(rock music)
- Hey YouTube, Donnie Smith here,
and in this video, we're going to show you
how to apply some primer sealer,
and then we're going to show you how
to blend within a panel, some waterborne base coat,
and then we're going to apply some clear coat.
(dramatic music)
Alright, we've got this fender primed and blocked,
and now we're ready to wash it and get
it ready for the spray booth.
And I'm just rinsing it off with some water,
you know, get the underside real good,
because a lot of dirt is trapped under there.
You want to make sure all that dirt is out now
so it doesn't end up in the paint.
So just spraying it off real good,
and then I'm going to get,
and then I'm going to wash it.
And I'm just using soap, car soap,
and it does not have silicone in it,
make sure it's silicone free.
And I'm using a scuff pad,
you know, just to make sure,
it's just like the final time to make sure
everything is sanded right, you know,
just using that scuff pad to wash it
is basically all I'm doing.
So I'm going over the entire fender,
especially on the edges and hard to get areas,
and once it's good and washed, then I can rinse it off.
And this is going to help remove all silicones,
and make sure it's nice and clean.
Alright, now I have got the primer sealer here,
and I'm going to mix that up,
and I'm just using mixing cups.
You can use the computer system,
which is really more accurate,
but this works if you don't have a
computer system these cups work fine.
And you just look up the mixing ratio,
and it'll tell you on the cup what that is,
and then you mix it up.
I believe this is three, one, one.
Three parts primer, one part catalyst, one part reducer.
And another thing about primer sealer,
it's all about the gray shade.
What needs to go underneath that color,
and the way you find that out,
whenever you mix this paint coat,
it's going to tell you,
this uses like a G5, G3.
But it will tell you what shade
of gray should be under there.
And that helps you get the correct color.
And our computer system, like I said,
whenever you go to mix it up,
it'll tell you which one to use.
If not, there's some charts out there
that can help you out,
to give you an idea of how dark or light
the gray shade should be.
And this is going to help you have
the color match much better.
Okay, now, notice that I'm using
a regular paint gun here with a cup.
I used some paint strainers,
be sure that you do use paint strainers,
that you're not using like the 3M PPS system.
Now I'm going around, we've already washed the fender,
just going around with some wax and grease remover,
make sure it's good and clean.
Because we don't want no contaminants,
we don't want no fish eyes or anything like that.
So we're going to go around,
and this is a solvent based wax and grease remover.
And I was at a PPG school,
and they said it's best on this waterborne paint
to go around with a solvent cleaner,
and then go around with a waterborne based cleaner.
They say the waterborne based cleaner
really does a lot better job
of removing things like hand prints and things like that.
Notice I am wearing gloves now,
you don't want to touch the surface after this point.
So get it all wiped down good,
and notice I didn't have a spray bottle for this
waterborne solvent, or this waterborne cleaner.
So I'll put it on a wet rag,
and then I'll wipe an area down,
and then I use a dry one to dry it off.
Now you want to do a small area at a time,
you don't want to wipe the whole panel down
and then dry it at one time,
because it may dry on its own
before you're finished drying it,
and that's something you don't want to do.
You want to be sure that you dry it off with a towel
and not let any dry on its own.
Now this is a waterborne type of tack cloth,
notice I open it up, and I kind of popped it,
and you kind of have to open it like that,
you kind of have to pop it to release the adhesive in it.
Now this is a lot less tacky than your regular tack rags,
but they do a really good job,
there's never any lint that comes off of them or anything.
They really do a good job.
Now I've got a little self etch primer,
I had just a few metal spots,
so I just want to touch those up.
I'll let that dry for five to 10 minutes,
and now I am ready to spray the sealer, primer sealer.
And I've got three spots on here that I am primer,
using the primer sealer and painting.
Now there's enough of this fender,
I probably could have painted the whole fender.
Because I am blending in to the hood and the door.
But for this video purpose,
I want to demonstrate how to blend within a panel,
and then also in the other videos
where I'm blending the hood and door.
I'll show that too.
But notice how with the sealer up there,
I'm kind of shooting away from the center of that fender,
because I don't want a bunch of
over spray landing over there,
because if you get over spray
all down the middle of that fender,
well you're going to have to paint that whole fender,
so you don't want to do that, because we're trying to blend.
Now this is a viscosity cup,
and it measures the paint's viscosity.
And this is, with waterborne can be really handy,
let's say you had some left over,
and of course it's going to get thicker
because some of the water evaporated.
So you don't know how much to reduce it
with the waterborne reducer.
So you measure it, and it'll tell you,
if it's in between 18 and 24,
or whatever the technical data sheet says,
you know it's right.
If it's too thick,
you're going to have to add some more reducer to it.
So we measured this one, and it was right,
I'm having Jake time it.
And you pull it up, it has a hole in the bottom,
and you time how long it takes
the paint to go through the hole.
And after you see the stream break for the first time,
that's when you stop it.
So,
Like I said, with solvents, this is not as important,
because it's more of a three, one, one.
But waterborne is not really that way,
you just want the right viscosity so it will spray right.
Waterborne doesn't have a catalyst or anything like that.
It's just a, it just takes a reducer.
So getting everything cleaned up,
and that's a good idea with waterborne too.
If you let that stuff set up, it is hard to clean.
Now I've got the spray gun in there,
I am getting all the air out of the liner,
and that just allows you to spray at different angles
without interruption in your stream pattern.
Getting the gun set right,
and I can start spaying the base.
And notice that first, I'm going to go around,
I'm going to do the inside, the jamb areas.
And the reason I do that is because
I want to spray those and then do the outside of the fender,
because if I do it the other way,
spray the outside of the fender
and then come back and do the jambs,
it might have some metallic kind of
set on there a little bit different.
So I want to be sure that, the outside looks the same,
and there's no differences from
where I sprayed it from the outside.
So it helps metallic lay down better.
And now I'm putting on the first coat of base,
and notice that I am, well I'm kind of in the way there,
but I kind of get busy and forget.
But I'm not doing the whole panel,
I'm just going past the sealer area.
I'm not so worried about not getting it in the center,
I am letting some of that over spray go over there,
but I'm doing just the sealer area,
and then I'll put on another coat
and go out a little further.
And with waterborne,
it's necessary to use a dryer, like an air dryer,
it's not heat, it's just air, to help dry that.
Now some booths are equipped with that,
where you don't have to use these hand held dryers,
but this one is not.
And basically it uses the air in the booth, the movement,
and that little hand dryer kind of helps
recirculate that to help it dry faster.
Now something with base coat,
during your sealing process or base coat,
if you have any problems, you can fix them.
Like right here, I had a little bit of dirt,
of few things in it, it was setting on top,
so I just used the tack rag to kind of wipe them off.
Now if it was embedded in there,
I would need to lightly sand it,
and then put another coat on.
Alright, I'm putting the second coat on,
doing the same thing, going around the outside edges,
and then I'll do the center section.
And I'm going to go out
a little bit further with this blend.
But I'm still not doing the entire panel.
And getting all three spots, getting another coat on,
and now I'll have to come back
and dry it again with an air dryer.
Now one thing I do want to mention
whenever you're using these dryers,
you don't want to get too close.
If you get too close,
you might put little ripples in that when it's wet.
So just kind of stand back,
it's actually, like I said a minute ago,
it's using the air flow
in the booth helping recirculate that.
And I know this sounds like an extra step,
having to dry it, but really it's not.
Because really it's a lot faster,
with solvents you have to put a coat on,
allow it to dry for the recommended time,
put another coat on.
I mean this, you put it on as soon as it's dry,
as soon as it flashes and you see it dull out,
you're ready to put another coat on.
And if you have some dirt or whatever,
you can lightly sand it and then put another coat on.
So really it's a lot faster,
you're in the booth more,
you don't have time between coats
to mess around or whatever.
But it really is faster.
So getting the next coat on,
going out a little bit further with this blend.
And there I am in the way again,
and like I said,
I just get busy and forget about that sometimes.
Trying to get better at that
as I go on with these videos.
This is some old footage, by the way,
I lost it for a long time,
and I just found it and so I'm going
to go and finish this video series.
And this is actually from a couple years ago.
So I had some more stuff that I'm getting out,
probably some dirt or lint or something like that.
And notice I'm kind of using the
air too to blow it off as I'm brushing it,
so that it blows it away from the fender.
And now I'm just going to spot those spots in lightly,
and now I'm going to readjust the gun.
This is a tight coat,
and what you need to do with waterborne.
I turn the pattern wide open,
turn the pressure down to about half,
and now I'm going further.
It's a real fast coat,
you hold the gun about 12 inches away,
so you hold it pretty far back.
Go real fast and overlap real tight.
Alright, I've got the clear coat mixed up,
and now we are ready to start clear coating.
And I'm going to do the same thing with the edges,
because I don't want over spray
landing on the outside of the fender,
which may give it a dry appearance, or something like that.
So I always leave that outside for last.
So I'm going to put two coats of clear coat,
and notice with the clear coat,
I am doing the entire fender, both coats.
I'm not just doing a blend or anything like that.
I'm doing the entire fender with nice overlaps,
50% overlap, nice and even.
(rock music)
And clear coat, you know,
you want to put it on there wet.
Most clear coats recommend full wet,
because you want it really glossy,
unless you're spraying some of the mats
or something like that, it may be a little bit different.
Now I'm coming around with the second coat,
doing the outside again, or insides, the jambs and areas,
then I'll come back and do the outside.
And remember, with this last coat,
you want to put it on nice and glossy.
You really want to lay it out, lay it out there.
This is where you're going to
take some practice from getting runs,
because if you try to put it on too wet,
you're going to get runs.
So you just kind of find that spot where it's not dry,
but you don't get any runs either,
so that's just going to take some practice.
So I'm putting this last coat on,
nice and even, 50% overlap,
and we will have this fender ready.
And we can bring the car in here and get it ready.
And then we can put it all back together.
(paint gun spraying)
As always, thanks for watching these videos,
I really appreciate that.
If you like the video, be sure and give us a thumbs up,
give us a like, subscribe to us, if you haven't.
Share this with your friends, and remember,
if something is worth doing, do your best,
and have a blast doing it.
Thanks for watching, take care,
and we'll see you in the next video.
(rock music)