head
when you're riding along,
knowing that Sagan won Paris-Roubaix on mechanical.
Right, now, Adam T has got a greasy question.
"Can leaving a chain soaking in de-greaser for
days or weeks at a time cause any damage to the chain?"
Really, really good question there.
At home, believe it or not,
I've got a chain soaking in de-greaser
for about the last four months.
So it's inside of a plastic box
and it's there in the bottom.
The reason being it wasn't that I could see into the future
and knew that your question was coming in.
It's actually just for a little project
I've got going on at home.
It started off filthy and now it is sparkling clean.
Every now and then I go in and give it a shake,
just to try get it a little bit cleaner again.
As for does it affect the chain?
I don't know.
I'm guessing that there are some de-greasers out there
that are very damaging towards metals.
I'm afraid I don't if it's a good idea to leave it in there
for weeks or months.
But that chain is not going to be going back on my bike.
But I can let you know one thing,
I've put a cassette and lockring in some de-greaser
for a couple of weeks
and believe it or not, that de-greaser,
which isn't particularly strong, not in my opinion,
it actually managed to remove
the etching of the Dura Ace lockring
and the cassette is also really, really dull now.
So, I wouldn't recommend it on anything you want to reuse
just for the pure sake of
if it does affect the structure of it.
Okay, Matthew Hart.
They've got a 2012 bike that they use for commuting
and he's got a 9-speed drivetrain.
What would they need to upgrade it to 10-speed?
Cassette, chain, shifters, anything else?
The wheels are suitable for 9- and 10-speed already.
Right, well with all those components
you just mentioned there,
you should be good to go
because a 9-speed derailleur
will work with 10-speed shifters
from every single one that I've managed to fit.
I would also put some fresh cables in there too
to take advantage of that time basically,
when you're putting on the new component.
And also, you're going to get some nice smooth gear changes.
That's going to be a nice little commuting bike that.
Enjoy it.
Right, next up from Mattijs Op de Beeck,
they want to know, "If you have changed your chain
do you need to lube it?
Or is the lube that's on the chain enough?"
So, Mattijs, I think you mean the factory lubricant
or I hope you do,
because that's the answer you're going to get.
So that lubricant.
It's kind of like a sticky feel to it, isn't it?
It's not slimy and it's not really chunky.
But it's just about perfect, in my opinion anyway.
I always leave it on there
and I recommend that everyone else does.
And from memory,
Shimano advise leaving it on their chains too.
Now the closest I've ever got to finding that lubricant
is by buying some bottles of KMC lube
and basically putting it into a tray
and then rolling my chain around in it
and then hanging it up to dry
and that got that way.
But yeah, leave it on there
and you'll be good to go.
Happy riding, mate.
Right, Kenny Henderson, they want to know
they've got themselves a 10-speed SRAM red WiFLi rear mech
and if they change the right hand gear lever to 11-speed,
can they use it and simply adjust the limit screws
to suit the wider cassette or will it not work smoothly.
Now, good news, that rear derailleur
will work just perfectly.
But what you are also going to need to bear in mind
is that if you're just going to buy one lever,
is that the hood shape is exactly the same.
Because ultimately, you want to have good control
and also good braking.
Those two things are pretty important,
I'm sure you agree.
Also, make sure that the freehub on your rear wheel
can accommodate that 11-speed cassette, as well.
Otherwise everything you do would just be for nothing
because it won't work.
So, just make sure of that, too.
Right, final question this week is from Toby Price,
who asks, they've got a problem with a real wheel
that keeps slipping.
It's a quick release and even if they tighten it up loads,
it still moves slightly,
meaning that the wheel ends up rubbing on the brake.
That's never good.
At first they thought it may be the dropouts
that weren't equal but they are.
Any suggestions?
Right, Toby. I can relate to this.
I once had a wheel that kept coming loose
on a commuter bike and I persevered
and I kept tightening up that skewer
and it just kept coming loose.
So, you could try a different skewer
but it's interesting it's coming loose
and then rubbing on the rear wheel.
I'm not actually sure without looking at it a 100%.
You could try a very, very thin washer
on the end of the axle to go
in between the axle and the frame
to try and space it out a little bit.
But personally, try a different skewer in there
and see if that makes any difference
and hopefully, you'll be problem-free.
Now, unfortunately, that one is the final question this week
so I'm going to close the questions.
But do remember to leave me your questions
in the comments down there below
and also, give this one a like and a thumbs up too.
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