- [Donnie] Hey, this is Donnie Smith, and this is part two
in the DIY door ding repair, and in this video,
I am going to show you how to prep the panel,
and I'm gonna show you a trick
that's quick and easy of how you can keep
the primer area real small.
Now keep in mind that this is just a spot job,
do-it-yourself repair method.
To do it properly, you know, you'd want to sand
the entire door, and blend the paint,
and clear coat the whole door.
But that's not the method I'm gonna show you here.
I'm just showing you a quick method
that if you don't have a lot of money
and you're not wanting to spend a lot,
and you're just wanting to improve
the appearance of your car,
this is just a quick method for you to consider.
If you remember in the last video,
we repaired these, we put some putty on 'em,
and then we finished blocking it out with 180.
And now that it's blocked out I've
got the same block, the paint stick that I was using,
and I switched to 320, and now I'm just smoothing
those 180 grit scratches out with 320,
and I'm also goin' a little bit further
just to make sure that all the 180 grit scratches are out.
So I'm extending the, making the repair area
just a little bit bigger with a 320.
So I'm gonna sand both of those areas real good.
And now that I have it sanded, I'm gonna go over
and I'm gonna clean it with some wax and grease remover
to make sure it's all clean, you know, get all the dust
and anything else that got on there
during the repair process.
So I've got some wax and grease remover,
wiped it down, and allowed it to dry.
Now I'm gonna start priming.
I'm gonna freeze it right here
and explain a little bit about what I'm doing.
I'm just gonna use some spray can,
rattle can primer on this.
But if you'll notice, I've got this,
I've got a piece of plastic.
It can be a, you know, it can be cardboard
or anything else, but what I've done
is I cut a hole in the middle of it,
and I'm gonna hold this away from the panel
about an inch or so, then I'm gonna spray in that hole.
That's kind of like masking, and also it doesn't allow
the primer to go through and splatter and get all over.
So this way, you can keep the primer area real small,
and if it's not by an edge or anything,
you won't even have to do any masking.
Now if it's close to an edge where it could get into a jam
or something like that, you are gonna have
to do some masking, but these was in the center
of the door, so it made it real quick, simple, and easy.
Okay, you can see here that I am now priming it.
Like I said, I'm holding that about an inch away,
and I'm spraying through that hole,
and it's keeping that primer area real small.
I'm gonna put a coat on that area,
and I'm gonna put a coat on the other area,
and just like with any primer,
whether you're using a spray gun or rattle can
or whatever, it needs to flash off between coats.
So I'm gonna allow it to flash,
and now I'm puttin' another coat on.
And I'll put a coat on both of 'em.
I'm gonna put two coats, and then allow it to dry.
Now that I allowed the primer to dry the recommended time,
now I'm gonna block sand the primer,
and to do that, I'm gonna use the same paint stick
as a block that I've been using,
and I'm gonna use 400 grit sandpaper.
Now 400 grit is finer, and any time you're gonna be
final sanding, you know, gettin' a surface ready for paint,
you need to use 400 to 500 grit.
So I'm going to sand this area, and also notice
that I'm gonna, extending a little bit past
where the repair area was.
That's because this is the area that I'm gonna paint.
Now, anywhere that paint is going to be applied
it needs to be a 400 to make sure that
it's gonna adhere properly and stick good.
So I'll get these two areas, where paints'
gonna be applied sanded with 400.
And then I will prepare the areas
where clear coat will be applied.
Now I'm gonna have to freeze this again,
and I apologize, because I kinda messed up here.
I didn't mean to, and I'm not trying to skip steps,
and I am gonna show you what I did.
I thought the camera was recording, and
after doing these next few steps I realized that it wasn't.
So I apologize for that.
Okay now I'm doing straight and I used 800.
I used 800 anywhere clear coat is gonna be applied.
I went a little bit further out with the 800
than I did with the 400, to make ensure
that any paint that's going to be applied
it will stick properly, and adhere well
And now I'm going to go over from the top body line
to the bottom body line with 1200 grit.
And this is just to ensure the little bit of
over-spray gets outta there, that it will still stick.
And a 1200 can be buffed out.
I'll probably go, after it's painted and cleared,
I'll go over the panel witth some 1500
and 3000 and buff it out.
Then I'm gonna use the sandpaper by hand
to get the edges.
And, notice I have the front door open
to get the edge, don't hit he adjacent panel.
And also I open the door when I do the back edge
of the door, I'll open the back door.
And I'm just sanding all this with 1200 and this
can be buffed out, but I wanna make sure
that the paint or the clear goes a little bit further
than I was expecting, it will stick.
And once it's all painted I can
come back and buff everything.
But that wraps it up for this video, I know
I had some difficulties, had some problems editing
this video, or shooting this video, skipped part of it.
But, hopefully I cleared it up for you,
and if you have any questions be sure and ask.
And if you like this video be sure and like it,
share it with your friends.
Talk to you next time.