Hii there, Guy from Midwinter Minis here. In this video I'm going to show you how
to paint the sandstone and glowing blue theme for Necrons
or any other miniature you want in easy-to-follow steps. First off let's
talk about the super boring first step. For this paint scheme, and really any
other scheme that requires a lot of dry brushing, assembly is where you can make
things really easy for yourself further down the line by taking a few more
seconds to remove the major mold lines on the models you're making you stop
them from catching the paint when you dry brush which inadvertently highlights
a part of the model that you really don't want to be showing off use the
back of your hobby knife or clippers to gently scrape away at the mold line or
any rough areas that remain from clipping the piece from the sprue until
they're nice and smooth this is also the time to add any large solid pieces or
bits of debris you'll want on your base typically sets them quickly and holds
well enough but if you've got time to spare use PVA as the bond is generally a
little bit stronger over time once you've removed your mold lines and
assembled your models you'll want to prime them for painting I prime these
necrons using Halfords gray plastic primer if you're not familiar at
Halfords is a car and bicycle accessory and repair chain in the UK now this
primer was the princely sum of £6.49 and has great coverage it
leaves a nice tacky feel for model with nice matte finish if you're doing a big
batch of spraying wear a protective mask you don't want to be breathing a lot of
this stuff in an essential step not to miss in this process is to do a Bane
impression
give the can a good old shake for about a minute or so and spray in short bursts
from about 30 centimeters or 12 inches away rotating the model as you go make
sure to catch from their top down and the bottom up and get all those all good
angles you can use whatever plastic primer you like just test it out first
on something till you get a feel for it especially if it's your first time make
sure it leaves a nice workable finish not too glossy and not too thick let
this dry a couple of hours to make sure that it's fully cured before we start
base coating we need to add our cracked stone texture I'm using citadels Agrellan Earth
but there are other crackle mediums available it doesn't need to
have a colour or pigment as we'll be painting all over this anyway so just
slop a bit of paint on the larger armor plates and flatter areas and also to the
base of the model avoid any sources of the blue lights like the energy coils on
the weapons paint it relatively thick the thicker the paint the more
pronounced the flakes and cracks will be to thin and it won't really be that
noticeable at room temperature this stuff cures fully in about 30 minutes if
the room is too cold it will take hours and hours to cure if you try using a
hair dryer to speed up the process the cracks will be smaller and more likely
to flake off so don't bother just give it some time
while we're waiting for the crackle paint to dry we can add some dirt
texture I'm using Citadel Armageddon Dust but you can use anything you like
to add texture PVA and fine sand super glue and garden dirt as well as random
spots on the model don't forget to add it to the base too now whatever you do
don't use baking soda and super glue I've seen a few people do this in other
videos and don't get me wrong it looks great but it isn't a good idea for the
long term sodium bicarbonate can react with your paints over time and create
weird globby crystals which ruin your paint job give the texture paint and
dirty for your house to dry it looks really bad and patchy right now but
it'll look awesome soon... hopefully
next up we're going to you base coat a nice khaki desert colour I'm using
Citadel's Zandri Dust spray any regular car key colour will do if you can't get
hold of this same deal is priming don't forget the mask and one coat should do
it at this point if you miss any areas or hard-to-reach spots touch it up with
another spray or get in there with a paintbrush then your paint on your
pallet with a tiny touch of water and hide any of that gray primer once your
base coat is solid it's time to apply an earth tone umber wash to the whole
miniature use something like Citadel's Agrellan Earthshade. Army painter strong
tone or any other brown tone shade you have apply a decent amount with a larger
brush and move the wash all around the model making sure it settles in all the
recesses you don't have to be super accurate here we're just creating the
darker shady areas but most of this will be covered by more layers of lighter
paints as I'm doing this demonstration as part of a two thousand point two army
speed paint I'm cheating a little bit and using my DIY earth tone dip wash
I'll make a video on how to make this inexpensive effective wash in the future
make sure to subscribe if you don't want to miss out let the model completely dry
as we don't want any moisture at all on the models for the next few stages
here's a side by side comparison of the Agrax Earthshade and my DIY dip wash the dip
washes on the Left earthshade is on the right
personally I prefer my own I would say that but it doesn't tea stain like a
agrax earthshade does and it seems to settle in the recesses a bit more and
has a richer tone all the more reason to subscribe and I'll show you how to make it
yep washing is also really good for staining your hands so don't be an idiot
like me and wear gloves also just a random notes I hope you're enjoying the
music I made it myself I work in the music industry by trade and this is a
soundtrack piece I created specifically for playing 40k I thought it would work
well in this video too. so back to the painting we're going to go back to
xandrie dusts and a method called dry brushing to build that kaki color back
up just a quick word on the brush we'll be using for the dry brush stages it
should be relatively large and flat at least compared to the model you're using
it for this will help coverage and save you
time it shouldn't be too precious as they tend to get trashed pretty quickly
and it has to be bone dry tap your brush in the little paint and start wiping the
brush on a piece of kitchen paper or cloth the idea is to get the paint off
the brush and spread it through the bristles this prevents streaks of paint
from appearing and builds up a subtle color we're not really that worried
about being subtle right now though as we're building the khaki color back up
from the wash we just want the brush dry enough that the paint won't get into the
nice dark recesses quickly sweep your brush back and forth trying to catch the
raised edges
to add a bit of realism to the stone effects we're going to sponge on some
gray paint to give a bit of natural variation I'm using citadels mechanicus
standard gray but really you could use any gray light or dark break off a bit
of kitchen sponge and dab it into the paint now it's a bit on some kitchen
paper or cloth again just like the dry brush stage we just did and how apply it
randomly to the miniature surface for extra variety go a bit heavier on some
models and lighter on others now we're going to apply a more sparing dry brush
of a light creamy bone color I'm using citadels of shabda bone but most paint
Rangers have a dedicated bone color that will work just fine slightly different
from my first dry brush try to remove a little more paint from the brush and
focus your strokes more on the raised edges don't overdo it as we still want
to see a good amount of that nice khaki base coat underneath now we'll add one
final layer of dry brushing this is really just to give a subtle lift to the
very tips and edges of the model for this I'm using screaming skull by
Citadel you can use any warm off-white you like or create your own by mixing
two parts of your bone with one part white again we're going to remove as
much paint as possible and be very sparing you may want to use a smaller
brush for this part as it's important that we don't overdo it
to complete our stone I'm going to add a warmer shade randomly over the models
using citadels Ryland flesh shade most paint companies make their own flesh
wash and it will do the same thing just adding a little bit of a warmer edge to
really complement the cold blue will be adding next in this video I'm using the
gloss version of rifle and flash shade which you shouldn't really do as it'll
add a gloss finish I'll be adding a matte varnish to these models when
they're completed but if you have the non gloss version use that instead and
when that washes dry the stain is basically done and now we can work on
the blues choose what spots on your model you want to be glowing blue and
let's block them in I'm using fillet hose medium blue citadels macragge blue
would be a fine substitute within your paints on your palette using a tiny bit
of water and get painting you might want to use a finer brush for this to you
accurately get the blue right up to the edges of the stone and don't worry too
much if you paint a little bit of the stone as we'll be creating a blue glow
anyway so it probably won't matter if you really mess up just break for the
blue to dry and fix it using your khaki color now I'm going to create this blue
glow using p3s arcane blue it's a great turquoise paint that really looks
awesome when used like this there are two ways of making this go effect the
first way and the way I'm going to be showing you in this video is by using
the airbrush and yes I can heat you groaning from here make sure to
subscribe and then an upcoming video I'll show you how to achieve this effect
using a paint brush it's still quite easy to do it just takes more time than
the airbrush I'm going to skip over the details of how to prepare the paint for
the airbrush because the only one you hopefully already know and this isn't
really what this video is about a little puff over the center of the deeper blue
areas and that's pretty much it with our brushes take a lot of patience to learn
how to use well and a lot of time to clean they're really worth investing in
if you're doing larger projects like this my awesome girlfriend bought me an
airbrush kit for my birthday and there's actually a great set is the
rebel starter set model three nine one nine nine at the moment I think you can
get them for about seventy pounds and they come with an airbrush hobby
compressors and paints than is another little bits and pieces you need to get
going so it's well worth looking at if you're
thinking about investing in an airbrush I also found a great bargain male art
brush on eBay for about ten pounds which has a much more narrow spread great for
creating effects like this to give the blue a bit more depth we're going to go
around the edges of the blue objects the parts with the blue elements connect to
the stone and add a little blue wash I'm using drak and half nightshade but any
blue wash will do vallejo's blue shade wash is also great make sure your brush
is a little damp load up some wash and carefully apply it to the edges to
finish off this glowing effect we're going to add a much brighter turquoise
mixing light with our turquoise and a little bit of water to the center of the
glowing blue objects for the mix I'm using Blue Hose white but any pure or
cool white will do and using a fine brush just tease the central areas and
I'm gonna pause the video right here because I discovered that it's really
difficult to paint find details on miniatures of the camera right in front
of your face and I messed up I've got
if the whole thing is ruined I completed the rest of this stage off-camera so I
apologize that you don't get to see the brushwork if you want to learn how to
improve your fine brushwork and edged highlighting there are loads of videos
out there made by people who are much better at it than me now to finish off
the blue areas I'm going to add a final glaze of government blue you buy citadel
this will enrich the blue and settle in the recesses which will also hide some
of my mistakes
now the models are pretty much complete let's paint the rims I'm using citadels
more and fine brown as it will set off the rest of the model with a slightly
warmer tone apply a little water to the paint and holding the model carefully
apply the paint around the rim you might want to add one or two more thin coats
to this to keep the color solid and prevent chipping in the future
and at this point we're basically done if you want to add a protective varnish
or lacquer to protect all that texture let your models cure for a couple of
days before adding your clear coat vanishing too quickly can sometimes make
strange things happen to the finish and change the appearance of your paints
once you're happy that models are totally dry apply a spray varnish just
as we did when we were priming and base coating the models you can also brush on
varnishes but be sure to follow the instructions on the label for a nice
little touch I added some foliage to the models and bases I use Java scum tree
sites Enix autumn brown lichen just pinch off a few little bits pop a bit of
super glue or PVA on the base or model and get the foliage in the right
position using tweezers or a cocktail stick helps you not get super glue all
over your fingers
and that's it as you've seen every stage was actually pretty easy but the overall
effect is really cool I hope you've enjoyed this video it's my first
painting tutorial so if you've got feedback I'd love to hear it let me know
in the comments what you'd like to see in the future and I'll do my best if
you're looking for a list of paints and materials used in this video you'll find
it in the description please like and subscribe and I hope to see you next
time Cheers
you