Akiyo: No. No!!
Gotta tell this.
Tomoa!!
WHATTTTTA?
Ikedai did..
Tomoa: Did he record 5 seconds?
Ikedai: So I diddiddid!!!
Congrats!! Ikedai!!!
Tomoa: We made fun of it enough. Let's talk serious.
Akiyo, please!!
Akiyo: We actually haven't seen Ikedai did record 5 seconds yet.
Akiyo: So let us show it. Tomoa: I wanna see it too.
Ikedai: This is it.
Akiyo: Tomoa, you have graduated speed. But if there some advise, you may...
Tomoa: To be honest. I've been watching you practicing and feeling you are getting better at the lower part.
Tomoa: It's obvious that you are climbing good at the lower part on this video.
Yet I can see you get tired from the middle to upper part. Some fluctuations.
Tomoa: It looks you can be faster.
Akiyo: Tell me in detail. What No. and which step is good?
Tomoa: Until No.8 is so good. Starting and acceleration part.
It's just a instant feeling.
But I see you getting unbalanced from No.8 point of dyno.
Tomoa: However, congrats man. You came up to this fast.
Tomoa: Congratulation. Ikedai: Thanks.
Ikedai: I'm now in 5 seconds world.
Akiyo: What was a reaction time?
Ikedai: 1'143.
Tomoa: I see. So you still got some margin.
Akiyo: I'd like to ask Ikedai about Speed. We don't get serious with you so this time is the one.
Tomoa: Ikedai talks.
Ikedai: OK Akiyo: So
Akiyo: Your best time was?? Ikedai: 6'01 sec.
Ikedai: This June I recorded 6'0.
Akiyo: But I remember that you've already did 6'0 in the last year, in July.
Tomoa: It was when we did the race. Akiyo: So you did 6'0 back then.
Akiyo: I've felt you could reach to 5 seconds in the last summer.
Akiyo: We talked sometimes and we were pretty sure that Ikedai can get it sooner or later.
Akiyo: In fact, you could not.
Akiyo: Than, it's been more than a year, 15 months.
Even it's just 0'1 seconds. I believe there is a huge difference between 5'99 <--> 6'00 seconds.
What was the biggest effort you have put onto that 0.1 seconds?
Ikedai: The most hard part of it was to make my body completely ready for the recording moment.
One day, I realize that I could do it tomorrow. But the next day, my body doesn't properly work...
Ikedai: To set my body in the best climbing condition on the certain day was the most difficult thing. Tomoa: I know it.
Akiyo: It's my feeling that Ikedai is always fast on a hot day. You'd be faster as a day is more hot.
Akiyo: However, it's October and I don't feel it's so hot now.
Akiyo: What do you think the reasons that you could make a new record?
Ikedai: Yes. I have been keep training for all the time even when my time was not so good.
After one year, my body became fundamentally strong.
So no matter it's sunny or cold day, I am now be able to climb more and I don't get tired as I used to.
Akiyo: Can you tell as your weekly training schedule and routine as a speed climber? How much weight training you do?
Ikedai: I do speed 3 or 4 times in a week.
Weight training 2 times a week. This weight training is on a same day when I do speed climbing.
Bouldering, 2 times a week.
Akiyo: You have recorded 6'0 in July, 2020. But in the winter, you were away from a speed wall.
I know that you have been mainly working on a basic training.
Akiyo: Do you feel that weight training were meaningful to 5'99?
Ikedai: Yes. By the basic training, I got stronger legs and back muscle, so I feel it's much easier to climb.
Well, it's like I feel less grade for a speed climbing.
Tomoa: Your weight increase? Ikedai: Not much. Just a little by little.
Akiyo: So you mean you got weight in the winter and worked out in the summer to get the record? Or is is just all about your fundamentality?
Ikedai: I'd rather feel my basic is strengthened.
Tomoa: His body is totally different now. Much more muscle.
Ikedai: I ate a lot of eggs. lol Akiyo: Upper or lower body?
Tomoa: Both. He was originally had the strong legs anyway.
Ikedai: In the past, I was more like a leg strong climber. But recently, I see my body bigger and cool after having shower. Tomoa: You think you are more attractive?? lol
Ikedai: Yeah. Like...Should I ask ladies for a dinner?? No this is too much talk. Tomoa: it's good. We can upload.
Akiyo: I recognize one memorable Ikedai's Instagram post.
Akiyo: It was a....such... (Not memorable. lol) Ikedai: Ikedai Rocket??
Tomoa: Got it!
Akiyo: It was about something like making a rocket at the starting line. Preparing to launch!! Tomoa: Ikedai rocket!!
Akiyo: I saw the post about it last year.
Akiyo: Have you make your own rocket?
Ikedai: Ikedai Rocket is ignited today. Just lunched!!
Tomoa: Startling now. Ikedai: Yes.
Ikedai: I don't know how far it can travel. Akiyo: Your "One year rocket"!
Tomoa: I wish the rocket is built well.
Ikedai: Fuel is charged. Don't know how far it can go.
Ikedai: At least, it is off the ground? Tomoa: It seems.
Akiyo: So your rocket is real. Ikedai: Yes, it is.
Tomoa: I am happy. You've been under the ground. Ikedai: I was under and down.
Tomoa: When we were speeding together in July. Around the time we were racing, I was feeling that the special moment has come.
Tomoa: Like I found a rival. Ikedai: Climb up nose to nose.
Akiyo: Just before the Olympics in July, 2021?
Tomoa: No. July, 2020. Akiyo: Oh, last year.
Ikedai: When we did Instagram LIVE of speed racing. Tomoa: Back then I was in a racing mode.
Tomoa: But all the sudden, he was gone in the winter.
Tomoa: He started to dig a hole on the ground. Ikedai: I was down.
I was worried about him. The time wasn't good...
Tomoa: He kept working hard and finally here he is.
Akiyo: Let me ask about the timing. Two Speed World Cup of South Korea and Indonesia was cancelled that Ikedai was going to participate.
Akiyo: I think people normally get down and may find it difficult to get motivated
because your target competitions have disappeared.
Akiyo: Were there any change in yourself due to the cancellation of World Cup? Or have you find new target instead?
Ikedai: To tell you the truth, I was shocked.
Ikedai: Previously I sometimes talked to Tomoa that
"I am not a competitor. Just wanna be faster".
So I said even if there were no competition, I would keep speed climbing.
But in these days, as I get faster,
I am changed to look forward to be in competitions. To enjoy.
Ikedai: My condition was great just before Korea. So exictded.
Yes, I was good....But I felt what I could be does not change anyhow. (He refers to record 5'99 seconds.)
Ikedai: Eventually I could reach 5'99.
Tomoa: I remember the time when South Korea World Cup was cancelled.
Tomoa: I saw Ikedai practicing as he used to be. I was wondering how he was setting his mind. I was shocked.
Ikedai: I may feel same if I saw someone like that. Tomoa: Next competition will be Speed Japan Cup in March, 2022.
Tomoa: So you're in off season. Also off for another rivals.
I was just impressed by your training style and you actually did become faster in that situation.
Ikedai: Did I impress you?? Tomoa: You did.
Tomoa: You were just a practice addictive? Ikedai: Kind of. I had something inside me that I was reaching to a point.
Akiyo: How much do you think you can shorten the time? Any image?
Ikedai: Image? I've been feeling that
I could reach 5'6 since the beginning of this summer.
Ikedai: I was pretty sure that I could do. Now it's close to reality.
Ikedai: 5'8 is not so far. I'd get 5'6 and want to be one of world class Speed climbers.
Tomoa: As long as I've been seeing Ikedai practicing, I know that you have a potential of 5 seconds.
Physically fore sure!
Tomoa: I was watching your partial practice and thought you were as fast as the 5 seconds fast climbers.
Tomoa: Now the parts are in one piece. But it's not complete. So you can be more faster I guess.
Ikedai: Yes. Well, I was not planning to climb all sections together.
I did a lot of weight training before I recorded 5'9. If I were more fresh and I could be faster.
Ikedai: Desu. (In Japanese, "That's it" or "Period".) Tomoa: Tisu. Ikedai: Tisu. (Just saying Desu in a funny way.)
Akiyo: Do you have new target?
Ikedai: Next competition for me is Speed Japan Cup in March, 2022.
I got an extra time, so I aim for 5'72 which is Tomoa's Japan record.
Ikedai: I will knock you down. Like this! Tomoa: OK. lol
Tomoa: Well, I am not a speed competitor anymore though... Ikedai: If I get faster than you, shall you speed again??
Ikedai: When talk about Speed climbing, I don't like me not being the faster.
Ikedai: So I will be the one. Tomoa: Wish you all the best.
Akiyo: After Tokyo2020, many combined climbers have stopped competing in Speed. On the other hand for Paris2024, Speed climbing will be one of individual events, so there will be more attention for speed climbers. Any comments or feeling about it?
Ikedai: I am simply sad about friends are not in speed.
I reminisce about the 1st Speed Japan Cup. There were many strong climbers and gorgeous. So it's sad that friends are gone now.
Ikedai: However, we recently see new young speed climbers. New speed specialist generation. So I'm excited.
Ikedai: And Paris2024. Tomoa: How do you feel to have Speed as one event?
Ikedai: There are no speed star climber in Japan, so I want to be the one.
For world wide, I hope Speed climbing would be more popular.
Tomoa: I totally agree. I've been enjoying speed and I thought it's cool sport.
Tomoa: But in reality. It's now almost impossible to earn enough money to live by only doing speed climbing.
Tomoa: Ikedai will be a top runner in Japan. I see a bright future.
Ikedai: I will be a hero? Tomoa: Let's become like Cristiano Ronaldo.
Akiyo: Since speed become the Olympic event, the world speed time record has been kept updating. How fast do you think climbers would reach in coming year or before Paris2024?
Ikedai: Next year? Akiyo: The next level world record?
Ikedai: I guess there will be one who reach to 4'99.
Tomoa: I think of two climbers. 4'99. Akiyo: Veddriq Leonardo and Kiromal Katibin?
Tomoa: Yes. Two of them are the tops in the world now. Ikedai: So fast.
Tomoa: They record 5'2 in a competitions. Akiyo: And I heard that the personal best is 5'0.
Tomoa: We have two, three year until Paris2024. Ikedai: There are chance of 4'99.
Tomoa: You should train overseas in Indonesia. Ikedai: Should we?
Tomoa: Me too? lol
Tomoa: I wish I could be in speed event in Paris2024.
Ikedai: I will be there, so watch me.
Akiyo: There may be a lot of speed climbers who are going to retire by Paris2024.
Tomoa: I realize that there is a huge meaning that sport climbing is in the Olympics. Get motivated so much.
Ikedai: Big goal!
Tomoa: This time, we took a video focusing on Ikedai since he did record 5'99.
Tomoa: Ikedai is always seen as a character like an entertainer or comedian.
Tomoa: He definitely has dedicated passion. So don't miss it. (Ikedai's head: Enjoy 9: 1 Serious)
Ikedai: I will keep climbing up! Tomoa: Me too!
English subtitle by FreiHeit
Ikedai is always smiling and positive.