Hi I'm Vance and welcome to Repair and Replace.
If your oven heats up and bakes normally, but won't self clean,
then it's likely a problem with one of the switches or the door lock motor.
When an oven self cleans it heats up to a thousand degrees Fahrenheit,
which burns off the food and grease residue inside the oven.
For protection the oven door will lock during every self-cleaning cycle.
First the door position switch needs to be pressed to verify that the door is closed.
Next the motor energizes turning the lock.
This presses the door lock switch, which signals to the control board that it's safe to self-clean.
Now if the door position switch the motor or the door lock switch fails
it will prevent the oven from self-cleaning.
In this episode we'll access and test each component with a multimeter.
Let's get started.
To begin you might need a screwdriver, a nut driver, pliers, gloves, and a multimeter.
Keep in mind there is some variation between models,
and not all ovens will have the same parts.
You can enter your model number on the AMRE supply website to see a parts breakdown.
This can be helpful to show you which parts are in your oven and where they are located.
Door lock motors come in two styles, and are either mounted on the front or on the back.
If it's near the front, then the motor and latch will be a single unit.
If it's on the back, the motor will operate a small rod that will pull the latch shut.
Door switches also come in several varieties.
It will either be on the front near the side or mounted at the back.
Some door switches will be built into the door latch assembly, so depending on the
model at some point you might have to access both the back of the oven and the stove top.
Before anything else, there's a quick test you can do.
If your oven light normally turns on when you open the door,
then you can use this to check the switch.
If the light turns on then your door switch is working correctly.
Now if the light doesn't turn on when you open the door,
but you can still control the light manually, then that means the door switch is faulty.
Always be safe and disconnect the power at the breaker.
Since there might be some sharp edges, it's best to wear cut resistant gloves.
Gently pull the range slightly away from the wall.
As soon as there's enough room, go in behind and unplug it from the receptacle.
Make sure that there isn't too much tension on the cord.
Now slide the range all the way out so you have plenty of room to work.
On the back of the oven is a cover panel,
some models have a small panel near the top and a larger panel near the bottom.
Now remove the screws.
The panel will likely be sitting on several hooks.
Simply lift up to remove the panel.
Lifting up the cooktop will be slightly different depending on the model.
For conventional stoves the top will lift up similar to the hood of a car.
The support rods will hold the top in place.
Now unscrew and remove the plate that sits on top of the insulation.
If you have a radiant or glass stove top, then you'll have to open the oven door
and remove the mounting screws.
Now lift up and use a piece of wood or a sturdy object to prop it open.
First locate the door lock motor either at the back of the oven or at the front.
To remember where each wire goes it's best to take a picture for reference.
Now disconnect the wires.
You can test the assembly in place but it's often easiest when it's isolated from the oven.
Now unscrew and remove the assembly.
Using a multimeter we can test the motor and the switches for continuity.
A continuity test will determine if there's a continuous path for electricity to flow through.
On the switch you'll likely see a few terminals labeled COM for common NO as normally open
and NC for normally closed.
A normally closed terminal will form a complete circuit at rest.
It will stay energized until the switch is pressed and the circuit is opened.
A normally open terminal is not energized at rest,
it will only complete the circuit when the switch is pressed closed.
Set the multimeter to the ohms or resistance setting.
Test from the common to the normally open terminal.
There should be no continuity and no reading on the multimeter.
When you press the switch closed there should be continuity, with a reading between 0 and 1 ohm.
If the switch has 3 terminals, then also test between the common
and the normally closed terminal.
There should be continuity.
When you press the switch, the NC contacts will open and you'll lose continuity.
Repeat these tests for each microswitch.
If any of these tests fail, then you'll have to replace the assembly.
The motor windings can also be tested for continuity.
Test between each terminal on the motor.
If there is no continuity then the motor is faulty and the assembly will need to be replaced.
If your model has a separate door switch,
then locate the switch at either the front or the back of the oven.
Take a picture of the wires and disconnect them.
Now press the tabs together to remove the switch.
If the door switch only has two terminals then it's easy to test.
Pressing and releasing the switch should connect and disconnect the circuit.
Other switches have three terminals.
Test between NO and common, and then test between NC and common.
If the switch has four terminals, it will likely have two normally closed and two normally open.
In this case test between both NC terminals.
Then test between both NO terminals.
If the switch fails any of these tests then the switch is faulty and should be replaced.
If you have eliminated all other problems, and the self clean still isn't working,
then it could be a problem with the control board.
First do a visual inspection of the board.
If you see any charred or blackened spots then it's a good sign that there's a failed component
or short circuit in the board.
If you had a power surge recently then that could be the cause.
As well double check that all the wire connectors are secure .
As a loose connection can prevent power from going to where it's needed.
Overall these boards are pretty simple to replace but are non-returnable after installation.
So if you're not sure that the control board is faulty it's best to call a professional.
Lower the stove top and tighten any screws.
Align the back panel and replace the screws.
Now plug in the cord and push the range back into place.
Next reconnect the power.
Now you can test your oven.
If this still didn't solve your problem,
then check out our troubleshooting videos linked in the description below.
For more troubleshooting videos on water heaters,
furnaces, and appliances, then subscribe to our channel.
And if you need help you can call or visit an AMRE location to talk with our knowledgeable staff.
Thanks for watching.