To start we will need a Jig hook like these 9230\'92s from Risen Fly and we will also
need to pair a slotted tungsten bead with the hook, like these really cool looking,
dirty olive ones also from Risen Fly. The easiest way to put the bead on the
hook is place the bead in your hand and bring the hook point to the bead.
Place the hook and bead securely in your vice.
Note that the bead needs to be oriented the right way to seat properly into the hook bend.
For thread I really like this Veevus 10/0, and today Im using brown.
Start the thread right behind the bead, and snip or snap off the waste.
Then build a bit of a thread bump in between the bead slot, and behind the
bead to keep it locked into place. Bring your thread down slightly into
the bend of the hook and then back up to a hook eye shy of the bead.
Now we need some micro ultra chenille, or if your getting this brand they call it super chenille.
Today Im using chartreuse. Cut enough length to work with,
maybe about 2-4 inches. Then burn the tip of the
chenille with a lighter to form a round darkened spot on the end of the chenille.
Measure the chenille so its about 1/4 of a hook shank length off the back of the hook.
Then tie it down with some tight wraps, all the way back to the hook bend.
Then cut off the waste. Now we need some black or brown soft hackle. This
whiting hen wet fly saddle will work perfectly. You will want some short fibers,
so Im grabbing the smallest feathers towards the bottom here (technically
actually I think its the top of the saddle) To prepare this feather for tie in, strip off
the fibers where you can see they change to fuzzy. We dont need many so Im actually stripping
off even more than just the fuzzy ones. Now that the fuzzies are stripped off, grab just
the tip of the feather and stroke the remaining fibers down to leave a small tag to tie in.
Also it helps to cut the excess part of the tag off close to leave
a triangular type tie in tag like this. The feathers curve as you can see, and
you will want to tie this in on the side of the hook so that curve is angling in towards the fly.
Grab the stem of the feather with this type of hackle plier and proceed to make touching
wraps while stroking back the fibers with each wrap. This will form what look like the legs of
a caddis trying to pull itself out of its casing. Tie down the stem with tight wraps and then clip
it off close. Actually a trick is to wrap back up on the stem so it wont pull loose
and then just snap it off with a quick tug. Wrap back up on top of the fibers to angle
them all rearward, and then we need some wire. If you remember last week I had a spool that
was almost spent. The wire section I pulled off was enough for many flies
and I needed the same wire for this fly, so I am using it. It is a brassie sized Gold wire.
A trick to tie in the wire is stick the tip of the wire between the tungsten slot to hold
it and keep it from spinning, and then make tight wraps, keeping the wire even
on top of the fly. Wrap up to the bead and then back down to the feather legs.
Now we need some dubbing. I find rabbit dubbing works really well because it has some guard hares
and dubs on really evenly. Today Im using a dark olive/brown color, but really you could
use any combo of dubbing, bead, chenille and even feather colors here. Try to match the caddis and
their casing at your local creeks and streams. Dub on a fairly thick and messy looking noodle.
Proceed to make touching wraps up the hook shank trying to create an even body.
Add more dubbing if you need to insure you get all the way up to the bead.
Now to create a bit of ribbing and add a little shininess, make spiral wraps
over the dubbing with the wire and then capture it with some tight wraps and you
can just simply helicopter the wire off flush. Now you can whip finish your fly, But try to end
with the whip finish on top of the hook like so. You could use any type of head cement here,
but I my favorite is this solarez Ultra Thin resin. It comes with a handy paint
brush that you can use to dab a little on the whip finish before curing it hard with their
UV light. It will help keep this fly from coming apart through multiple fish strikes.
And there we have it, the finished peeking caddis. Throughout most rivers, you will find little
caddis casings stuck to the bottom of rocks or drift wood. They can be shaped in little
boxy rectangles, or cylinders. Some use little bits of wood, some use pebbles,
and they are about as versed in colors as the caddis themselves. So go to your local river
and pick up a few rocks and inspect your local bugs to see what best colors will mimic them.
Let me know in the comment section what color caddis and casings are in your local rivers.