this video is how to change centerlock porsche wheels
this is a 2014 porsche 911 turbo x and i've upgraded from the silver busy design stock
wheels to these hre wheels and so this is going to be the process of what i went through how to
do it yourself the 911 is clearly in need of a new set of tires while i'm getting tires i might as
well get some new wheels with it right this ultra lagera oz wheel is just a little bit busy for me
and there's some other i've not heard of the forged one brand
now here's the black wheel and tire package and this is the carbon fiber wheel like i said those
are nice but man that's a lot of cash for that wheel okay i think that's what i want then in
gloss black there we go it's even on a porsche with the center hub that looks great actually
that's i think that's the winner right there so i have a couple options i can order them from hre
tires mounted balance pressure sensors and all those and then i have to put them on or
i could have the wheels shipped to the porsche dealer and have them mount and balance the tires
onto the wheels and install them onto the car good thing baron's got the utility vehicle
fit all four in there
and this is why one dude and a dog need a four bedroom house
hell yeah america oh yeah look at that finish these are the
305 30 zr20s god these things are massive
now that's a footprint the first tool we need is actually in the front of the car
so let's open the hood and what you're going to want to do is lift up on this cover gently slide
it out also on this side pop it out make sure you don't scratch your paint anywhere in this little
container right there on the driver's side you're going to find the tool that you need so you've got
the hub tool that goes over the center caps and in the bottom of this you'll find this little tool
is for prying the porsche crust off the center now i have all the tools i need i have this part that
was in the center cap socket to pull the crests off i have this piece to actually act as a socket
on the center caps i had to get an adapter to go from a one inch to the three quarter inch
so that it'll go in there at three quarter inch
and that's because the multiplier i got it has a three quarter in but it has a one
inch out so that's why i needed this adapter to go from that one inch to the three quarter here
i also had to buy a bigger torque wrench to get to the necessary torque i need
and then this piece this is an alignment tool and what you do is put this in the center
when you're removing or installing a wheel to keep it going straight that way you don't
damage these very expensive carbon ceramic brake rotors i'm also going to need a spreader as well
since i'm doing this by myself since this guy's not able to hold the brake pedal down
for me i need the spreader to do that also a tube of the center cap grease for installation
although i'm not the best about reading instructions in this particular case i will
just because the mistakes could be so expensive so in the owner's manual in the back it starts with
the section on changing wheels and it goes through the five lug design and eventually
to the uh center lock section so i'll be going through this as i do the process
now it's time to put those wheels on that car they're going to be 245s in the front
and 305s in the rear here's the two rear ones together just an example of what even what's
considered kind of a big tire for a sport bike is nothing compared to these 911 tires now i
need to look at them and identify direction there doesn't appear to be any direction on the outside
that makes me a little nervous though i don't want to put them on wrong these are a pilot sport 4s
and all they have is an outside label but they don't have any kind of arrows i called
tire rack just to be damn sure that it doesn't matter which way they go but he confirmed that
it is outside only because they're different width obviously you can't rotate front to back
but since they're asymmetrical he said that you've got a wider portion on the outside than the inside
which you can see here and that helps you for cornering better
but as far as left versus right it doesn't matter and that's good because that means i can actually
rotate left to right to help even out the first thing is to get that center cap off
first the crest there will be a little slit in one spot just take the tool
and in theory oops pry it out just be a little bit more careful than i was
okay i'm checking to make sure the rear parking brake is set and
okay it's set to also put a couple boards under one of the opposite tires to make sure
that everything's in place and stays that way now you see on this there's that little part
sticking out the front and here you've got a spring-loaded thing so this one it first pushes in
it's going to hit that little springy job and then it's got to go all the way in
before it locks in place so that's what you got to make sure you're pushing in to get that right
i always read the label too on these things this is actually a three to one input output ratio my
math will be 440 foot-pounds divided by three and that's what i'll have to do for the input
okay just to be clear i want the socket to go that way to loosen that bolt so i want to push down on
that side which means my stabilizer bar off the multiplier has to go against the ground here
and it's clearly scratching my floor so i need to put something down there
so i've got it on the ground i've got it broken loose now that it's broken loose i can put it back
up in the air get that off and swap the wheel the book shows the spot you want to be under directly
under so you don't break something on the back to jack it up in order to get a little bit more
confidence in my jack i put a bolt in the end of it to sort of find the home for the insert hole on
the underside of the frame that'll just help keep it from just purely sliding off the side at least
now the jack's up where it needs to be i've got it moved out of the way this much as i can to give
myself the most room to work on the wheel i've got plastic under that protecting my garage floor now
it should just be a matter of sure raising that wheel i don't like the idea there we go
okay now i can see it moving i feel better now i shouldn't need the multiplier anymore
it's going to take that bulky thing on there
you want to be real careful not to scratch your body panels here
i think they don't even need a torque wrench there we go
it's going to come off by hand now and there's your center cap before i take that wheel off
i'm going to use my alignment tool to make sure i don't screw up those brake discs with this
here's that alignment tool it's threaded now i'm just going to gently pull the wheel off
and there we go now
put the new one on and you see those little kind of studs sticking out those are alignments
to go into those holes in the back of the wheel subscribe to my youtube
channel if you want to learn more about how to enjoy amazing machines like this