Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com, and today we're going to be working with the clutch
on our 2016 Yamaha YXZ1000R. Now as you can tell, there's a little bit of a color difference
on this case. That's because we've already done a gear reduction kit on this particular unit.
But now we're going to address the clutch system on it because we're actually adding a turbo to
this unit, and we need it to be a little bit more robust. So let's step over to the table
look at the system that I chose and then we'll get started.
All right, the one that I went with is a GYTR kit, and this one with a standard
shift which is what we have, has about 25 percent more grab or can handle 25
more power. And that's really going to come in handy when we start cranking up the boost on this
particular unit. Now this particular part number has these different pieces, but you'll also need
to order the necessary plates and the fiber disc as well. Now you need to order 13 of the fibers
and 12 of the metal, and don't forget your gasket on the outside. Well now that we've
got our parts assembled, let's open up that side cover and go ahead and get this project finished.
As you can tell I've already been inside of this unit pretty extensively, and if you're going to do
a gear reduction kit on yours I want you to look at this unit's playlist and i can walk you through
the process to pull that off. Now the outer cover is just held in place by several eight millimeter
head bolts, but you want to take notice the three at the bottom have copper washers. So
just take note of where those come out so you can get them back in the right place. Now if you forget
which locations they go in, Yamaha has arrows that I can show you later down on that section
that pretty much point to where they go. I believe this next one I'm doing is one of the three. Yep.
All right, there we go. Now guys granted, I'm doing this on the table
and the unit doesn't have any oil in it. If you're doing this probably in the unit, I would suggest
go ahead and drain the oil out of it anyway. We'd want to start fresh. Usually on the clutch
you've got springs all the way around, this is your spring. That one big plate and it's held in by six
10 millimeter head bolts. With the new kit we'll be replacing these bolts because
with that larger basket it comes out further and guess what? They would hit that outside cover.
So just remember that. As you can see, this particular unit had a Rekluse clutch--
soon to be for sale on ebay-- that we're not going to be reusing.
So plan of attack here is to get everything removed, especially the basket itself, because we
need something off of it. We actually need the gear in the inner-section on the back side that we're
going to transfer over to the GYTR. And what you'll need is a 30 millimeter, and I'm going to be using
an impact to take it apart, but you do not want to use the impact to put it back together of course
because well, it's going to have a specified torque.
All right guys, it's important that you lay things out in order as they come off,
but if this unit has already been worked on before? Well, you really need to reference
our exploded parts diagrams that way you can be sure you get the pieces back in the right order.
Now granted this particular unit had been modified: it had the Rekluse kit on it.
If yours is completely stock, you're going to have a different combination of jutter plates
and springs and half disk... none of that's going to matter, because when we go back with the GYTR kit,
all of this goes away and then we're going to put in a set of 13 fiber discs and then
12 of the metal discs. So whatever you had in here is really not important at this stage
of the game, because what we're after is that ring right back there, as well as that washer.
All right, I'm just inspecting all of these to make sure they're good to go.
I believe so. All right guys while we're prepping everything and getting it ready,
now would be a good time to go ahead and soak the fiber discs... a good 15-20 minutes
should do it... and you can just use standard oil for this, nothing special. We just want
to make sure that those fibers are all well permeated with oil before they get put into use.
All right guys, while those are soaking, we will dive in
to remove this outer gear. Now there's a couple of different ways you can do this. You can put it
on a drill press and drill each one of them out. I prefer to use a side grinder, hit it from the side,
cut it off even with this plate and then it'll lift off. Now I want to caution you though:
make sure all that your other clutch pieces are away from this process, because all of this
flying debris, this metal? It's going to travel a fair amount of distance and we don't want
to contaminate all those brand new parts that we're about to put inside of this transmission.
There we go.
There she is. I scuffed it in a few places, but not enough to mess with this balance, so we're good.
Next we just want to remove each one of the cushions. You do need to take note
of their orientation. Let's go ahead and see if we can separate it without having to press it.
There we are. That's what we're after.
This minus all those shavings. So we are going to clean this up before it goes onto the the new
clutch basket. Next let's prep the clutch basket by removing the 10 4 millimeter hex bolts. Now when we
go to reinstall these, we're going to want to use red loctite and then torque it to 7.4 foot-pounds.
Now notice of course that these are beveled edges, so that's the side that's going to be facing out.
Don't reverse it. All right guys, we've got the pieces that we needed
off of the old basket, we've got our cushions-- and if yours are looking rough I would suggest
you go and replace them. Here's the gear that we needed as well as the shim and that thrust washer.
Now to do this, to make sure we line up everything correctly, we're going to go
ahead and get our thrust washer in place and it needs to be all the way down into this edge.
And our shim...
And now we're going to bring our basket down.
Make sure that it's all the way down and not caught on one of those washers.
That should be it.
Now you'll notice that it's going to be sitting a little bit high,
but once we put on that rear plate it's going to press that thrust washer in. But now
we can go ahead and put in our cushions and you want the lettering to be facing up.
All right, now we've got our hex bolts, that came in the kit, our retaining plate.
You want to add a little bit of red loctite and then tighten them to 7.4 foot-pounds.
And we're going to do this in a pattern going alternating from
one side to another until we get them all done.
Now the very last one, go one more just to make sure that first one
that you torqued is still at the correct value.
So we've got our thrust plate and then the stepped washer
that go in first. And honestly they didn't really need to come out, I just wanted to check them.
Now we can go ahead and put in our collar and our needle bearing.
From here on out this is just like installing a regular clutch,
the hard part's done. That is a lot of a lot of space for some plates, and that's what we're after.
Next we can get in this spacer, and of course it's the one-- or washer-- and it's got grooves cut in it.
Next we can get in our clutch emboss,
then this washer, the flat one.
And then you've got this one which actually says "out" on it make sure that's facing this direction.
Then you want to install a new nut because we have to stake it at that little area right there.
That's all looking good, we're at the correct
depth, so now you're going to need a clutch boss holder because like I said earlier:
impact's great for taking it apart but not the way you want to put it together.
I think this Henson will fit on it. Yeah. And now we're going to torque that to 76 foot-pounds.
Let's see if I ate my Wheaties this morning.
Am I close? No, not even close. Only at 40 something foot-pounds.
And we're going to bring in my lovely assistant Tracy.
All right.
There we go. Tracy not included. You have to go find your own. All right without making too much mess,
let's go ahead and bring our plates over.
And this is just a standard build. You've got a fiber, metal, fiber, metal, all the way out.
A much less complicated system that you can expect when you engage it, it's going to engage
hard. And it's not quite as user friendly as the Rekluse setup, but I don't plan on treating this
machine with kind gloves. I'm going to thrash it, and this clutch is gonna be able to put up with it.
Hard to believe it'll swallow up all these discs, but it did.
Now we just need to get in here and stake that nut to make sure it doesn't move.
That should do it.
All right, important that you don't forget your your pin right here,
otherwise it's not going to work too well.
A little bit of oil down into our bearing.
All right, let's close her up.
That is looking good.
Now I've got a wear ring that goes here. It self-aligns for the most part.
Now the new bolts, they already have some loctite on them. I'm going to add a little bit more
blue to them just for peace of mind. And these are Torx head bolts, T30s. All right, for my build,
I'm actually installing a new spring. Yours is probably okay. I just want to make sure.
All right, let's get these bottomed out.
Aand we're going to torque them to 5.86
foot-pounds. Use this soft screwdriver to hold things still for us. And we'll do it in
a criss-cross pattern, probably take us a couple of times around to get them all done. One more check.
Just in case you were curious, all those dinosaur sounds you hear in the background?
That's your parts getting shipped.
That is a thing of beauty. I like it. Let's get that outer cover on.
Not perfect, but better. Okay our dowels are in place, let's drop in our gasket.
Stay.
All right guys, don't forget your bottom three are gonna have these little copper washers, and
you can see the little arrows here, here, and here. They're pointing to those particular
locations. Now let's go ahead and go around and tighten everything down to 7.2 foot-pounds.
All right guys, that's going to wrap up the actual installation of the clutch kit, but
there's still one more thing you have to do: the machine needs to be told where the clutch
engagement point is going to be set. And the only way you can do that is if you use the YDS system,
which is proprietary to Yamaha. So unfortunately, you're going to have to take it to the dealership
to have them do this. Now me? I've still got a whole lot more work to do, so if you want to watch that
happen, you may want to subscribe to our channel that way you can keep up with well the progress
that we're going to make on this particular unit. Well listen, if you need any parts for your machine,
why don't you come see us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of. If you have any
questions or comments about this video, leave them in the section below and i'll do my best to answer
them. And hey, if you want to see me continue on this project go ahead and hit that subscribe
button that way you'll be notified when we drop the next video. We just want to say thank you
for shopping here with us at partzilla, and we will see you in the next video. You all have a great day.