Welcome to part five of this low budget classic motorcycle restoration series.
So far we've got a rolling chassis, and built the engine and clutch up most of the way.
If you're new here, and like this sort of thing, we recommend you go back and start at Part One. As
a reminder, our whole goal with The Everyday Bike Project is to spend as little money as possible
to get a great running bike back on the road, to ride and have fun on all year round. Today we're
assembling more of the casings and clutch. Then we'll drift out the worn valve guides,
and replace them with brand new ones. Let's get started. When we get to this stage with
the engine, I meant to mention last time, the gear cassette's gone back in, it's a good idea
to make sure you've got all four gears. Now by any chance something's not right, it jams up, you've
got to take the whole thing apart. With cassette built-up gearboxes, usually the whole lot goes in,
it's as it should be. It's when you build up normally with a gearbox that's on a pre-unit,
you've got to put all the internals inside as you go. And that's when you know, sometimes, you can
miss your gears. Something's gone adrift because you have to time it all up. But this is quite
straightforward. I've just taken the selector fork out. So this is the selector plate. So what we can
do, may need to push this down. Now at the moment I'm pushing the sprocket round. It's in neutral at
the moment. If you press down on here, now that should be first gear. So it's locked up into
first. It's a little bit stiff, and we just get our fingers behind it. That's back into neutral.
That should be second gear. That should be third. And that's top. Go back down the box.
Third. Second. Back into neutral. So it always pays to do that. It's a
little bit difficult running through the gears, obviously pressing the selector cam plate down
and bringing it back up, because when you've actually changed gear with your foot,
this is the selector fork and this has the lever on the end,
this is engaged through here. And what it does is, obviously when you make the downward movement,
it's pushing this down. Then it neutralises. So you've got leverage on it. But this is what this
is. This is your selector fork. So today, what we're going to do is just clean this surface off.
We're just going to use our favorite Wellseal with the gasket. This is just a bit of brake cleaner.
Just get rid of any greasy residue. You have to be a bit careful when you put this on because it's
runny. And because you've got the engine upright now, it can drip down. So you don't want too
much of this. We haven't got the dowels on this side. That's on the other casing. But it's okay.
We'll soon have that on. That can line up still. Something I didn't show you earlier
was the push rod. Always use a bit of grease on this, then push this home.
Okay, that goes right in. Now on the other end of this push rod is a little ball,
and it's held in a little stub housing which will push that push rod up against the clutch to free
the clutch off. The idea of the ball bearing is so that the shaft itself, if it rotates,
it can spin on the ball, okay. Nothing's going to seize up in there, with plenty of grease.
This is a kickstart mechanism here. We've got a spring the other side that's pre-tensioned. We've
put a new oil seal in the back of this idler gear. And this idler gear, the seal was at the back,
and at the front here we have what would normally be a points assembly. But we have
electronic ignition on this. So we can get this back in today. We can't put the outer case on,
but we can put the module back in and you'll see how it's coming together.
When you do this, a mascara brush is brilliant. We've now got the Wellseal around there.
Gasket is on. So what I need to do is just make sure we've got,
with the intermediate gear, we've put some oil on here
because this goes through a bush in this casing, and there's an oil seal at the other side.
I won't put too much on here because it'll drip down onto the gasket.
Kickstart ratchet mechanism, put some oil around that.
I just want to show you the other side because we've got the seal. Always make sure
that seal has got oil inside the lip.
Okay, now we're ready to put that on. We just make sure that the holes are all lined up.
Select the forks in the right position.
And now we can push this case back on.
Try and push your case on nice and square. Just give it a little tap.
Now what we might just do, is just move that kickstarter.
Well that's our case back on. This here where it's got a clip for a wire, that is for our ignition
system. But we can put all these screws back up now and pull those in tight. We just go around,
pull them up. Then we'll nip them up properly at the end. It doesn't matter which way you do these.
Literally just wind them in. But then we start from the inside working out. When I put
the barrel on I was working from the outside round. But when you come to tighten you always
start from the the centre and work outwards. But we're just getting these screws in first.
Also making sure that the screws are the correct ones where
the actual thread is going right in and the screw is pulling down into the case. Right,
I'm going to pull these screws up tight now. If your screwdriver is like this one, a bit shiny,
slips in your hand, your hand's oily, put a glove on. You can hold on to it a bit better.
Put both hands on. Give it a good pull up. We're just going to run right round the outside now.
Just make sure they're all tight. Surprising that you can always just get a bit more each time you
go around. All right that's nice and tight. I mentioned just now about oil seals and things.
You always put quite a bit of oil around the lip of the seal, so when the shaft goes through
it's sitting on the seal properly. I'm just going to make sure that that lip
is in there properly with a tiny little screwdriver. Now what happened here,
it can happen, is the lip has got pushed over. So just got to be very careful and go round.
Okay, you gotta be careful with that seal. I'm just gonna run around that lip.
That's fine now. Always make sure that's in properly. When installing this case
if you have the service tool, this is not quite the right one, but this is the principle, it's
a taper that goes into this intermediate gear. It screws into the centre where the points assembly
will screw in to. So if you can imagine we're pushing this case on with the seal. What it would
do, this is not quite the same taper, it would go in there and it would expand the lip of the seal.
So we'll ease it over onto the main pinion, rather than what's happened to us, we just caught the lip
a little bit and it rolled over. But it's in there now, it's fine. Now I've got the case
back on and screws all done up tight you can see this clutch operating mechanism, literally on this
cantilever here. It's literally pulled by the cable this side, pushes the push rod assembly
back in, and if I put pressure on there you can see the clutch moving on the other side.
So if I push this in, and that will be pushing the pressure plate off on the other side.
Just going to clean up around the case now on the outside because
the Wellseal is a bit sticky. And a certain amount squashed out. Right, cylinder head, we're ready now
to take out the valve guides. So I've cleaned it all up, got as much of the oil out as possible,
and I've decarbonised all the ports as much as I can. It's not a bad head.
The valve seats, I have just tidied it up a little bit, we'll finish off the cutting on those
when we get the new guides and valves in. But we're going to heat that now in the oven.
While that's heating up we can just finish off the extracting tool which I'm going to use to drift
out these guides. Really want it maximum heat really, so that's right up as high as it will go.
We'll put that in for what, 10 minutes. And that should heat that up enough.
That's how we can get those guides out. Right, I think I showed you we are going to use an
extracting tool, drift, to put into the old valve guides to knock them out.
Well the tool I showed you was the wrong size. I'm just turning it down now,
I've nearly finished it. So here's the new guide. I just have to make sure that
the internal dimension is the same on this drift. So when we start to knock out it goes through
into the head and it's not going to get stuck in head, or be oversized and won't go in, or hit it
too hard. This hasn't got to be too accurate. We're going to run this down to about 12 mil.
We're taking another cut now on this. We're over 13 on here. So we'll just give this another go.
Yeah we want to come down a little bit more on that.
The idea is that's quite a nice fit in there.
And that now is ready to go. It feels pretty hot to me. These have to drift from the inside out.
Just make sure the head's supported.
Turn it on that way so the camera can see.
Sometimes you can get a few marks. I think the trouble is when the guides are knocked
out there's quite a lot of debris on the expansion chamber side of the head. It drags up through the
aluminium a little bit. Here, halfway down here in the head you can see a little bit of a lip.
This is where the guide is just pushing the alley up a little bit. We're just going to ease that out
a little bit so when you drift in the new guides I don't start pushing on the aluminium there,
and pushing in deeper. This one isn't too bad actually, but we've done the others.
So what we need to do is just put this back in the oven. Get it a little bit hotter than this again,
and put the new guides in. Here you see the old guide which we've pressed
out. We've pressed all four out. We've punched them out. And the idea is that
the tool itself mimics the valve stem that goes well into the valve guide. Then it just literally
butts up onto the bottom of the valve guide, and it's drifted out.
But during the drifting you do get a little bit of distortion. It does take a bit of punishment.
But so the old guides are knocked out. New ones, put round the other way. Drift in from the top.
So what we'll do, we literally just spray this up with a little bit of WD-40
and we just drift these in. It's important to get it lined up. It's a bit of a taper so you need to
get your angle right and go straight in with it. But hopefully they shouldn't be too difficult to
put in. Going to show you one of the old valve guides with one of the valves. We have here the
inlet valve. And you can see how much wobble there is. If you look at this here, a close-up shot, you
can see how much that valve was wobbling about. In comparison, take a new valve, take a new guide,
and this is before it's installed into the head, so it has to be an interference fit.
But there is no movement.
Spray up the guide with W-40 or
equivalent.
We have to do is fairly quickly because we don't want to lose the heat.
Right, main thing is to get your guide central. Get your inserting tool.
Hold on to it.
Now when it's home, the sound will change.
You get a ping.
Now we have all our guides back in place. When we were drifting these valve guides back in with
the tool, it's quite easy to squash in the last little bit here, the lip. Now if I put that valve
in you'll find it'll run up to that lip, it won't go through. So I'm just with a modeling file,
it's very fine, I'm just literally going to just ream that out. Take that out. Take that lip off.
Just go right round. Don't go right down, so you don't want to take like a taper cut really.
We'll blow it all out on an air line in a minute.
We do all four because I know they're all going to be the same.
But it's so important to get the head really hot. So an oven is really the best way. With blow
lamp you won't get the whole thing hot enough. You'll just heat a localised heat in one area.
So if you've got an old oven it works really well, or barbecue.
Okay we're just going to make sure that the guide now is opened up properly. We can use
one valve for all four here. Now you can see it comes through nicely. Now, the difference now,
we haven't got any movement now. So we're just going to make sure these valves are cut properly.
Then we'll lap the valves into the seats.
Check this one. It goes right through okay. The two exhaust ones.
All done. This job, it's one of those jobs that can go wrong
because you stick it in the oven, you've got to get it really hot. So you expand the aluminium.
But when you come to putting a new guide, I've got an old one here, you've got to make sure
that you've got to do it fairly quickly. That's got to be inserted. It's got a taper,
but you've got to get the angle right. So you put a little bit of lube on there.
Then when you put your tool through there, you're trying to do this when it's all really hot, you've
got four to do so you're a little bit pressured. So when it's lined up you're going to start
drifting with your hammer. You've got to make sure that you drift it in squarely. If that run off
on an angle, it will start lifting the aluminium. It will put a burr lip on the inside of the head.
You end up with that scenario where it can start gorging into the aluminium, and then you keep
banging away. You start spreading the load here, expanding this, distorting this, cracking a head.
So it's, yeah, it's a job you've got to do right. You've got to get it right. Just make sure you've
got that really hot enough first. The hotter the better because they won't have to drift quite so
hard. But yeah, once they're in... but always use a bit of brass. Don't do it with steel.
Use brass. You won't do any damage with that. And it's necessary just to take the lip out
at the end, sometimes. It won't collapse it very much. You can just see it had a little
bit of a pinch, but we managed to just file that away. So yeah, that's all done. It's good.