The jacket cuff is a stabilized strip of fabric used to finish the end of a sleeve. You can
use matching color fabric or a contrast for an extra style detail.
My jacket sleeve has the outer fabric and the lining. We want to make it easy and treat
this as a single layer of fabric, so the first step will be to baste the two fabrics together
½” from the edge.
From your cuff pattern cut out your fabric and interfacing pieces. One set for each sleeve.
Apply your fusible interfacing to the wrong side of your fabric piece. This will stabilize
the cuff to make it stiffer.
Fold the cuff in half, matching the short ends. Line up any notches and pin.
Sew this pinned edge at your sewing machine, using your standard seam allowance, mine is
⅝”, and then press your seam open.
You’ll notice I have two remaining raw edges, one side has a notch and the other side doesn’t.
On the unnotched edge, fold up to the wrong side to your seam allowance and pin. So I
would do ⅝”.
Press the folded edge and trim some of it off, leaving about ⅜”
Now slip the cuff onto your sleeve, right sides together. Pin the notch and seamline
first, then ease the other areas together.
Sew the bottom of the sleeve and cuff together at your sewing machine with the standard seam
allowance.
Trim the seam allowance and flip the sleeve out so you’re looking at the lining side.
When you pull your cuff away from the sleeve, you want the seam allowances going toward
the cuff.
Fold the cuff in half. The pressed edge of the cuff should go over the seam allowance of the sleeve.
Pin
Next we need to slip stitch the top of our cuff to the inside of our sleeve
I'm using a contrasting thread just so it's easier for you to see, but obviously want to use something that is matching.
I'm coming out of the edge of my cuff
Grabbing just a little bit of the lining fabric making sure not to grab
the fabric on the outer part of it.
Because we don't want this to show on the right side of our jacket.
Now I'm going to grab a little bit of the edge of the cuff.
And gently pull this through basically going back and forth between
the two sides.
A lot of people ask me
Why do I even have to do this time consuming slip stitch?
When I'm just going to machine stitch
the top of this cuff part
eventually and that's going to hold it together because it seems like you are double stitching.
The answer is, because when you do a top stitch.
The upper thread is usually the neater stitch
so you want to look at the right side of your fabric
for your jacket as your are doing that finishing stitch, the top stitch.
So it's really difficult if I just pin this and I have to flip it to the right side.
and take it to the machine
and sewing on the right side of the fabric.
It's difficult because
Your pins might get caught, its hard to pull them out, maybe things get unlined when you are sewing it.
So this just kind of guarantees that everything's going to be in the right place
everything stitched how it should be
and you can just do that finishing top stitch and be done with it.
So I'm going to go around the whole cuff
doing the slip stitch.
And we can move on to the next step.
To give it a finished look, top stitch on the cuff’s edge, next to the sleeve.
And that’s all it takes to have a professional looking cuff that finishes the sleeve without
having to do a hem. Repeat the steps to put a cuff on the other sleeve.
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