Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com. Welcome back to our final installment of our
engine rebuild on our 2011 Polaris Sportsman 850. As you can tell we've got her all put
back together from the previous episodes. We've got our piston and ring assemblies put
in there, checked the head, checked the seats, the valves, all that looked good.
We've got our timing set. She's complete and ready to go back in there.
So what I'm going to do on this final installment is just reinstall it, get everything hooked
back up, the systems bled back off, fill it back up with radiator fluid and oil and I'll
talk a little bit about the break-in procedure. So, let me get this thing dropped down this
thing slid over, and get it installed. Let's get started.
Alright, this isn't a requirement, but this gasket has a habit of falling down. I'm just
putting a little bit of sealer on there just to hold it in place. It makes life a lot easier.
Next, you want to go ahead and grease the input shaft going into the transmission. It
was looking a little rusty before. Now don't strain your back too bad, but just
kind of walk her in there from the side and then straddle it to hold it in place.
Be careful not to damage any of the hoses-- especially that one that goes to the foot
brake. Now it's just a matter of using a couple of
different prybars to lift the motor in place and get it to line up on that input shaft.
I made it a little bit easier by actually tilting up the front face of the transmission.
I recommend using a little Loctite on the transmission to engine bolts once you get
it slid in. Alright, there are seven bolts that hold the
engine to the transmission and the torque value for each one of those is 18 foot-pounds.
Alright, with the transmission bolted to the engine, next we need to go ahead and get the
motor mounts in place. You have to use a prybar to lift up on the engine to get those holes
to line up. Then you can go ahead and secure that 14mm bolt which actually bolts it to
the frame. Alright, let's go ahead and start working
on the intake that has been zip-tied up out of the way.
Let's get the fuel rail in place with the injectors.
Get them bolted down to the intake plenum. Next, go ahead and plug in your injectors.
Don't forget that one bolt down at the bottom. Alright, next we can go ahead and put in the
throttle bodies. Keep in mind that that intake air duct and the bolts that pass all the way
through it-- it all goes together like it's one unit.
No gaskets because it actually has O-rings built into either side of the throttle body.
Plug in your crankshaft position sensor. Now would be a good time to go ahead and put
the engine ground wire in place. Next, plug in your stater output.
Before you put in the fuel tank it's a lot easier to go ahead and snug down that lower
radiator hose and get it clamped in place. Now let's go ahead and work on the prop shaft
that goes to the front. Remember you want to slide it on to the transmission
end first and then you can knock her forward and then push that pin back through. You want
to make dang sure that you've got it aligned properly to where that pin will go all the
way through the shaft itself. Now we can go ahead and slide in the fuel
tank. Just a couple of bolts in the top of it to
hold it in place. Next, go ahead and reinstall your fuel line
to the fuel rail from the fuel tank itself. Just push the ends on and then slide that
white clip in to lock it in place on both ends.
Next let's go ahead and get that frame spar back in place. Kinda put them in there loose
to begin with until you get them all four started. And then snug them down.
Now we can go ahead and put in the exhaust headers.
And notice that those studs actually pull through. I'm just going to put them back in
the same way. Want to go back and forth on several of the
bolts to make sure it snugged it down all the way.
Alright, now we need to go ahead and run the upper radiator hose up to the top of the engine.
Be careful how you route this. Make sure you get it back the way it came out.
Next we can go ahead and put in the air box. With that rubber boot, go ahead and put it
in from the side and you can rotate it around. Get it slid over that intake plenum.
Now we can go ahead and attach our breather hose.
Make sure that clamp gets on there. Alright, now we need to go ahead and mount
our CDI box. Make sure that you put the ground wire on the back side where that screw goes
through it. That actually mounts it to the air box. We've got our new spark plugs in.
Go ahead and put our caps on with our leads. Next, let's go ahead and get those springs
on that exhaust. I know it's a little tough, those springs have a lot of tension on them.
Now we can go ahead and start refilling it with coolant.
Finally we can go ahead and reconnect our battery and put some fuel in it.
Don't forget your oil. She holds right at two quarts. Go ahead and get your air filter.
Make sure it's clean and pop it in place. Well, it's the moment of truth now. Let's
go ahead and fire it up and see what we've got.
Well alrighty. I think that sounded pretty good to start off with.
Listen, we're basically breaking in a brand new engine. We want to get those rings to
seat back into those cylinder bores correctly. So you want to take it easy for about the
first 20 hours of operation. You want to vary your throttle a lot-- not just hold it at
one particular RPM for too long. Definitely don't want to go wide-open throttle on it
yet. Let it sink back in because really... do you want to go through all of that again?
You want it all to start meshing together and working correctly. Start out of the box
right with those one, you know? Well that pretty much wraps it up other than
putting the plastics back on this, it's ready to go.
Listen, if you need any of the parts that I used on this come see us at partzilla.com.
If there's anything that I missed, something you didn't really follow, leave me a comment
in the section below and I'll do my best to answer it.
And from me and from the rest of my team we just want to say thank you for watching and
we'll see you next time.