Hello welcome to Enots engineering I'm Alan
in today's video we'll be looking at the
lathe tailstock I'll be removing the tailstock from the lathe stripping it
down checking over all the parts seeing how it works
rebuilding it and fitting it back on the lathe so let's go into the workshop and see how it works
this week we're looking at the tailstock that's because I had a request from my viewer
asking if I could look at the tail stock
this tail stocks off the Boxford
this end is where we have a number two Morse taper to hold
the drills and chucks spindle lock there you send obviously is a handle you use
to wind in and out this part here is the part I made to give me an idea how
deep I'm going on a hole or anything and these part is a part I've added
down here we've got a grub screw on this side and the opposite side that centralises
the tail stock to the bed and then underneath this is a clamp and as I lift
this lever at the back that clamps the tail stock to the lathe bed
so what I intend to do in this video we will strip this down I haven't taken it apart for a long time
see how it all goes together and what
components are in there and what you can adjust
The first thing I'll do is wind out the quill untill it comes to the end
then you should be able to pull this through undo the lock pull that out
and the quill on this one that's 0 to 50mm on the top
0 to 2 inches on the bottom to give you an idea of the depth
on the end it's has a bronze thread that goes on the lead screw on this
there's a slot in the bottom to stop this turning and a grub screw there to
hold the bronze thread at the end. This particular one has got a number two
Morse taper machined in this end put that on one side.
what I'll do now is take the handle off
The handles held on with a grub screw I've made hole the part I fitted
So you can go straight through into the handle and undo the grub screw.
The handle will come off. this part comes off the handle.
As you can see this is just a plain diameter with the grub screw that goes through
and the grub screw locates in this dimple on the shaft
This part has a piece of spring steel that goes in there and all that does is drags on the diameter
Of this so that when you set it it moves with the handle and doesn't
just rotate freely it just makes it a stiff turn on here
So it will stay where you set the scale
To remove this there are two cap heads on the end
All these are Imperial sized bolts and screws because this lathe was made in the late 60s early 70s
when we were still using Imperial
that's the screw for the tailstock
you have a a locating bush there's no thread or anything in there
it just locates on the diameter and the handle locks that in position and then
this just pushes the quill forward or backwards in the barrel
That's the thread on there that's not a metric thread it's Imperial one turn it's
nearly 2mm but it's just about 0.02" over 2mm
so my metric scale is slightly out
when I need or if I ever need to make a new one of these
it'll be in metric so that'll be correct and they look quite easy to make
this is the end cap off the end I've added this alignment parts I can see
when this is on there what I'm reading
it's got an oil nipple in the top that puts oil into this part just to lubricate the shaft
there's another oil nipple on the top of this which
lubricates the thread and the quill
If I turn it around now you'll see that's the
bore in there there's a little peg Don't know if you can see through that
this is just the lock for the quill
Here is the zero position for your tail stock offset
if you're turning the taper you can pull the tail stock over
on this side we've got the clamping lever that works a cam
so this is normally in that position
with the bed between there and when you pull the cam lever it pulls this in and out
to lock on the bed
For adjustment you've got these nut on the end
so if you find when you push your lever forwards to lock it
if you find that it's coming over that far
What you can do is tighten that nut up on the bottom
you'll have to remove the tail stock from the end of the bed
so you can get up the nut
tighten it up half a turn and it will make the lever lock in a position further back
you can turn it to suit where you want the lever to be
sometimes when you're over here it starts to interfere with other things
that you're doing you want you to lock about there out of the way of your clamp
Thats the lever and a washer
This is the clamping part made of bronze again
that radius on there clamps on the quill
to lock it in the tailstock
that's just a stud with a hole round the side so that the bronze can fit in
this end you have a little peg which runs in the slot
in the bottom of the quill that just stops this turning
so if you're drilling a hole or your machining something
to prevent this turning round in the tailstock that little peg fits in that slot
the next thing we need to take off is the cam lock
Undo the nut on the bottom that's the clamping part that goes in the bottom of the bed
and clamps up to the bed to lock the unit
and then on this part you've have a grub screw down there which you can undo that
and that lets just leaver come out
on this lever you can see the cam as you turn this this cam on the end
pushes this bar in and out and that locks up to the the bed of the lathe
That goes in there and that little grub screw goes in this groove just to stop the
handle coming out when it's fitted
Theres not much more to strip down on this
the next thing to take off is the adjustment screws slacken that screw off
one on the opposite side slacken that off and that should remove
the bottom part with the tailstock and on this we've got a machined surface
the bottom fits in the V way on your bed this machine part here fits into the slot
on each side and on here you have two grub screws which go either side of this casting
and will offset the top of the tailstock either way depending on which grub screw you have tightened up
so I'll give this a clean down and then we'll start to reassemble it
okay reassembly
I've wiped it's over to get rid of any swarf or dirt
you can see each parts numbered on this you have your casting number
and the number of this particular base same on the tailstock body there's a number
stamped in there and this just locates over those two and then when this is on the
tailstock obviously your clamp leaver pulls all this down and locks it up
I've set it so that the zero is in line on the back
The first thing I'll do is screw these in
until they touch the casting i don't want to lock this up at the moment
I don't know whether it's will be true
I'll just nip that one up to hold the top on
So the next thing we can put on is the end cap and the main screw
That just pushes into there the end cap goes on here
and then there's are two cap heads go through
Next I will put the quill in.
This groove here is just the oil from this oil nipple on the top
It goes into this groove and will move along
On this end first of all I want to fit the ring this ring has a piece of spring steel
The spring steel goes across the counterbore and this fits in the end and hopefully the spring steel stays in
just wobble it down and it clips on and that should turn but be tight enough
to move with the handle and once that on all I need to do is align
the grub screw with the hole on this side put that on the shaft
in line with this dimple tighten the grub screw up
now this collar will move when ever I need to zero it and then when I turn the handle
it will move with the handle
So you push the quill in to engage the thread and just wind it in
now the lock you put the bronze part on so the curve will locate on the quill
there's a washer on the top and then the handle
locking handle so when you lock that down it pulls the bronze part into the quill
and locks the spindle
The cam unit this goes on up that way so that this grips under he bottom of the bed
and that goes into the bottom
There are no washers on this this nut will fit into the slot
I'll just put it about halfway and see how that goes when I fit it on the bed
that will need adjusting
Next job is to put the handle in
The handle to go through there
don't push it right home because you need to get this in the middle
see there this bar goes in has to go through that bar and that locks
just goes there
now all this is together I'll just nip this each side
to stop it falling off when I pick it up
and then also when I put the clamp on this gap here then
this will pull the top down onto the base
let's go over to the lathe and fit this on
Make sure the cam lock is at that position line up this so it fits under the bed
I just want to tighten the nut a quarter of a turn
that fits in the bed
that's okay to lock in that position
if you find it's too far down or too far over you need to slide it back off
and then what you're actually doing underneath
you take that out the slot turn the nut round drop it back into the slot
and then fit the tailstock back on the lathe
When you fit it on make sure your lever is down otherwise you're trying to fit it with the clamp on
and when you pull the clamp up now that's locking in that position now
so what I need to do is tighten that nut up one flat
Place it back in
so you get the handle in the position you want when it locks
now the handle locks in that position before it was down there or if your
handles coming all the way over then you can just tighten the nuts up a bit and
all you're doing is shortening the rod down with the nut so it locks sooner or
later so once that's on put the clamp on
with the allen key slacken these two off
these are the adjustment for the taper
put the clamp on again and you can see the gap on each side has gone there because it's pulled this down
slacken the clamp off tighten this one up at the back
and it's pulling the tailstock backwards so I can get the zero mark lined up
once the zero marks lined up tighten the front one up and that clamps
the tailstock between the two grub screws on the part of the casting inside
so that's not going to move the only thing you need to do is check if you're
doing any work between centers or when you're going to drill
check that it is in line with your tail stock because even if it says it's on zero
it still might be out of line slightly
because I've cleaned it all and wiped all the oil off it
all I'll do is put some oil in the top there so it lubricates the spindle
and to oil this one on the end I've made a cut out made a cutout in there
line that up with the hole and then you can put the oil can into the end pump some more oil
wipe the excess oil off
well that's it for today I hope that was useful and we'll see you next time on
Enots engineering