hey this is kevin's corner so here's a
scenario you've got your car painted
it's looking good
what you want to take advantage of that
one final opportunity to really super
enhance that finish from the top down
the process of color sanding and buffing
so you send every panel dead flat you go
from thousands of 1500 to 2000 grid you
wash it all down you're getting ready to
whip out your compound in your buffer
and you realize the worst possible thing
is just happened to have sanded through
a peaked edge just handed right through
your new paint job and write down in to
use the primer for the substrate or the
gelcoat and it breaks your heart and you
can see that it's not that difficult to
have something like this happen
we've got a raised edge here in a very
sharp . and unless you were very careful
or protected your edge when this hood
was wet
chances are you didn't even know that
happen till after its drive
I've often said the difference between a
painter and a paint gun owner is the
ability to solve the problems that come
up along the way the best-of-the-best
have issues and problems and here's how
to fix this one now back in the lacquer
days what you could probably do would be
to just take your black base coat and
blend a couple coats out and then take
your clear one coat two coats maybe
three coats and then cut your last coat
with a little bit of thinner a little
bit of reducer and then polish that edge
down and polish the whole thing
the reason you can get away with that
with lacquer is because the lacquer
paint that you're painting on top of did
not have a catalyst so the lacquer paint
that you're using and layering on top of
that reclose it the solvents and it bite
into it ended blends and becomes one
those days are gone forget about doing
that it does not work any catalyzed pain
what you're going to create is the layer
that sits on top and his week and I know
you've seen those repairs from a cheesy
little body shop that broke it off on
the sale pan or try to patch into
offended you
this hazy edge don't do that what you
have to do is repair the base color
which has no strength it's just the
color and then go to the either the next
simple panel break or clear the whole
panel that's what you got to do
that's just how it is get used to it and
you'll have a better result for it a
couple of different ways that we're
going to go about protecting our surface
and isolating our repair the first one
is to use masking tape just make a
little damn right here even use another
layer can pull it back that way there's
no chance to be building up paint too
much around that edge the other way I'm
going to protect the rest of my hood
because the paint's perfect there by
creating a damn and isolating the rest
of the camp
and if you notice I'm utilizing this
style line here is the Rays bulge in
this hood now where this a sharp
styleline will be talking about a whole
other technique because you can
literally break that off sometimes and
utilize that pedal brake as a way to
repair but not on this way
so what we're doing now is our tape
sticky too sticky
coming around
and with this in another couple of
techniques my overspray is not going to
blow that way I'm gonna blow my paint
this way this is going to protect the
rest of the hood now the reason I'm
rolling this edge bag should be pretty
obvious this soft tape edge the rollback
edge is rounded and in case you get a
little heavy with your with your base
coat you're not going to have a hard
edge build up its gonna be a soft rolled
edge here is actually a better example
of this technique I call it back taping
but you can see what happens
you can create this little cold right
here and as opposed to a hard line when
you're overspray pits that it's gonna
it's gonna roll underneath it's not
going to be able to make a hard peak
edge on this inside edge underneath that
tape so that when you pull it off
you've essentially got a nice blend and
it's so much easier transition to deal
with before I spray any paint i want to
make sure that you guys understand this
is a water-based crap paint so I can
talk you through the process while I'm
doing the repair when you're using
solvent-based or even waterborne
automotive paints don't neglect your
safety gear so the first thing we're
going to talk about is spray gun setup
we've got a tiny repair here so we don't
want a bunch of air pressure blowing it
out so we're going to dial the air
pressure back which is nice on this gun
because it's got that air valve on the
bottom
the second thing we want is the smallest
pattern available
well not enough air to a demise ok so
we've got your typical elliptical
football shape pattern there that's not
what we want
like I said we want to isolate this so
we're going to take our fan control and
dial it down it was close to a pinpoint
as we can get there we got a very small
pattern is still a little heavy for me
so I'm taking my fluid control and
choking this sucker off
ok that's no fluid delivery
you see what I'm doing which also brings
up another thing you can get real
creative here if you're doing custom
stuff by dialing this pattern down to a
fine pencil . now with the blend you
also want to be very aware that you're
not over coding so this setup is just
about exactly what I want
keep in mind also i'm not practicing my
gun setup on the panel I'm trying to
repair do it on a piece of scrap paper
okay now that we're ready to start
spring some Bank keep this in mind to it
your first tendency is going to be to
attack that line like this as you can
see it and you're aiming at it but keep
in mind the rest of the panel here so
spray away from the rest your panel this
is a fairly common body shop technique
for blending find your happy place your
comfort zone
there we go
keeping my movement small just like my
spray pattern all i'm doing is giving it
a touch now until let's try to touch
you're not ready for another coat to get
some flash time
here's another reason that bag taping is
a good technique see the edge I'm
exposing this fresh masking tape so by
rolling this back during the course of
my repair I'm eliminating any
possibility of a hard-edged build-up
along here
again between coats I'm rolling my
rolled edge back even further
it's also illustrates the importance of
crapping every bit of the panel
and once your repairs dry to the touch
and you're satisfied with the color
saturation you start unmasked take a
closer look at the whole mass keep in
mind also that right here the way i
sprayed that repair it's impossible to
get over sprayed up on this side so you
know the rescue is protected
so what we end up with is a very
isolated basecoat repair it keeps the
color exactly where we wanted it but
gives a slight blend out into the
existing panel and what that gives us is
a repair the completely disappears once
you add your clear coat now of course
you're gonna have to be a little more
careful with metallic or a pearl and
keep it a little more control but you
can still get there from here
the biggest thing that I want to impress
is that a clear coat blend has nothing
to do with the clear it's all in the
color you're clearing the entire panel
or up to the next available body panel
break or styleline so for more
information on this go to East was
online restoration form shop their tools
but great information check out Kevin's
corner chat me up
ask me about this type of stuff