Hello welcome to Enots engineering I,m Alan
today we finish off the headstock handle and the expanding mandrel by fitting it onto
the steering wheel and giving it a test this is the finished item a
it looks a bit big as a handle but being soft and padded it's easy to hold
and also the leverage from the outside to the center is about the same as you get from a ratchet spanner
the expanding part works quite well it also gives you the ability
to turn the handle when you're standing in front of the chuck
so you can actually see what's happening on the chuck side
we also see what happens if you forget this is in the back and turn the lathe on
so let's go into the workshop and see how we do it
I'm just cutting the slots from the end to the hole in the middle
this one I'm just using the hacksaw
I have milled one which is a wider slot you could still do that with a hacksaw
by fitting two blades in at the same time so if you cut it cuts twice the width
now all I'm doing is sawing from the end to the hole that we drilled in
on all the four sides to give us the ability to open this out and expand the outside
once you've sawn the slot just use a small triangular file take each edge off
and also on the inside
I've just wedge the nut the tapered nut inside the tube
clamped it up on the outside in the vice and I'm just going to centre drill
the end of the tapered nut
now I'm drilling a 3mm hole to the centre of the nut
take the bolt out just to make sure
there's the tapered nut with the 3mm hole through it which goes into the centre
so I can take these nut out now and it's ready for the 3mm pin
right now we come to the assembly so this is the steering wheel that we milled
the rubber off the back face and if you remember if you watch the other
episodes this bore is slightly tapered so when I machined the mandrel to fit
from this side goes halfway and locks from this side and goes the full depth
so that indicates this bore is slightly tapered
now my brother made one and he pressed his in as a press fit but I didn't want to do that because
I thought if this starts just to move on the shaft when you lock the shaft in your head then you've lost control
so what I've done on this one I've modified the end
and what I've done is the shaft is just below this face
I've drilled two holes and tap them M5 and I've drilled and tapped a 12mm hole
I'll show you what that's for in a minute
so to go on top of that I've made a plate
I've made this plate quite big I was originally going to use the holes
or some of the holes in here that would bolt the plate down and then I decided not to
but I've left it just in case I need to do that
this goes in and lines up with the two holes each side of the bar
then in the holes I fit two 5mm capheads now to make this job easier
you could put two roll pins in if you've got a roll pin it makes it easier
you wouldn't need a counter bore you you'd have more room because you're not having to thread
so it would be just to roll pins going in
and all that does is stop this disc twisting on the shaft
I put the cap heads in
just tighten this up
and what that does it bolts this disc to the shaft
so if this turns the disc turns with it and you can see it the wheel will still slip
now if this wheel slips all I have to do is use the holes on the back here to put a cap head
straight through into the aluminium drill and tap the aluminium from the back
there are two smaller holes one opposite each other
and I could just drill them from the back tap them and put two cap heads through
so that would lock the aluminium disks or the steering wheel
but I'm not going to do that yet because if I don't need to do it
If I can get away with that it's just a bit of extra work but the wheel starts turning on the shaft
then I can lock this disc to the wheel
the next thing to put in is this bolt 12 mm bolt with a 6mm hole through it
this one looks a bit tatty because it had some steel welding on the top of it but it's just a standard bolt
and that should fit straight down the middle into the 12mm hole in the end of the shaft
I can tighten this 12mm nut up that also clamps the plate to the expending mandrel
Thats that tightened up
Now this 12mm bolt has a 6mm hole or it could be 6.5mm
if you're using a 6mm bar
if your using threaded bar for the shaft you can use a 6mm hole
I've use some 6mm bar with a 6mm thread each end that goes through the center into the nut
and then on this the back here there's a washer you can put the nut on
or you can get some sort of hand plastic knob that can go on there to tighten this up
so all you do to fit this to the headstock just push this into the headstock from the back
and turn this nut and what happens when you turn the nut
as I turn this nut the taper nut going down the shaft and what happens
then is each end of this mandrel is opening out and gripping on the inside of your spindle
and you slacken the nut off and tap the end to release
your just knocking the taper nut back to release it
so let's have a look on the lathe how it works
first thing to do is make sure that the spindle is clean which I've already done
push the expanding mandrel in until it comes to the stop
then on the very end tighten up the nut
That pulls the tapered nut into the mandrel
It doesn't need a lot of force
I can feel it gripping there now it's gripped take the spanner off
If you forget and turn the machine on the spanner or fly
what I'm hoping to do just get something like this which is a nut captivated in plastic
so that can screw on the end
I think the nuts not very good in that one or even a nut in plastic that you can turn by hand
you can see now I can turn that and it will turn the chuck
and if I'm standing on this side it's easy to hold the wheel and look at whatever you're machining or making
now if you do happen to forget that that's on there
there's no problem you can leave a lathe running with that there
it's balanced there's no vibration from the lathe
with that on there you can just use it
although it looks like it's running out
obviously the wheel is not perfectly round on modern cars
it works okay
obviously if you put this in back gear then the amount of force you need to turn the chuck
starts to build up and if it starts to slip it means that the mandrel that they've made
can't grip onto the wall of the spindle tight enough
because of all the load on the back gear
but just for positioning your chuck in the right position or a faceplate or whatever your machining
it's a nice soft handle and being large you can get more leverage on than you would with the ratchets manner
and you can feel if you're cutting the thread if you're tapping a hole or you just want to rotate the chuck by hand
you can do that you can feel when the thread locks up prevent just snapping off your tap
now to remove it just take your spanner
hold the wheel rotate the nut a couple of turns
and then to disengage the taper nut
just tap the thread in
so this is loose
put that back tighten the nut up
Thats gripped the shaft
Lets have a look how it rotates from this side
turn the lathe on
although this is running up and down
it's true on the centre boss so this is the steering wheel that's not round
because if it was out too much you get a lot of vibration
Oh well that's it for today hope you enjoyed it if you found it interesting
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