Hey, guys.
Today, I'm here with the Currie Antirock Front Sway Bar Kit fitting all 1997 to 2006 TJ Wranglers.
So an Antirock kit will keep your front sway bar connected at all times for extra stability.
However, when you go off-road, you will still get the same articulation and flex that you
would get if you disconnected your stock front sway bar.
So this is for TJ owners looking to take full advantage of their off-road performance with
a solid, well-built setup that you just don't have to touch.
So while everybody else is disconnecting their sway bar end links at the trailhead, you're
all set to go.
Speaking of sway bar end links, whether they are just a standard setup or you do have a
set of quick disconnect end links, you still have to disconnect them at the trailhead and
you have to find somewhere to store them, which can be time consuming and tools consuming.
But with this setup, that eliminates all of that and you don't have to disconnect this
at all.
This is even great if you have some worn stock components and you're looking to do a complete
upgrade.
So at the moment, this is gonna be roughly $500 on the website right now, and it's gonna
be the most affordable Antirock kit that we have listed.
Other more expensive options will be tuned differently, as well as have different functions.
But like I said before, this is a well-built and solid setup, so I definitely think that
this is worth the price.
Install is gonna be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, but it's nothing
that you can't get done in your driveway in roughly two-and-a-half to three hours.
So speaking of the install, let's jump into that now.
The tools that I used for my install was an impact wrench, a hammer, a 3/4-inch, a 19-millimeter,
an 18-millimeter, 16-millimeter, 9/16-inch wrench, a 15-millimeter and a 10-millimeter
ratcheting wrench, a ratchet, a 19, 15, 9/16-inch, 1/2-inch, and 10-millimeter socket, a measuring
tape, a small rubber mallet, and a large rubber mallet.
So our first step is to remove our front bumper.
I'm gonna be removing these two bolts here with a 19-millimeter socket.
However, if you do still have factory hardware, you'll be using a T55 torx bit.
Now, you also will have a bolt on the bottom here.
So after that last one is out, we can fully remove our front bumper.
So next, we have to remove our plastic cover up front.
We're gonna be using a 10-millimeter socket to remove these two bolts on either side.
So before we can remove our sway bar, we wanna disconnect our sway bar end links.
We have our JKS quick disconnects here.
So we're just gonna pull a pin.
However, if you have the factory hardware still, you will need an 18-millimeter wrench
and a T55 torx bit to get those disconnected.
But we have the Quicker Disconnects, so we can just pull this pin and slide it off our
retainer pin.
You can do the same thing on the other side.
Just make sure you are holding your sway bar because it will swing down.
Now, we can move up top and remove these bolts holding in our sway bar.
So now, we can remove the two 15-millimeter bolts that are holding in our sway bar mount.
I'm gonna be using a 15-millimeter socket on the front one, and then a 15-millimeter
ratcheting wrench on the back one since we don't have a lot of room to work with on this
back one here.
So now, we can completely remove our stock sway bar.
So if you do have JKS Quicker Disconnects, you will need to remove the bottom pin.
I'm gonna be using a 19-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench.
So with the new Currie Antirock system, you'll be getting balanced performance, as well as
some extra stability.
So as you guys know, when you go off-road, you do have to disconnect your sway bar end
links in order to increase your articulation and your up-travel off-road.
But when you go back on-road, you do need to reconnect those for a decrease in body
roll, as well as some controlled stability.
With this new setup, you'll be getting balanced performance, as well as some extra stability
and you won't have to disconnect your sway bar links at any time.
So as long as your end links are adjusted correctly to your setup, you will get all
of the same characteristics that you would with your stock setup with this new Antirock
setup.
So when you're hitting the trails, you won't have to disconnect your sway bar end links,
like I mentioned before.
So as long as they are adjusted correctly on your rocker arm, you'll be getting all
of the same benefits as you would with your stock sway bar disconnected.
So you're getting all of that instant articulation and up-travel with a connected system.
So as you can tell, right off the bat, that this new torsion bar-style setup that we have
with our new Antirock system will be a lot smaller than our stock sway bar.
However, it will be a lot stronger.
The rocker arms are also gonna be made of steel with a black powder coat finish, so
there's not gonna be any rust or corrosion on the metal here.
So speaking of the rocker arms, like I mentioned before, you are gonna have leverage points
where you can adjust your sway bar end links.
So if you want to increase your leverage for more articulation off-road, you can connect
your end links here at the end.
And if you wanna decrease your leverage for on the street for some tighter stability,
you can connect them more inwards.
You're also getting new bushings with this, as well as new sway bar end links.
Your new sway bar end links will be extended, as well as completely adjustable to your setup.
And you'll be getting a ball-and-socket-style end to each of the sway bar end links, unlike
the stock one with only one ball joint and a stationary bushing end.
So let's bolt up our new Antirock system.
So our first step is gonna be inserting our bushing here in the front crossmember tube.
Basically, you are just going to hold this in place.
You can either take a block of wood or a rubber mallet and hammer that into place.
Now, you can do the same thing on the other side.
So our next step is to grease up the inside of our bushing so we can slide our sway bar
through.
So now, we can insert our sway bar through our bushing.
You may need to give it a couple of taps with a mallet in order to get it through.
So when you're at this point, you want to line your sway bar up with the bushing on
the other side and tap that into place.
So once our sway bar is centered, we can go ahead and attach our rocker arms.
So now, we're ready to install our arm on our sway bar.
You want to make sure that all of the rivets inside match, and then you also wanna make
sure that it is parallel with your frame rail.
What I did, I greased up the inside just a little bit.
So now, you can take the short bolt, the lock washer, and the large flat washer and thread
that through the center of our sway bar.
You can tighten that down with a 1/2-inch socket.
Then, you can take the longer bolt and the supplied nylon lock nut and thread that through
the clamp style on the end of the rocker arm.
You can tighten those down with a 9/16-inch socket and a 9/16-inch wrench.
Then, you can do the same thing on the other side.
So now, we have to find the measurement to preset our sway bar end links.
So Currie recommended that we measure from the center of the center hole in our rocker
arm down to the center of our sway bar mount.
So it looks like from the center of our center hole down to our sway bar mount is roughly
11 inches.
So now that we have our measurement, we need to set up our sway bar end links.
So first, we're gonna install our jam nuts.
You will get two gold jam nuts that will be a reverse thread, and then you will have two
silver jam nuts that will be a standard thread.
Since these are new threads, they might get a little hard to tighten on there.
You can use a 19-millimeter wrench if you need to.
But you wanna thread them on so you have enough space to thread your end on.
Now, you can take your ends, and this is the part where they don't label for you.
You kinda just have to figure it out.
One will be a standard thread and one will be a reverse thread.
I think this is the reverse thread.
So we have a 5-inch lift on our TJ.
But if you have a smaller lift on your TJ, you may need to cut some of the end of the
actual bar off.
You can use a hacksaw to do this, and then you can attach your end links.
That'll give you a better measurement overall.
All right.
And we're at 11 inches.
So now, we have to tighten down our jam nut to make sure that those stay in place.
We will fully tighten those down in just a minute, after we assemble our second end link.
We can actually use our other end link for reference here.
So you will actually have to flip one of the links over, and then we can tighten it down.
You can do the same.
[inaudible 00:11:44] So now, we can tighten down our jam nut with a 19-millimeter wrench,
holding the sway bar end link stud end with a 3/4-inch wrench.
So now, we can install our sway bar end links.
So you're going to be securing these down with the 19-millimeter nylon lock nut.
Now, we can tighten down the nylon lock nut with a 19-millimeter wrench, holding the stud
with a 16-millimeter wrench.
You can do the same for the top.
Now, we can do the same thing on the other side.
So now, we can reinstall our plastic splash guard.
Now, because our rocker arm is right here, I would use a 10-millimeter ratcheting wrench
instead of the socket that I used earlier.
Now, we can tighten down all of these bolts with that 19-millimeter socket.
So that's gonna wrap it up for my review and install on the Currie Antirock Front Sway
Bar Kit fitting all 1997 to 2006 TJ Wranglers.
For more videos like this, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.