Hello welcome to Enots engineering I'm Alan
Today is the last in the series of the Boxford lathe build
we fit the head stock back on to the lathe bed fit the lead screw the saddle and the tail stock
we carry out some work on the lead screw gearbox
and we also replace the bearings on one of the drive shafts
so let's go over to the workshop as see how we do it
I'm just cleaning these gears because they have swarf all on them
but I say the whole machine just never got cleaned
Still got some in there
these are the runways for the oil to go make sure they are free
Th e keyway looks in good condition another keyway there
Get the toothbrush to clean that out
I have to remember how this goes together
That goes there another one goes there
No key one that one ther's a key way on that one so I have that the right way around
So this is just an idler
Put a bit of lube on here
just feel that key way in we go
Put a bit of lube in this bush and between the gears
It was doing this before locking as if the shafts bent
This goes on here and locks on there
That controls the thrust on that
I'm worried about these tight spots here
Lets investigate that
secondary shaft bearing replacements
The old bearings have been removed off the shaft shafts cleaned up
Remove out the carriers I can see some minor damage here at one point
this pulley must have drifted over and rubbed onto this but that's a minor
Nothing to really worry about
new bearings
Iv'e gone for the same as the original ones with steel seals double-sided seals
you can get a rubberized seal but
the other ones lasted long enough since 1972 so should be good enough for another 40 years
What I'm going to do first is press the bearings into the carrier
there not sided so it doesn't matter which way they go in
The first thing to do is obtain a socket that fits snugly into the carrier
It happens to be an 11/16 whitworth
Which fits neatly onto the outer race of the bearing so we're not going to do any damage
don't push the bearing in by the inner race because it could cause indentations on race itself
put soft jaws on the one side of the vice
I shall put the carrier up against
central the vice to equal the force that's going to go on the bearing
straightforward enough that's inserted correctly
The same with the second one that one's done
now I'm looking for a socket that fits over the shaft and inside the carrier
In circumference so I need to apply pressure to the inner race to push it onto the shaft
I've slacken the grub screw go off on the pulley so can push it inside the larger pulley
to give me more of the shaft to grip in the vice
try the other soft jaws was these tend to have a habit of moving
I would like to press them in but the vice just doesn't go wide enough
we'll use a little bit of lubrication
just a bit of grease on the bearing
the other end of the shaft
obviously you don't want the bearing to drift outwards
so the the end stop for the bearing in the outer carrier faces outwards
so I'll go on that way and this
will go on this way and that will control the shaft
the lathe bed was fitted back onto the base cabinets and a layer of oil applied
where the headstock fits
the next part to fit is the lead screw and gearbox
three cap heads hold the gearbox to the bed and two cap heads on the other end
support the end of the lead screw
check once fitted that the leadscrew can turn freely
you can see there are two cutouts in the bed where the headstock fits
the cutouts are clearance for the drive belt
we're now ready to fit the headstock into its correct position
before the headstock was removed we measured the end of the headstock to the end of the bed
the headstock is held in position with two cast brackets underneath
and two bolts that go into the headstock
clamping the headstock down to the bed
once the clamps have been fitted the headstock is moved to its correct position
from the end of the bed to the end of the headstock
this was measured previously and a note of the size made on the yellow paper
we're now setting the headstock to the original position
it's important that you check this before you remove the headstock
so that you can replace the headstock to the correct position
and all the gears should line up
once in position the clamps can be finally tightened to locate the headstock and hold it permanently
next we fit the compound slide and cross slide to the bed
and we add the tailstock to the end of the bed
we slacken and remove the lead screw support block on the end of the bed
so that we can slide the apron on over the lead screw
the leadscrew must pass through the worm gear on the apron and the keyway on the worm gear
aligns with the slot on the lead screw
once in position replace the lead screw support block on the end of the bed
to prevent any damage to the lead screw due to the weight of the apron
the apron can now be aligned with the two holes in the top and two cap heads fit the saddle to the apron
after replacing the electric motor and the drive shafts and belts
then replacing the cover on the end of the gearbox the lathe was finished
so let's compare the picture of the lathe before we started to the lathe as it is now
well that's the finished lathe all reconditioned
I hope that was useful hope you enjoyed it
and we'll see you next time
On Enots engineering