hi friends Katie here from salvaged by K Scott with another Furniture flip I picked up this
really rough mid-century style chest of drawers and I'm about to completely resuscitate it so
it can get back to work as a functional and attractive piece of furniture again [Music]
this chest has been through some things it has seen battle it is filthy and it stinks
it's perfect for me I love a good challenge and I love the blank slate of these lower end
laminate mid-century pieces three of the four drawers are missing the guides that keep them
in place the laminate top is coming away from the wood frame and it's also missing a huge chunk off
of the front edge it's bubbled up all over the place but it's got good bones so I'm going to
get to work and I'll show you how I deal with all of these issues as I go my first step is always a
good clean I think it's so important to get all of the dirt grease and other contaminants off of
the surfaces before I sand so that I don't end up grinding anything down into the porous surfaces
where if I can't get them back out again I'm also going to pull out all of the drawers and give them
a good inspection just looking over their joints and the runners that keep them place [Music]
these legs are actually solid wood it's probably Maple that's got this Factory brown paint job so
I think I'll probably sand them down and stain them before I'm finished with this thing just
to add a little bit of a natural wood element I do really love the shape of this authentic
mid-century Hardware but it's not going to fit in with the Contemporary redesign that I have
in mind for this piece so I'm just going to tuck these away and I will definitely
use them on something else one day as soon as I sprayed My Simple Green Cleaner into this
top drawer I got a huge whiff of spice we'll call it spice and I can see lots of little
spice crumbles hiding in the corners of this drawer too this was definitely a spice drawer
which I will have to deal with later on and as I was wiping out the last drawer the dovetail
joint actually fell right apart in my hand so that's gonna need a little further attention
too I used a 4 14 gauge blunt tip syringe filled with some wood glue to get into and around all
of the dovetail surfaces and hold that joint back together and then I put some more glue in
between the laminate top and the wood frame that it sits on and clamped that up to dry
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thank you since I'm replacing the original Hardware I need to fill in the old holes
and this quick Woody is my favorite way to do that this is a two-part epoxy that's kind of
like clay or Play-Doh you break off a section mix the two colors together and then you can
mold it to whatever repair you're making in this case I'm going to make some little snaky noodles
to shove in these holes and I'm just bracing on the inside with my fingers so that I can
push this all the way through and get a nice solid fill once this is dry it will be even
stronger than wood it can even be drilled into and I can sand it flush with the drawer face
once the quick wood was set I used some 120 grit sandpaper to smooth that out and also remove a
lot of the laminate finish that's on here these drawer fronts are solid wood unlike the body of
the dresser but the Finish that's on them is it's sort of like a paper sticker and not the actual
wood grain that's underneath so since this is flaky around the edges I'm just going to sand
away as much as I need to to get these smooth I also took some time to sand the insides of
the drawers to remove all the pen marks and as much of whatever other stains as I could [Music]
for this top that is in terrible shape I'm still using my 120 grit sandpaper and again I'm standing
away as much material as I need to to get things flush and smooth feeling which means sanding
through the same papery layer right down to the fiberboard that's underneath it to rebuild this
front edge I'm going to mix up some all-purpose Bondo which is another two-part epoxy filler but
this stuff is more of a spreadable consistency which is what I need here foreign [Music]
I tried to fill in the missing chunk and shape it back to as much of that
90 degree Corner as I could and then I used the rest of the Bondo to do sort of a skim
coat over the rest of the top because it was still feeling a little Lumpy [Music]
while that sets up I'm gonna go back to the drawers and start dealing with the rather
unpleasant skunky odor that they've got my experience with odors and wood is that the
only Surefire long-term fix is to completely encapsulate it in shellac you definitely need
to wear a respirator when you're working with shellac whether it's the brushable version or
the spray can because it's really high in vocs it also requires ammonia to clean up and sticks
to everything it touches so I don't use any good brushes with it I just use a cheap little chip
brush that I keep with the can because even though it will dry rock hard the shellac will reactivate
itself once you dip your brush back into the can by the time I was done coating all of the drawer
surfaces in shellac the Bondo on the dresser top was set so I use my sander to help me reshape this
corner and then sanded down the rest of the top again and also scuff up the rest of the
Slicks surfaces to create enough of a texture for my primer and paint to grip onto [Music]
primer I'm using some more shellac for this but this time I'm using the White
Version which is called bin just like the can says it sticks to everything
hides severe stains and odors and is safe to use with pretty much all paints
it's also going to seal things up so that my paint sits evenly across the porous repaired areas and
the non-porous Factory finish that's still intact again because it's so hard to clean up I line my
tray with tin foil and I prefer to roll this on instead of trying to put it in my sprayer
this primer dries fast so by the time it was all the way around the dresser I was ready to put on
my second coat if you've got a piece that's got a lot of stains that are bleeding through the
primer it will create a more effective barrier if you leave it to cure up overnight [Music]
I decided that I'd better replace the broken drawer guides with some new ones
and make sure that all of the drawers were lining up and sliding into the chest properly
before I moved on to paint so I removed the broken ones and just screwed on some
Replacements from Home Depot and made sure that everything lined up [Music]
I used a 400 grit sanding block to quickly smooth out any little
roller bumpies that were left in my primer and then I masked
off the drawers with some painters tape and paper to protect them from overspray
I'm going to be painting this chest in Everett by Fusion mineral paint which
is a gorgeous olive green gray color and I'm going to be spraying it with my gravity fed
HVLP pneumatic sprayer I strained about half of this pint into my Hopper to make sure that
I don't have any dried up chunks of paint or pigment clumps that might clog up my sprayer
and then I added about a tablespoon of water in there as well [Music] I turn the pressure
on my air compressor down to about 35 or 40 PSI played around with the flow settings on
the gun and then sprayed on my first coat this is an acrylic resin paint that is low VOC it can
be brushed rolled or sprayed and it's going to dry down to a pretty matte wipeable waterproof
finish it doesn't require any additional top coats but sometimes if it's a higher traffic
surface I will apply one anyways or if I want to bump up the sheen a little but I'm
gonna see how I feel about this once it's dry before I make a decision on this piece
[Music]
thank you I left that first coat to dry for about three hours and when I came back out
to spray my second coat I noticed that the front edges were a little rough feeling so
I'm just gonna smooth down those spots with my 400 grit again and then finish painting
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well that second coat of paint dried I moved over to sanding down the legs I used some 120
and then 180 grit to get this manufacturer's paint job off and smooth them out I popped the
legs into some clamps to hold them upright while I stain them with some of this water-based wood
stain from bear in early American this is a really easy to use wipe on wipe off product
but you're just gonna have to trust me on that because apparently I forgot to hit the record
button after I adjusted the camera I needed to drill some new holes for my new knobs so I use
this Hardware template that I think I picked up at Lowe's a million years ago I just lined it up
on the top Edge and the side of each drawer and then chose which marker I wanted to use
and transferred that from drawer to drawer I drilled my new holes and then unmasked the
drawers I used a little artist brush to touch up any of the edges that needed a little extra
paint and then screwed on these new antiqued brass knobs that I found on Amazon [Music]
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I rub the legs down with some of Fusion's beeswax finish to seal them up and then screwed them back
into their brackets and dragged everything into my kitchen to take the finished shots [Music]
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I think this is such a fresh and current take on this Blank Slate piece of furniture now it's
fixed up and ready to get back to work in someone's home instead of going to the dump
which is exactly where it was heading when I found it I know you're going to leave me a comment and
let me know your own thoughts on this makeover and I cannot wait to read them make sure you're
subscribed for tons more furniture flips and I will catch you all next time foreign [Music]