- In this video, Noah's gonna show you how to hang
and paint some doors while they're off the car.
We got these two used doors.
We got 'em prepped, sanded.
One of them had a little bit of repair to do to it.
And then we got them in the booth, masked off,
wiped down with the cleaner, and tacked off.
And now we are using a static gun to make sure
that we discharge any static electricity.
What that's gonna do is just make a cleaner job
because static electricity kind of charges things to it.
Like dirt wants to stick to it.
Well, by doing this,
we're discharging that static electricity
and have less likely a chance of getting dirt nibs in it.
And anything we can do to prevent dirt
and prevent sanding and buffing,
that's always be a lot of time saved in the end.
But he's going around here,
and notice that we have these doors hanging.
And this is gonna be a silver,
so any metallics, or pearls, or anything like that,
you wanna make sure that they're hanging
the way they're gonna be in the vehicle.
That will make a difference
depending on how well it matches.
They say if it's a hood, paint it straight.
I'm talking about when you're painting parts
off of the vehicle.
If it's doors have them vertical like this.
So you want them to be on the car
like they're gonna be sitting
for the best match possible.
Another reason we're painting these doors off
is because it's a lot easier to get to both sides
and be able to paint the jams and the inside
which there are different colors.
They're used doors,
and they came different colors than the vehicle.
So everything has to be painted.
And another good reason for this is we brought the car in,
the Nissan, and we looked up the paint code,
we looked at our variances,
and we selected the closest silver that matched the car.
But that's no guarantee it's gonna match perfect,
especially on silvers and high-metallic colors.
A lot of times they're not gonna match perfect
and then you're gonna have to blend.
But we decided we'd let her have her car
while we get these doors,
and we do the hardware work, and we get them sprayed.
And then if we needed to blend after we get the doors on
and look at it, or bring the vehicle back,
we could blend into the front fender and the quarter panel,
and we could do that separately.
We wouldn't have to have the doors to do that.
We would just prep the fender and the quarter,
and then blend in, and then clear those.
But we'll talk more about that here in a little bit.
Right now what he is doing is painting the inside.
Now we're not gonna show you spraying the inside
on every step, but I did want to show you this
because we are having to spray the inside.
And this is the sealer that the paint code asks for,
the primer sealer.
So that paint code, whenever you look in the computer,
it'll tell you what gray shade, in other words,
how light or dark of a primer sealer that you need to shoot
for that color to be the correct color.
If he was using a real dark primer sealer on this,
or one that it didn't recommend, the paint may be correct,
it may be mixed right, but since it's translucent
and don't have a lot of pigment,
you may spray it and then the color'll look darker
than it actually is,
when actually the paint may have been correct,
but you're kind of seeing through that paint a little bit,
and seeing what's underneath that.
So that's one of the reasons
this primer sealer is so important.
If we just sprayed over those doors,
who knows what shades of silver
that the car would have been.
Each door would have been a mismatch
because these were both two different colors from the car,
and come from two different wrecked cars,
it's the front and rear door.
So we want to make sure it's all uniform,
the recommended gray shade underneath there,
so if hopefully, if it does match,
it will all match and look the same.
But like I said, silvers, a lot of times,
are very hard to what we call butt match.
Basically putting it up to the new panel
without blending into the new panel.
It's hard to do that with silver a lot of times.
But like I said, so the customer could keep the car,
and we could get these doors ready.
And then all we would have to do is do the blending
or put the doors on whenever we get the vehicle back,
and that way she's not without a car all this time.
So showed you the insides, and that's gonna be the only step
that we will have to apply the base coat
and the clear coat back there.
But now he's applying that primer sealer
on the top surfaces.
And I like to do the inside first
so that on the outside you get a nice even coat,
whether that's sealer base coat,
so the metallic lays down correctly, or a clear coat.
I want that overspray of the clear,
I want the outside of the surface to be the last thing
that you spray.
That way if anything comes and lands on it
before you go over that,
you won't have that dry spray look.
So I always like to do my edges, or insides, in this case,
first, and then come to the outside.
And again, this is primer sealer,
and this is the recommended gray shade that it's asked for
to get the correct color that it shows
on that variant deck that we looked at.
Like I said, if it wasn't the correct primer sealer,
the color would not match.
So we just put one coat of this.
It just needs one coat to hide what's underneath it
so we have the correct color.
Now primer sealer doesn't really help
with corrosion protection,
but it does help because you're applying more mils,
or be more durability,
and it will provide adhesion for the base coat.
And notice how he's having to get to some of these angles.
He may have to turn this gun upside down.
Now you can't do that with any gun, with a cup gun,
but these 3M PPS cups allows us to do that.
Now we're putting our base coat on.
Now notice he's not spraying the inside
because we we did spray the inside.
But just to save time, we didn't video that.
But we're just gonna show you spraying the outside.
This is waterborne that he is spraying.
Works real well, but you do need a lot of air movement
if you're gonna spray this.
If you're DIY at home,
this is probably not the best option for you.
But he put a medium wet coat, nice and even,
'cause you want that metallic to be on there nice and even.
You don't want no stripes.
If you spray it too heavy, it might mottle on you.
So we're just gonna put some nice even coats.
Not too heavy on the base coat.
Now when you get to clear coat, that'll be different
Than you do wanna apply it really heavy.
And if it's too heavy, it's real hard to dry, too.
And we'll show you that here in a little bit.
Now with waterborne,
what PPG recommends is about 75 to 80% overlap.
So a little bit tighter overlap.
But you're gonna move just a little bit faster.
'Cause like I said, if you get this on too thick,
it can cause some problems.
You don't want that real, real wet look
whenever you're done spraying the base coat.
So it's key when spraying base coat
to have all your angles right, to keep it from striping,
to put nice even coats on, not to put it on too thick,
to keep it from mottling.
This is not clear coat, so just nice, even coats is key.
Now with waterborne,
it takes a little bit more work to dry it,
which it's actually can work pretty faster
if you've got air movement in a booth like this.
And you can kinda see that water evaporating out of there.
And whenever it looks flat,
and you can see that all that water has evaporated,
you're ready for another coat.
It's not like most of your solvents where it has
an absolute time of like 15 minutes between coats.
It's as soon as you see all that water evaporate.
And you can see it pretty easy there,
then it's ready to put another coat on.
So we did that, and our booth is not set up for waterborne.
That's when we have to use these handheld blowers
to help it dry.
If we didn't have those, it would take quite a bit longer
to get them ready for the next coat.
But those guns do come in handy.
Now he's putting a second coat on, and again,
he's just gonna put them on nice and even,
not too thick, not too wet, just nice and even.
And again, make sure all your gun angles are right
because if you're heavy on top and not the bottom,
that's gonna cause stripes.
And that's something that happens with silvers, or golds,
or any type of metallics.
You really gotta watch for that.
And then with waterborne, there's even a control coat
that we're gonna show you here in a little bit
that you have to do with Envirobase, anyway.
I don't know about every waterborne,
but if you don't put that control coat on
it is gonna look mottled when you're done.
So he's getting the two.
And again, we're painting the backs of these as well
before we come and paint the fronts.
But we're not gonna show you every step of doing that.
That'd make the video way too long.
And he's getting the second door sprayed.
And again, like I mentioned at the beginning of this video,
if the door's set vertical like that,
you wanna set them up vertical.
If it's flat like a hood, you wanna set them flat
because that will make a better paint match
whenever you go to put the panels on.
Now we did luck out.
I will jump ahead a little bit while he's getting that.
And we put these doors on, and you could not tell.
we did not have to blend, which kind of surprised me.
I thought we'd have to.
And I even told the customer, we may,
once we get her vehicle, we may have to blend.
But these matched well.
Now he's doing a control coat.
That's just basically putting a light, thin coat
of metallic to set on top of it, just to hide any mottling,
and you turn your fan pattern all the way open,
you lower the pressure on your gun,
and then you go further back away.
He's about a foot away on this.
So you want to do a real tight overlap
about 90%, but really, really fast.
So this is what this is doing,
it's basically just putting a thin coat of metallic
on top just to kind of hide any mottling,
or anything underneath,
so you have the nice uniform metallic look
that you should when you're finished.
Okay, now is where you really change your mindset.
Whenever you come to start doing the clear coat,
you spray completely different.
'Cause you're not so worried about being so uniform,
and nice, and even.
This you want to wet out.
You want to put it on super wet right before it runs.
You want it glossy.
So you gotta slow down or get closer.
You kind of gain your technique of doing that as you go,
as the experience, whether you get closer, or you slow down.
But either way, you want this on super wet,
'cause however it looks when you're done spraying,
that's how it's gonna look when it's dry.
So if there's a dry spot, there's gonna be a dry spot
that you may have to buff out when you're completed.
However, you do make a run, you may have to buff that run,
sand and buff that run out when you're done.
So you have to get the right experience,
the right feel for it.
But you do wanna get this nice and wet.
And again, we did do the inside of this already.
We sprayed the inside, and now we're following
with the first coat of clear coat on the outside.
Nice and wet.
And you do want these full wet coats.
And usually that's not a mistake that made.
Usually trying to get the base coat to look like this
is probably one of the more of the mistakes that I see,
trying to make that base coat look nice and wet,
rather than nice and even.
But yeah, it's a total change of mind
when you go to spraying that clear coat.
Nice and glossy is what you want.
Now, this is a solvent clear,
so we go back to our 50% overlap.
But again, you want it on nice and glossy.
And we are allowing flash times in between these coats.
Didn't wanna video that, but we are allowing flash time.
I think on this clear is 10 to 15 minutes.
We allow that, and then we come back,
and this is the final coat.
It recommended two full, wet coats.
And remember, you wanna get everything nice,
and wet, and glossy, and if you see a dry spot,
make sure that you come back and get that.
'Cause however, that looks when you're done spraying,
that is how it's gonna look when it is dry.
So this is just all technique.
You get a skill for it.
You kind of build it.
You'll actually kind of develop your own spraying technique.
If you have a tendency spray a little bit further back,
you know that you're gonna have to spray a lot slower.
As you become more comfortable,
most painters will start painting a lot closer.
But only thing is if you're spraying
real close to the panel, you gotta move really fast.
And the problem about starting out that way,
trying to be too close when you start out,
is if you are too close, and you hesitate,
or something happens, you step on the hose,
and it holds your gun still for a minute.
Just number of things can happen.
If you've ever sprayed,
there's like a thousand different things that can go wrong,
it seems like, but if you hesitate just for a second,
it's gonna run on you
because you're putting it on so thick and so close.
And if you're a little bit further away,
and you hesitate a little bit,
you might still be able to get away with it.
So that's just something each painter has to develop,
kind of like welding.
No two welders weld exactly the same,
and no two painters paint exactly the same either.
So after he gets this second full wet coat,
we will let them dry, and then we'll call the customer,
tell her to bring the vehicle in,
and we're gonna put them on.
We'll put the doors up to it
and see how well we think they match, which we did.
And I don't think I've got any after pictures.
I didn't have time, but they matched perfect.
I mean, it looked good.
We called the customer, had her bring her Nissan in.
We installed the two doors,
put all the hardware back on, and it looked great.
Noah did a great job on this.
And that, my friends, is how you spray doors off the car.
If you have any questions or comments, go down below.
Thanks for watching, take care,
and we will see you in the next video.