Hello welcome to Enots engineering I'm Alan
in this video we continue making the milling machine lamp
and we start by making a lock nut that holds the two sections together
so let's go in to the workshop and see how we do it
I'll just use the file to take off the edges
it's just taken the sharp edges off each side that the knurling tool threw up
I should be able to come in here
I've just turned the part round
I can use parting off tool just to go along the face
let's run the tap through
and take out any bits
people paying attention would have noticed
that I didn't put the thread in before I parted it off
the way I did that just held it in the vice in the lead jaws
and put the tap in
this is the nut we've just made and that goes onto the thread
then this part will screw onto there
and the nut will lock it up
lock the lamp in position
so the next thing I need to do is finish off drilling the 5mm hole
I'll need to continue that hole just till it touches the inside of that spherical
so I know when I cut through the spherical that will break into the hole
so we need to go down the full depth of that drill
and all I do is put this in the chuck grip it on the flat
move it forward and hold it
Put a 5mm drill in the tailstock
so that drill will go straight in
it's gone to they're just into the spherical
so when a machine is spherical the hole will come into the spherical
rod that's in the chuck is a 5mm rod
a 20mm diameter so that's how I'm centring the chuck
what I'm doing now is machining the last two sphericals
this flat face making the diameter here
so that spherical wi'll go into that by cutting this diameter
and then cutting the groove all the way around so the cables can go around
I've located it in the chuck I'm holding it on a 5mm cap head
and to stop it spinning it's just resting up against the chuck jaw
Any movement the chuck jaw will stop it spinning
and I just want to go in with this tool
too that depth and then bring the tool towards me
so that it cuts the diameter
you can see now it's machining this diameter here
and just under the cap head here
so now what I can do
you can see that the tool has got an angle on it
so I can now wind in in and reset it so the cutting face is square
you can see I've machine this face there so the diameter is just over 20mm
from that face to the back of the spherical and I've also machined the face of the spherical
so I know this is true to the diameter
and that's to allow the other half of the spherical to go in there
the holes should line up and it gives a nice seal around this edge
so what I need to do on this part is put the counter bore in there
so the cables can run around each side
and the way I do that
I have this tool which has a radius formed on the end
so that will go into the face and cut the channel
this is just held in the chuck with a 5mm cap head
slack the jaws just push that back into the jaws
so it's located
okay that should do it let's take this off
now all I need to do on this now is go down with the 5mm drill
so it just comes out on the inside there
so the wires can pass through and around
and then machine the centre piece down to remove some of that bulk
okay change the tool for the form tool
see there it's broke into the hole sothe wires can come through
It just wants the sharp edge taking off that one's done
Just line this up now
the next thing I'm doing is just taking out each piece in the middle
so the cables will come straight through
That's relieve that hole
just so the screw has a flat surface to come into contact with
now this is virtually finished except for putting two flats on the thread
okay let me just recap where we've got to so far
I've machined the sphericals machined the inside
and what I've just done is put two flats on the thread and put the nut on
tighten it up
the same on the steel part I filed the thread flats
I just put the nut on bolted it up
so those two are fitted on there then this will fit onto this one
This screw fits here
this one will go on here
this parts bolted onto the machine
and the switch goes on here
so whenever I set that it will stay there now
because it's solid joints and not a flexible
The next job then is to rewire the switch
put the wire through
I will give it a good clean first take the swarf and bits out
rewire the switch and then we'll fit it back onto the machine
now just started to thread the cable into the part
and this is the type of cable I'm using
it came off the milling machine it's just got two wires inside with the cover
I can fit this through the holes without having to take the cover off
so it's a bit more insulation what I'm doing when I put the cap heads through
I'm just put in a small section of shrink tubing over the thread
so the threads are not going to dig into the cable
and also before I've put the cable through I've taken the scraper
and gone around the edges to take off any sharp edges
in the back of the hole there to take out the edge a sharp edge
so there are no sharp edges for the cable to rub on
and then I'm just putting the cable round
thread it through the other end
pull it so the two faced can come together you can see that just fits over there
and the last thing to do put the cap head through
sleeve make sure the cables at the back
just screw that in
check that it's not trapped between anything
and then just tighten the cap head down
Both ends in
on this end I fitted the switch wired it up and fitted the bulb holder
So the bulb goes in there
and then the top goes on
so all I need to do on the other end I've put a little connector block
they were crimped cables with just a bit of plastic over them
so I've replace that with the connector block
connect that to the machine and bolt this back on the machine and then we'll test it
l've fitted the lamp now to the machine
You can see here's the fitting and the pieces that I made
so we'll switch this one on you see the light is closer to the spindle
it's where you need it where the works going to be
doesn't move Its solid
I can adjust it by slackening the screws in and out up and down
when I adjust it it stays there tapping it it won't move
this flexible pipe does tend to move
I think that's another job done
it's a lot more compact
before this the lampshade was actually touching the table
so now its the light where you need it
well that's it for today I hope that was useful hope you enjoyed it
and we'll see you next time on
Enots engineering