Hello John Talley here with partzilla.com. Today I'm going to show
you how to change out the rear brake pads on our 2016 Polaris 900 Ranger XP.
So all we need to do is head to the back end, get it lifted up, get that tire out
of the way, and I'll show you how to get it done. So let's go. Alright guys, this is
gonna be skill level 1. Not really going to be that difficult.
Let's go over some of the tools that you're going to need to accomplish this:
5 millimeter Allen, a 15 and a 19 millimeter socket, 3/8 ratchet as always.
And as far as the torque wrenches, there's a couple of different ways you
can do this. If you have a lower value torque wrench, something that's under 100
pounds like this one, you can use it but then you also have to have a breaker bar. On
the other hand if you've got one that goes to at least 120, you can get away
with just using it. Only you have the weird tool that you're going to need is
the C clamp. You'll see once we get into it. Alright now as far as the parts
you're gonna need? Reference our parts diagrams and I'll give an exploded
view of everything-- what it looks like and the different part numbers-- that way you
can go in and order the different parts and pieces that you need for your
machine. So once you have for your tools and your parts together, we can go over
there and I'll show you how to get it done. Alright let's start by breaking
these lug nuts loose. That is pretty pathetic there, because when you see me
tighten these back up you'll understand. What you're supposed to have on here is
30 foot pounds plus 90 degrees. And when I go to put this back on there you'll
see just how much effort that takes. Alright they're broken loose, let's go
ahead and lift it up and get it on a pair of jack stands on the back.
Alright let's start by getting what they call the pad adjustment bolt out of the
way. They say you only need to back it off a turn or two. What I like to do is
take it all the way out. Next I want to remove the bolts that are actually
mounting the caliper carrier to the hub. It's a 15 millimeter. Now I just slide the
whole assembly off. And actually these brakes were, they were in pretty good shape.
Your wear is going to be when they get less than 4 millimeters thick. I mean
this one probably still had another 500 miles left in it, but we're already
here, I've already got the pads, I'm gonna go and swap them out. So the only trick
to this just to grab a c-clamp and then we're gonna compress the piston back
into the the caliper housing. So we're gonna go on the backside of the pads, I
think I'm going to aim for that little banjo bolt right there. And we just turn
that and press it right back in. And it's not gonna get flush all the way when it
gets to this point, that is all the way in the bore, so you don't need to try to
force it any farther than that. Now when that adjustment bolt out of the
way, that allows the caliper to slide in far enough into this plate to where
you've got enough room to lift off the pads. Otherwise you can't do it. So that
has to be at least pulled back for this to happen. With the old pads off, we want
to inspect these little rubber boots right here because there's actually
grease on these two pins that are going into the the caliper housing. They need
to be moving pretty smooth otherwise they'll bind up or worse yet clamp down
on them, and then not release, and then that'll burn them up. So this feels
pretty good. I don't see any rips. If yours have any rips, go and replace them.
They're not that expensive. And if you do replace them, clean off the grease. It
probably has some dirt mixed in if they are cut. Put on a good bearing type
grease and then put it back together. Al right,
mine look good, so let's go ahead and get our new pads in. At this point you can go
ahead and spread the the pads open, slide it over the rotor, then we get it bolted
back up. They're snugged down, I'm gonna grab the the torque wrench and torque it to
46 foot-pounds. At this point you need to go ahead and just pump up the brakes, get
them centered. There's a couple of hand pumps, maybe two or three. Now is where
you're gonna need some of that Loctite. We want to go ahead and put a
little bit on the threads. You put it in until the bottoms out and then we're
gonna back it off a half a turn. All right, let's go ahead and get our tire
back on and I'll show you how to get it torqued properly.
And there's actually a couple of different ways you can do this. If you
have a smaller torque wrench like this one right here, it only goes up to one
hundred foot-pounds. These require 120. So, they give you an out. What you can do on
the aluminum ones-- because they do take a lot more torque than the the stamped--
take it to 30 foot pounds, and then another 90 degrees. So I'll show you both
ways. Alright now, take a breaker bar. Note where that is and then go 90
degrees, so about right here is where I need to stop. There it is. Now if you
happen to have a torque wrench that can go past 120, or up to 120 you can
just go straight to it. That is definitely the way I'd want to do it. I
don't like doing the torque angle. Go buy a bigger torque wrench. It's what I
would suggest. And keep in mind if you, like I said, if you have the steel ones,
it only requires sixty. Aluminum? have to go to 120. Alright guys, that
pretty much wraps this one up. All I have to do now is the same procedure I did
over on the other side with my remaining brake pads that came in this one box.
Keep in mind when you order the brake pads for the back they actually come
with all four pads. If you go to the front,
you're gonna need quantity two because they only send two in a box. Not my
decision on that. But listen, speaking of parts, if you need any why don't you come
see us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of. If you have any
questions or comments, leave them in the section below and I'll do my best to answer
them. Until next time we just want to say thanks for watching.