The pattern stock is used in a duplicating machine to create the final
stock of near-final dimensions. The easiest way to make a pattern stock is
to start with a factory stock, then with some Bondo, a rasp, and some elbow grease,
you can create a fitted pattern stock. For this project
we're using a Remington 700 ADL. There are five critical areas that need our
attention. First is the thickness and shape of the action area from front to
back as this affects strength, appearance, and feel. Second is the length and
roundness of the forend as this affects both appearance and feel and
third is the dimension of the grip both circumference and closeness or openness.
This affects the feel as well as the control of the trigger when firing and
fourth is the length of the stock. This affects both the mounting of the gun the
comfortable positioning of the trigger hand and to some extent the eye relief
of the scope, last is the height of the comb as this affects how easily the
scope or sights line up as the gun is mounted. Before I can begin altering the
dimensions of the stock it must be Inlet for the larger aftermarket barrel. This
is not precision work as we're creating a greatly oversized barrel channel which
we will fill in with Bondo.
Since I plan to glass bed the finished stock and free float the barrel
I'm adding two layers of bedding tape to the barrel for clearance. Now I can apply
some paste wax as a release agent to the barreled action and using a bit of Bondo
bed the barrel channel. This ensures the inletting can be properly duplicated. I
like to start altering the external stock dimensions at the action area.
First I measure it for width at the front, rear, and center of the action.
Since I prefer the action area to be around two inches wide for this rifle
and the sides parallel we just need to scuff the surface of the stock, mix up
some Bondo and add enough to get the desired thickness and shape. Note that
I'm putting most of the Bondo in the middle of the stock. One of the great
properties of Bondo is that it sets up quickly so we're able to work almost
right away. Now Bondo is very abrasive and will dull
a good file rather quickly so I use an old file rather than a new one. I'm using
a Nicholson 49 in this case, but any coarse file that will remove the
material will work fine. This job is easier if you take the time to level the
stock on the centerline before you start. Since the sides are designed to be
parallel we can use a level for verification. Now we can begin working
the other side after leveling it off the centerline, that looks pretty good. All
that's left is to round the bottom of the action area blending in the sides
with the bottom of the factory stock. I clean everything up and set the top
rails along the action to 1/8 of an inch width. The forend is next. On a 24 inch
barrel I prefer a nine and a half inch forend, so I'm going to shorten this one
a bit. This forend is pretty flat on the bottom. My preference is for a forend
that is nearly round at the tip and tapered nicely from the action, like this
one. This forend is also wide and bulky nearly 1.6 inches in diameter.
I prefer a slimmer forend about one point three inches in diameter at the
tip. To get started I simply make up a 1.3 inch cardboard circle.
Our barrel measures 0.8130" at the forend tip. I'll add that number to the
desired width of the top rails which is 1/8 of an inch for a total of 1.063
inches. This width is marked on the circle which locates the top of the
template. Now I can mark the centerline of the circle, then the location of the
barrel channel and top rails, and cut it out. Now I can mark the forend tip.
The forend should be a straight taper from the front of the action to the tip
of the forend, so we'll need to remove material. I start by filing a flat on the
bottom, confirming that my line is straight using a straight edge. Now I can
add a bit more Bondo, mark the width of my top rails, and file a flat on each
side. Now each of these edges needs to be filed flat. You can see at the top edge I
am maintaining the rails at 1/8 of an inch.
Sometimes it helps to add a little stain so you can see your progress.
One more filing off of the corners and I'm ready to carefully blend all the
edges into a nearly round shape. The result is a pattern with a pleasing
slightly petite feel. Now I can concentrate on the grip area. The two
most important areas are the circumference and distance from the
trigger to the front of the grip cap. The circumference of most rifles typically
falls in the range of 4 and 3/4 to 5 inches. I've made a series of dowels, the
largest matching the factory circumference, which is a bit too large
for me. The 4 and a half-inch dowel is just right and the four and a quarter
feels too small. To ensure the right circumference I'll use a grip cap of the
same measurement. You'll find that generally, the grip cap is nearly
identical in shape and circumference to a cross-section of the wrist at its
thinnest part.
The next project is to determine the distance from the front of the pistol
grip to the middle of the trigger. Because the pistol grip on the factory
stock is too close for me as evidenced by my finger wrapping well over the
trigger. I'll need to move it back so the front pad and my finger touches the
trigger. I'm making a mark of one quarter of an inch, then removing that much
material from the front of the grip and trying it for fit, that's about right. Now
I can file the bottom of the grip flap and install the grip cap being sure it's
in the center of the grip. Next, I blend the lines accordingly. Now I file the
sides flap maintaining the same width as the grip cap. These lines can now be
blended together to carry the dimensions of the grip cap all the way to the
middle of the grip. After which I can blend the area from
the rear of the action to the middle of the grip. Now I have a grip that feels
good and positions the middle of the front segment of my trigger finger on
the middle of the trigger no excuses now. Let's talk about the length of pull. This
is the distance from the center of the butt to the center of the trigger. It's
important because it affects the mounting of the gun. If the length of
pull is too short your nose will hit your thumb each time you shoot. If it's
too long the heel will catch on clothing or your armpit and prevent fast mounting
of the gun. To dial in the length of pull on our pattern stock, we can shorten the
stock or add cardboard spacers if we need to add length. Now the length of
pull on our pattern stock major is 13 and three-quarter inches which is nearly
perfect for me. Next, we can address the Coleman
cheekpiece. The Coleman cheekpiece determine the relationship of the eye
to the scope and the sights. We're most concerned with the side-to-side position
of the cheek piece and the height of the comb. To adjust the thickness of the
cheekpiece we took a solid steel rod and drilled a hole down the center. With
this mounted in the rings on the rifle. I shouldered the gun pointing it at a
target on the wall with my cheek welded properly to the stock. In this case the
cheekpiece is a little thick and the combs too high. I'll remove material from
the cheekpiece and the comb, checking my progress as I work. It's important to
move slowly removing a small amount of wood at a time until your eye is
perfectly centered in the tube, that's about right.
In some instances such as if your eye lines up like this, you may need to add
material to the comb and cheekpiece using Bondo. Since the recoil pad needs to be
removed before I send the stock to the duplicator we'll install this wooden
spacer. First I remove the factory recoil pad the white spacer and scrape away any
remaining glue. Now I can locate the screw holes, drill
pilot holes, and screw on the spacer. Once the spacer is in place I can address the
toe line. I'm using a rasp to remove material and a straightedge to check my
work. I continue removing material until the toe line is straight. Now using a pair
of round files, I can clean up the area right behind the grip cap. Since the
wooden space is a bit wider than the buttstock I'll file it down to match the
buttstock. Once that's done I can tie the grip into the buttstock. You can see
there's a bit of a high spot on the grip. I'll strike a line from the grip to the
center of the buck and file it flat, again using a straightedge to check my
progress. Now I filed two additional flats one above and one below the center
flat. After filing those out I'll repeat the process on the other side of the
stock. The flutes need to be scuffed so I can fill them in with Bondo.
I'll also fill in the rear swivel stud hole at this time. After cleaning up the
Bondo I mark the location of the new flute so that they are around an inch and 3/4
in length and point toward the toe. A
round rasp is used to cut the flute so it's about a quarter of an inch below
the comb. Once the flutes cut to depth we can remove this fat area below it and
blend the flute into the grip. This process is repeated on the other side so
there's about an eighth of an inch between the flutes, I'm using a small
file to reshape the point of the comb, pretty good. Now I can detail the stock
by rounding the sides and smoothing everything up. Since we still have a
series of flats I just need to file down the corners and blend everything
together to get a nice rounded buttstock. If you prefer a palm swell, which I do,
it's a simple thing to apply a small amount of Bondo to the palm area, lay
some thin plastic over the bond, then shoulder the stock and squeeze until the
Bondo fills up the palm of your hand. It's best to go slow
adding small amounts of Bondo until the grip perfectly fits your hand. Now I can
clean it up a bit this will increase the circumference slightly, but won't change
the position of your hand. Now we have a nearly perfectly fitted pattern stock
that you're ready to be sent to the duplicator.