Today I'm going to talk about some stuff that's new and different a lot of people have been asking
how to upgrade their Ender 3 for dual extrusion now I've created a lot of Thingiverse parts that
you're going to need for your SKR version 1.4 and also for the print head to attach
with this tutorial though I have to warn you that the actual print head always needs to be
cooled and monitored when printing for your safety and the safety of others around you
now a lot of these parts I'm not going to cover a lot of information on because you
can decipher most of it from the actual video and the other answers will be in my
playlist that you can try out for yourself also I'll be putting amazon affiliate links in the
description for your convenience and no one's paying me or sponsoring me to do this tutorial
here's the case that I had to remove from the ender 3 in order to do an upgrade now if you look
at the x y and z axes you can see that there's a little bit of rubber cement that they used
to connect the actual NEMA stepper motor wiring and they've done that throughout the board to
keep things secure you're gonna have to carefully work free your connectors in order to set them up
for the upgrade here's the case that I developed for the ender 3 notice how you can integrate in an
SKR version 1.4 it'll also take an SKR version 1.3 I did have to reroute the cable in order for you
to be able to connect to this but if you need this model you can always download it from Thingiverse
and print it out for yourself it comes with a lid and one last thing i will not be covering
how to do the actual steppers in this video but in this case I'll be using the TMC2208
and I'll leave a link in the upper right hand corner so that you can review how to install that
yourself so now we're actually going to program the board now keep in mind that while this is
installed in the printer you won't have it on USB power and you'll have to use direct power
for now i have it set for USB so the other two pins would be for direct power which are over here
but we can't program via USB right now so I'm moving them over
until we have direct power connected so I'm going to slide this in right here
and I'm going to program it now okay as always I start with showing you that it's got FIRMWARE.CUR
on it from the last time it was loaded you'll see why in a second but I'm going to go over to bs
code I'm actually going to load the marlin so I'm going to do an open folder then I'm going
to go to my downloads folder my marlin folder then one folder deeper and click select folder
now that that's loaded we have to set this up
and the current board that I'm using in this is actually the SKR 1.4 Turbo but in the actual
printer I'm using the SKR 1.4 I'm going to show you how to do it with the turbo right now and
also show you a little bit later how to deal with either but we're going to go to boards.h
we're going to open that up we're going to search on SKR and as you can see this would be the SKR
that is not turbo but because we're using the turbo we have to go down
to here someplace so let me find it it's actually probably listed someplace other than it normally
is it's actually the LPC1769 so it should be in this list right here so I'm going to copy that
then I'm going to close out of boards.h I'm going to minimize that minimize source
I'm going to go to configuration.h and I'm going to do a search on motherboard
I'm going to highlight the ramps over here and paste over it and that'll be for the turbo
I'm going to leave the speed the same for the moment but I'm going to change the serial port
to negative 1 and then I'm going to remove the comment for the second serial port and change that
to zero because I'm using the actual display known as the e3 by big tree tech for my touch screen
display so next thing that we want to do after we get those set is actually set up our extruders
now because I'm using two different colors I'm using two different extruders now the print head
that I'm actually using has one single nozzle so I need to remove the comment to enable that
so now that we have all of that set we actually have to check on our bed temperature sensor
because normally it's default without a bed so this is where your thermal settings for
your thermistor are set and there's a list of thermistors that you can use
in this case I'm going to use the default one just like the temperature sensor on our
extruder or hot end pardon me so I'm going to do the bed sensor as one as well next I'm going to
have to set up our steppers so I'm going to search on a 4988 and down here we actually want to define
what our stepper drivers are so I'm going to remove the comment for the X then Y
then Z and then I'm going to do E0
and E1 now all of these are going to be TMC2208 so what we need to do is find it in the list here
so there's standalone which we don't want but we want this
I'm going to copy this I'm going to paste in all the places where we've removed the comments
and now those are all configured next we need to scroll down and do our default steps per access
so down here is the actual value for that now they're already defaulted to 80 which
is approximately in the neighborhood that you want to be but for these two values being the
dead um stepper it's going to be slightly different it's going to be
eight 416.88 that's what i computed for it and if you're using the exact same steppers
like the one that i suggested in the description with the amazon affiliate link then you can set
these both to be the same otherwise you've got to do them separately so the tuning that i came up
for for this was actually 94. so now that we have that set the only thing we have to worry about now
is actually the inversion of our extras so I'm going to search on x underscore dir
and as you can see right now we have the direction
set to false we're actually going to change that to true
and then down here i actually had to invert the direction of my steppers
the way that they're plugged in you can also do this by
flipping the plug if you've got one of the flat DuPont connectors
but in my case i didn't have it for all of them so i had to change these both to true as well
so that's for the two steppers for the extruder
so now that we have that set we actually have to set the bed size so I'm going to search on bed
underscore and that brings us to bed size and the bed size is actually 230
by 230 for the x and the y and then the z is actually 250 on the ender three
so now that we have that all set we need to go over to our advanced configuration and there's
a couple of other steps that we need to do in here because the way that i hooked up my fan I'm
using the second extruder in order to control the actual auto fan so I'm going to search on auto fan
and down here this is where we can actually set the actual configuration for our fan to turn on
automatically so I'm going to change the auto fan for this to the pin number which is going to be p
to underscore 004
and that'll set our pin now when the actual temperature is reached it'll go on so I'm going to
change it to 75 degrees Celsius and the fan speed you can vary but i suggest probably around 225 is
a safe bet for when you actually turn on the fan so now that we have that set I'm just going to
make one other change and that's to our stepper so I'm going to search on 800 and this will bring
us to our actual settings for our TMC settings on our TMC2208 so I'm going to say 750 for the value
and I'm going to do that for X I'm going to do it for Y I'm going to do it for the Z axis
and I'm also going to do it for E0 and E1 it's
more my preference than anything else but you probably could run these at 800
but i like doing this so now that we have that changed we have to set up the platform io.ini
and if you've watched my tutorials before you know in this case it's going to be LPC1769
and that's for the turbo version of the SKR if it's a regular SKR 1.4 it'll be
LPC1768 and so in order to compile and upload we're going to press the arrow right here which
will compile and then upload or build and send to our printer I'm going to click on that and that's
going to take a few moments okay now that it's done compiling we can see that it's successful for
those who don't know i had to hit compile a second time for the build because i had something i had
to clean out but it should compile fine so let's check to see what happened it obviously copied
over is firmware.bin so this is actually our built file so I'm going to remove the power then
I'm going to reconnect the power and that will load the firmware dot current after it completes
as you can see right here okay i wanted to add this step it's kind of important i wanted to
point out that I'm adding feral connectors to some of the fans and my extruder cartridge down here
that's kind of important for the install it'll protect you from a stray wire which may cause
damage to your board now i also marked down here what the actual voltage looks like when it's red
and the unmarked ones are actually ground that'll help you prevent a lot of issues
now the other advantage that i wanted to show you here is that each one of these cables inside your
ender actually has labels on them for x y and z they also have them for your end stops as well
here's a mock-up of the ender 3's x carriage it's not exactly the same
but i wanted to show you how I'm actually mounting this mount so you're going to place this over this
right here this is the part that I put up on Thingiverse and then you're gonna bolt it down
with the screws that I included in the description these would be amazon affiliate links
and then you'll actually bolt these down like so
once these are in place you'll be able to attach your actual hot end for your dual extrusion
so these should go flush and once again I need to remind you not to forget about the
cooling fan that comes with your hot end it will mount right here and all the equipment to do it
will be located in the actual kit that comes with it and you'll bolt right through here
okay now I want to show you the final step to preparing your g-code for printing now I've
already showed you how to install CURA and I'll include a link in the upper right hand corner
but now I'm going to show you how to actually set up a print
so I'm going to click on here and I'm going to click the center cone and the base and click open
and after this opens I'm going to click first on the main cone for my color I started with
orange which is the first extruder so I'm going to click that now for the other color
I'm going to click yellow which is over here and I'm going to highlight both of these by pressing
ctrl a then right clicking and going to merge models now it's all one model with two different
colors so notice how i start on orange and then it goes through the colors all the way back to orange
that's going to be important in a moment because i have to show you a bug that i found
that has to do with the actual hot end since there are two extruders that go into it
and there's only one thermistor and one heater cartridge
CURA thinks there are two so before I show you that I'm going to show you how to set up the slice
so over here I'm going to click on this and go to custom now I'm not currently using a prime block
and the other name for the prime block is a purge block that would be a block that prints over here
that purges the color between layers I figured out a way to do it as one cone without a purge
block so I'm not going to use that but I'll show you my temperature settings real quick
so over here I'm searching on temp it may take a moment to catch up but as you can see
i had to equalize the temperatures between the two extruders because CURA still thinks there are two
extruders when there's only one extruder or one hot end with one heat cartridge and thermistor
so to prevent that from causing this bug which I'll show you in just a second I'm
just gonna slice the model real quick and save it I'm gonna save this as error
so that you can see what's going on so I'm going to open the folder and I'm going to go to the file
name that's called error and I'm going to right click and I'm going to go to edit with notepad
now the issue that I found was that if you search here on M104 T1 S0 what's occurring is before
it gets to last layer so after it finishes printing the color yellow it's turning off
the print head at this point and the rest of this will not print so the way to correct this
is when you find this command right here is just highlight it backspace twice to delete it
and click save now if you're worried about your print head turning off then you can search on
M104 S0 and this is what turns off your print head at the very end of your print now this comes from
inside CURA on your printer settings so if you click over here and click manage printers you
can go into machine settings and actually see that this is the ending g-code so the M104 is
actually what turns off your print head right here and it's actually listed right there or
I'm sorry just above it right there so that's why it's actually turning off at the very end
so I want to take a moment to thank everybody for watching my tutorial and please like and subscribe