hello i'm Graham Houghton and welcome to part two of this new series covering the panasonic
Lumix Fz800 or 82 bridge camera and in fact it will cover the FZ 200 and the
330 and also the 1000 and 2000 as well for some of the setups we're looking at today.
Today i want to look at how you can change the way your images look by changing the photo style
if you're using the fz80 or 82 camera in the iA or iA plus mode you're limited to just two photo
styles one is colour and the other is black and white so very limited range of what you can use
the camera for so i do encourage you to move away from the iA position which also brings in lots
more digital effects which can actually destroy your images. At least switch to the P mode which
then gets rid of the fully auto mode and puts you into a program auto mode a lot more decisions you
can make yourself rather than have the camera make them for you if you're in the P mode or probably
the aperture priority or shutter priority mode you'll get access to the whole range of photo
styles after we've looked at the photo style setup we'll look at how the camera meters for exposure
generally the camera does fairly well but there are some situations will actually
fool the exposure meter typical would be beach scenes or snow scenes where you will be
typically under exposing your image and they appear to be grey so you have grey snow or grey
beach rather than the natural colour you'd expect i'll show you how you can compensate for that
if you're not happy with the results that the whole area mode gives you you can revert to
what's called the center weighted and that's good for portraits redone takes the center of the image
and uses that the exposure determination or if you've got a particularly tricky situation such as
saying you're shooting the moon while there's only a small area against a large black area the spot
metering can actually give you a perfect exposure if you put the spot over one of the craters on the
moon and that will give you the perfect exposure so i'll run through all those modes then we'll
look at how you can use exposure bracketing to ensure that you get the correct image
even if the lighting situations are changing and you're not quite sure how much exposure
value compensation to apply using the bracket and exposure method will at least ensure that
you capture one image with a perfect exposure and if you want to use those images for
stacking and to give you more dynamic range then you could use those as well but that's for another
topic so let me set up the camera and we'll shoot some scenes here at Liverpool castle which is
in Rivington it's built as a replica of the old Liverpool castle and i'll take you through some
of the photo style setups and how we can change the appearance so i'll set up the camera now so i
can film the back of the f-set 80-82 camera and you can see i've got a shot here of one of the
ruined parts of the castle um it's in cross light so we've got sunshine and shade so
that should be good for testing the contrast range of the camera we're going to look at the
photo styles and to access that if you're in the iAmode as i mentioned earlier if you press menu
set you notice that if we go into photo styles you've only got standard or monochrome which
is very limited choice so if you go into the p mode and again go into photo styles
you now see we've got the whole range of photo styles available to us but i recommend that you
don't use the program auto mode use the aperture priority mode and then you can set that to
what you need for your scene or if you're shooting sports then use shutter priority
here i've got an extension of about 70 millimeters so my aperture is 5.4 and i can actually adjust
that down to 4.3 so i'm going to set it down to 4.3 there'll be absolutely maximum depth of field
in that shot for us so photo styles pressing menu set takes us into the record setup menu and you
can see photo style is highlighted there if you press the menu set button it brings you into the
options now so you can actually change things like the contrast sharpness noise reduction
and saturation so what i'm going to do first of all is take a picture with all those values
set to zero and we'll see how the camera responds i'm going to use a two second timer
so that you don't get any camera shake as you do that so here goes the first exposure
so we've captured that exposure can have a look at that in the video now with the photo styles
enabled again one of the recommendations i make if you aren't going to edit your pictures you
just want to put them onto social media or put them onto your web page it's just to slightly
increase the sharpness maybe just two points nothing more than that otherwise you might notice
sharpening artifacts but what i do recommend is to use the noise reduction and set that down to
-5 which effectively turns off noise reduction you'll find that you get a little bit more noise
but you'll get more sharpness in the image so let's take that second image with the new values
you can see that we've got a little bit more sharpness
with that setting so if we go back into it if you want to increase the saturation let's say
it's a dull day and you want to increase the colour saturation then again you can increase
the saturation or with the contrast if it's an overcast day you might want to
increase the contrast here it's quite sunny and bright so i'm trying to decrease the contrast
to -2 and i feel that i can use that adjustment in my editing process if i
want to add contrast back so i'm going to set that to -2 and let's take that picture
let's look at the other photo style so that's the standard one
if we go up to the top line we can then go into vivid and again again again see
we've got all the options there to set contrast sharpness noise reduction and
saturation so i'll leave those at zero and let's just take one with a vivid setting
and again we'll take a look at the next one which is natural so this is
more of a natural flat profile
and so look at the next one which is monochrome so it gives us our monochrome setting but in this
one we can actually this is our monochrome setting and if we scroll down we've got contrast sharpness
noise reduction saturation and then filter effect so we can actually apply filters here
so if we scroll to the right we can have a yellow filter which enhances the blues
an orange filter again which in your hands is greens and you've got these various filters
so you can actually improve the appearance of your monochrome picture
so just set that to off and we'll do a standard monochrome shot
and the next one
if i go back up to the top is scenery and this enhances blues and greens
so this is a good one for landscape photography and again you've got the options in there
to change your saturation and contrast if you felt it necessary
then we've got portrait which gives a more natural skin tone slightly enhances reds and gives a
slightly softer appearance so it's not really suited for this scene but we'll take it anyway
and the next one is the custom so when you set up a profile so if we go back to standard
and we like what we've got here in our adjustments you can actually save that
as a custom so we can save our setup that we've achieved in the standard photo style so if we
quickly go back into there you can see over on the left hand side the display button will actually
save that image and it will save it to the custom menu so if i press display it will now save that
to the standard settings and say yes now if we went to the custom profile which it switches to us
automatically you can see that those values have been set into the custom profile
so now we've taken a quick look at the photo styles and how you can customise them for your
own particular type of photography let's have a look at how the camera meters for exposure
so if we go back into the menu setup and they're on page 207 of the record setup screen you know
metering mode is the second option down and you can see if we press that we've got three choices
hull area center weighted and spot so first of all let's take a shot with the whole area so
it's going to take the whole brightness across the whole picture to determine what the exposure
is so let's just take that shot so it's given us an exposure there of f 4.3 shutter speed of 160th
with the iso that i've set manually down at 80. so now let's go to the center weighted so this
is now taking a portion from the center of the screen and you see it's given the same exposure
which you'd expect because it's a very neutral tone if we switch into the spot metering
then you can see in the middle of the screen we've got a small
um cyan cross which is where it's taking the exposure from so being in that neutral area
it should be giving us roughly the same exposure 4.3 the exposure has gone to 100 so it's slightly
longer but if i move that spot into a darker shadow area if i try to get into a darker area
you notice now the camera is saying the exposure is a 60th of a second so it's measuring from a
very very small area this is where you have to be a bit savvy as to what you're metering
so you want to look for something of neutral tone which is going to be that grey wall so
that's going to give us the exposure a 1 125th f 4.3 so that is how the metering circuit works to
give you the exposure but if you find that your image is looking a little bit underexposed and
if i felt that shot there was underexposed we've got what's called exposure compensation and that's
achieved by using the dial here on the top if you press that in it switches from the control
of aperture in aperture priority or shutter speed and shutter priority it changes over to allowing
you to change the exposure value compensation you notice if i go towards the minus side
the image goes darker and if i go to the plus side the image brightens so you can use this to affect
how the camera is going to display the scene so if i want to make this little appear darker to
catch some more detail in the sky then i'm going to go to -1 so again let's take that picture
and that is going to be the image that you see in the video
let's just change this back to center weighted again the exposure looks about the same
so let's just take that picture we've seen more detail in the highlights obviously
the cloud we can actually bring that up in our post-production and to increase the brightness
of the shadows so a typical example would be plus exposure value compensation for shots on snow
normally the camera tends to underexpose on snow because it's seeing such an expanse of white
that he wants to try and make that neutral grey and it does that by underexposing so you've got
to tell the camera i don't want to do that i want you to give me a normal exposure and then you
would dial in positive exposure if you've got a lot of black in the central area then you want to
use minus to stop the camera from over exposing so this is the iconic lithium wind mode unfortunately
the cells are away for repair at the moment so it doesn't look as good as it normally does but
it's still going to be a challenge for the FZ82 because of the strong cross light on it so we've
got bright highlights and deep shadows and so this is a case where exposure value compensation might
come into play because of the brightness of the subject against a fairly light background which
is the sky so we're going to be using exposure value compensate for this shot and it will be
with plus two-thirds and with plus one to overcome the fact that the subject is white so i'll take
the first shot at zero and then the second at plus two thirds and the third at plus one
now i did mention that we could look at bracketing and bracketing allows you to set the camera up to
give a series of exposures at a predetermined sequence so if you're going to the menu
and you go down to bracket if you press menu set bracket type is off if you press it one more time
you can see that we can get into plus or minus exposure compensation so we press
that and now it gives us more settings which is the sequence so we can go from
seven stops on either side of the correct exposure with one exposure value increment between each of
those pictures or two thirds between each increment or a third between each increment
normally i would go five and go with a third of an exposure increment between each picture
and then you can set the sequence so it starts off under exposed
and then progresses to the over exposed so that is the sequence that i would normally use
once you've set that now when you take the picture and again i'm going to use that two second timer
the camera will take those five exposures between the minus and the plus and one of
those will be the correct exposure as you can see in the video at the moment
so that's it for today's video and i do hope you're finding it useful in the next
part i'll be looking at the focus modes and which one to use for different situations
i'll also be taking a look at the 4k photo modes and how you can extract stills from them
to capture their precise moments in the sequence of events that you're looking for so until then
thanks again for watching please do take care and i hope to see you all very very soon.