Recently we explored how to make your clutch lighter.
It focused more on hydraulic clutches.
Now it's time to focus on the cable clutch, much loved by Japanese manufacturers.
It's important to remember most of these clutch mods use extra leverage.
You usually need the full movement of the clutch lever to disengage the clutch.
If you have long fingers, this can be an advantage because it provides more 'feel' to the clutch.
But if you have short fingers, this may not suit you.
The very first modification?
If you have long fingers, simply move your clutch lever to the left.
This provides extra leverage if you can still reach the lever.
Also keep your clutch lever close to horizontal.
Riders who stand on the footpegs a lot sometimes put their clutch lever at a 45% angle.
But when you are sitting this will cause a lot of fatigue for your clutch hand and fingers.
A longer clutch arm.
Some riders just cut the 'clutch arm' and weld or
screw in a longer section to provide more leverage.
It doesn't need much extra length to make a big difference.
Alternatively, source a 'clutch arm' from a different model that is slightly longer.
This DRZ400 part works really well on the DR650.
Just loosen your clutch cable and remove the stock clutch arm.
The DRZ400 clutch arm is 8mm longer which makes the clutch 21% lighter.
The gold anodising should add 10 horsepower as well.
'Easy pull levers'.
These are sometimes called 'stunt clutches' and rely on extra leverage as well.
Some levers provide adjustment so you can adjust
the lever to sit further or closer to the handlebar...
but generally the lever will need a lot of movement to fully disengage
the clutch so short fingers may have trouble.
Beware of manufacturers claiming up to 50% less pull.
Generally you can only expect about 20%.
Do your research.
Some owners report certain brands were a waste of money.
A similar mechanism is the 'Easy pull add on'.
It's also called an 'easy pull clutch kit', or easy pull clutch system'.
Again it's using extra leverage.
These are usually mounted at the handlebar and personally I don't like the added complexity.
Beware of ridiculous claims such as 80% reduction in clutch pull.
Who are they kidding?
One potential advantage is your clutch cable
becomes longer which could be useful if you fit bar risers.
What about methods that don't involve leverage?
There are three methods that involve reducing the clutch spring tension.
This can lead to clutch slipping so try these at your own risk.
First.
Google around and see if riders have found lighter clutch springs
that can replace your stock clutch springs.
You have a degree of adjustment available.
If your clutch has four bolts, you can just try two lighter springs at first.
If your clutch has six bolts, you can try either two, four or six lighter springs.
It's easy to check for clutch slipping.
Just accelerate at full throttle through all the gears on a sealed road and check for slippage.
An extreme test is to pull the clutch in while in top gear,
rev the engine, then drop the clutch and see if there is any slippage.
The second method.
If your clutch has six bolts, you can simply remove two bolts and springs.
Your clutch will be 33% lighter.
Again, this is completely at your own risk.
I have tested this on my enduro motorbike over the past year with no problems.
Personally I would not do this on a road or adventure motorbike.
And a 33% reduction will probably cause clutch slipping on most motorbikes.
Does it unbalance the clutch?
I've google around to see if anyone had problems, but nothing to report yet.
The third method?
Add 1mm washers so that your clutch springs aren't as compressed.
The washers need to be small enough to fit inside your clutch springs.
The potential problem?
If you use too many washers, the bolts will hit the inside of your clutch cover.
I used 2mm wide washers without problems on my enduro motorbike.
I have not tried this on the DR650.
Riders usually report a 10 to 15% reduction clutch pull.
Search the forums to see if other riders have tried this modification on your type of motorbike.
Generally it will just be safer to buy lighter clutch springs.
The most expensive way to get a lighter clutch?
Ditch your cable clutch and fit an aftermarket hydraulic clutch.
Personally, I don't think it's worth the expense when you only experience
perhaps a 10% reduction in clutch pull at best.
A final note.
Maintenance!
Cable clutches become tougher as lubrication dries up, or dirt slowly creeps in.
Remember to lubricate your cable on a regular basis.
You can buy cable lube tools for this.
Ensure you have the usual dust caps to decrease the chances of the cable getting dirty.
If a previous owner fitted a cheap low quality clutch cable it may
have more friction than a genuine clutch cable.
Ensure the cable doesn't make any tight turns as this increases friction.
What methods have you tried?
Any handy tips for various motorbike models?
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