- [Kristen] Loom knit the Reverse Edelweiss stitch,
either flat and in-the-round.
Now, this stitch is inspired by the Edelweiss stitch.
It was actually a happy mistake when converting.
The Edelweiss has a flatter look,
it looks like the edelweiss flower
that's found on the Swiss Alps.
But when we make one little design change,
it makes these beautiful outward bumps
and it looks like mini tulips, to me.
But I'm calling it the Reverse Edelweiss
because it is just a simple change from the original.
It's a nice and stretchy design,
whether you make it flat or in-the-round.
This is called the Elizabeth Hat,
it comes in five sizes
and we'll have a link to that pattern down below.
But in this tutorial,
I'm gonna show you how to make it
in a flat panel and in-the-round,
today, on GoodKnit Kisses.
Welcome to GoodKnit Kisses.
We're all about helping you stitch your love
and love your stitches.
To get the written pattern for the Reverse Rdelweiss stitch,
flat and in-the-round,
click down in the link in the description below.
And if you'd like the Elizabeth Hat pattern,
again, it comes in five sizes,
that link is down below as well.
We do also have a tutorial for making the hat
and a separate one for just making the decreased crown,
especially if you're gonna work on this flexiloom here.
You do not have to use the flexiloom that's shown here.
For the edelweiss stitch,
you can use whatever loom you want and whatever,
whatever yarn you want,
as long as the yarn is appropriate
to the loom you are using.
Today, I'm working with a medium four weight yarn
and a 3/8 gauge loom.
This is 21 stitches that I've cast on.
You can cast on in whatever direction you want.
I'm going to work the stitches
that are kind of the specialty rows
from left to right in this video.
But you can also work them from right to left.
Now, when I get to working this stitch pattern in-the-round,
I'm going to work from right to left
in-the-round continuously.
So you'll be able to see it from either direction.
So, if you'll just skip down
to the timestamp down in the description below,
you can jump to either one.
So if you're right or left-handed,
you'll be able to see which direction makes it easier
for you to work.
Okay.
So, this is a multiple of two plus one,
meaning your stitches need to be divisible by two
or you can do a divisible by four, either one,
but then you need that extra stitch.
So, if you're working with one of these looms,
just make sure the plus one is working
on one of these pairs here,
you don't use all of them.
Okay, so, you're gonna start by casting on
and then you're gonna work your first row.
If you're working the direction I am, I casted on
and then made my first stitch on the right side.
And you're going to go ahead and knit row one.
So row one of this four row pattern repeat is knit.
So go ahead and knit all stitches.
This is a cast-on of 21.
And I'm not gonna show the cast-on here
but we do have videos, links down in the description below.
Go ahead and pause your video,
work on row one,
I'll meet you back up at the other end.
See you in a moment.
All right, row one, you just knit all stitches.
You can use the U-wrap knit that I did or a true knit.
You could use an E-wrap,
however, I have not tested it
but do not use an E-wrap on row two.
So row two starts off,
we're going to knit peg one, just a U-wrap knit stitch here.
And then the next stitches are gonna be worked in pairs
and we're going to use a true knit stitch and a purl.
But we're gonna be working two stitches together.
So we're going to be moving peg one over to peg two.
Now, I'm saying it in pairs.
I know that this is technically peg two to over three
but just bear with me.
We're gonna work in pairs and I'm gonna call the first, one
and the second one, two.
So peg two now has two loops on it.
We're gonna take our working yarn
and go behind the first peg,
go around in front of the second peg
and act like you're gonna you U-wrap knit
but we're going to go below both of these stitches
on the bottom and scoop downward and make a loop.
And that's going to be like a true knit stitch
but we don't take these old ones off of the loom.
We just move this new stage over to peg one,
place it on here and tighten up with our working yarn.
Now we're gonna bring our working yarn
down below peg two, okay?
Just like this.
Just hold it with your thumb down here
and then use your tool
to come down through both of those stitches,
grab that working yarn and pull upward to make a loop.
That's a purl two together.
So we just did a knit two together
and now we're doing a purl two together
and that is in the same stitch.
So, we're gonna take these old two off
and take our new loop and put it on peg two.
And then tighten up your stitch.
So that is a knit two together, purl two together
in the same stitch.
So let's do that again.
We're going to pick up peg one, move it to peg two,
put the yarn behind peg one, in front of peg two,
pull that loop down through the bottom two loops,
move a new loop to peg one, tighten it up,
put the yarn down below pegged two,
put our tool underneath to pull up a loop
to purl two together.
Take off the old two loops
and put the new loop on peg two and tighten up.
There you go.
So, now you're gonna work all the way until the end.
The last two here will be a pair together.
Pause your video and meet me at that point.
We'll see you soon.
Row three, we're going to be working a knit stitch,
all the way across.
So go ahead and U-wrap knit all the way across.
Pause your video and I will see you for row four.
See you soon.
All right, row four, you're gonna be working in pairs
to start off with.
So you're gonna save your very last edge for a knit stitch,
just like you had on row one,
it's just shifted.
So go ahead and start moving your stitches
by making the first stitch moved over to
or placing the first stitch over on the second one,
go ahead and wrap the second one on the top,
pull downward to make that new stitch,
place it on peg one, tighten that up,
put your working yarn down below peg two,
go underneath those two loops, scoop up a loop,
take that old one off and put the new one on.
Generally the first couple of stitches are kind of loose.
So make sure you're not dropping those stitches
off as you go.
And then continue working in pairs.
This one's easy because, well, on the flexiloom,
you can see that they're in pairs of colors.
So it's really easy to see.
And then when you get to that very last stitch,
you can knit that stitch.
So it's shifted over and you have this type of stitch
where it's every other one has a little bump here.
So when you look at it
and you see a row with all these special stitches here,
you can see that the next one kind of jogs over by a stitch.
So, a full row repeat is this row, a knit row,
actually, it's a knit row,
then you have this row
and then you have a knit row and then you have this row.
So that's four rows right there.
This is a four-row repeat.
Also, this is a very stretchy stitch.
So, be sure and kind of tug on your knitting
when you're looking for how many inches that you've knitted
or you may have to take it off of the loom.
I would wait until you have a good amount there
and then pull downward on your knitting.
So, continue repeating those four rows
and you have your Reverse Edelweiss stitch flat panel.
All right, let's work on in-the-round.
Working in-the-round for the Reverse Rdelweiss stitch,
you wanna make sure you have a multiple of four.
If you're making a hat,
such as the one I'm doing here on the Elizabeth Hat,
I have it in multiples of eight.
This particular one is 88 stitches.
And of course it looks funny
'cause it's on the flexible flexiloom, like this.
But it is a very stretchy stitch and it will go down.
So you wanna start off
by making sure you have a stitch marker.
We're gonna work all the way across in-the-round
by knitting all stitches.
I'm gonna go clockwise.
You can go clockwise or counterclockwise
and just go one round all the way around.
And pause your video
and I'll meet you back up for round two.
All right, we've finished round one,
knitting all the way around with the U-wrap knit.
And now we're onto round two.
Now, make sure your stitch marker is in place on peg one.
We're going to knit peg one.
Now, we are going to have a multiple
that's even, of course.
And I'm knitting this peg
but we're gonna start working in pairs.
When we get to the end of this round,
you're actually going to also work peg one again
but in a pair with this last peg.
So the last peg and the first peg will get worked.
So, we're gonna do just as we did in the flat panel.
We're gonna be working
with the next pair of stitches together.
In this case, we have a light purple peg
and then this dark purple peg.
We're gonna call the light purple peg, peg two
or, actually, peg one.
And then we're gonna move that on to peg two.
Okay, so we're moving it
in the direction we're gonna be knitting.
And go behind the empty peg with our working yarn,
behind peg one, wrap it around peg two.
We're gonna go underneath these two stitches here
and pull downward to make a loop.
Pick that loop up and place it on peg one.
And then go ahead and tighten that up with the working yarn.
Now put the working yarn underneath peg two.
We're going to go down and pull up a loop
to make a purl two together.
So we did knit two together and purl two together
in the same stitch on this peg two.
And now we can pull off these two loops.
And then we're gonna take this loop
and place it on peg two and then tighten that up.
Okay?
You don't have to pull super tight or anything
but you do wanna make sure it's snug.
So, peg one and two are snugged up
and we've worked in the pair,
knitting two together first
and purling two together next.
And all of them in the same stitch.
So now you're gonna continue working in pairs,
all the way around.
Go ahead and pause your video
and we'll meet you back up
for working these last two stitches together.
All right?
Again, we're going to pick this first pick-up,
put it on peg two,
put your yarn to the back of peg one,
wrap around peg two,
go underneath these two loops,
pull downward to make a stitch,
place that stitch on peg one and tighten.
And then put your yarn down below peg two
and you're gonna scoop up a loop from both of those.
Take the old two pegs off,
old two loops off
and replace with that new loop
and tighten up and continue in pairs.
So go ahead and keep doing that.
Pause your video, I'll meet you back up
for the last stitch and the first stitch.
It's easy.
Oh, quick tip.
I can move a few stitches at a time, at first,
before I start working them.
So, I can go ahead and move over a few of the stitches
before I start working them.
But then they get tight after I do,
sometimes after just two of them,
or this one I was able to get four of them moved over.
So you can go ahead and get those set up that way
so that when you start to knit your stitches
and work with them, you can do a few back-to-back
before moving on to the next ones.
I hope that makes sense.
But that's a quick little tip there for you and,
there we go (laughs).
And then place that on there.
All right, so continue working.
Pause your video and I will see you soon.
I do wanna interrupt for a moment and just say,
when I'm working with this, I lean it up against my body,
on my stomach and this is actually how I work it.
So, I thought somebody might enjoy seeing how I do it.
So, I've got my yarn kind of wrapped up in here,
kind of like when I'm crocheting.
Put the yarn on it like that.
Of course I don't have my stomach
to kind of keep this in position,
but just so you see how I do it.
And then I pull this off
and then replace
and then do it again.
So it's a little bit different
than when I'm on the table here teaching.
So I don't actually hold it the same way.
Some people think, "Oh, wow!
How does she do that on the table?"
Sorry, I'm actually having a harder time doing it this way
'cause I don't have it against my body.
But, if you see, I kind of pull downward
and then wrap it around my hook here.
As long as my, the tip of my hook was in this little groove,
it works really well.
And then I'll pull it off and replace
and then tighten it up, okay?
One more time.
Put it over here, going behind and in front.
And if I could show my stomach on here,
you'd see that it actually is a lot easier.
It's just hard to kind of show that on camera here.
But when I pull down with my finger,
I can wrap it around like this
and then pull up.
Let me see if I can do it here again.
Go down, wrap it around
and then pull up
and then take that off.
I usually do it with my hook there.
Okay, I hope that helps someone.
All right, we are at the end of round two,
I have one more stitch here.
We're gonna place the last stitch onto your first stitch
and complete this pattern of the pairs.
So we go behind this last stitch here
and go ahead and do the true knit stitch.
Pull down when making a loop,
putting that loop
onto our last peg.
Pulling it tight, go underneath,
pull up a loop from the very first peg,
get around my stitch marker here.
So pull up a loop here to purl those two together,
take that off, put the new loop on,
tighten up.
And now you have completed round two.
Now, round three, we're just going to knit around,
just as we did on round one.
You don't have to knit the first stitch again
because it's already incorporated here,
it's already been knit.
So just start by knitting over.
So go ahead and work your knit round.
Pause your video and I will meet you back up for round four.
See you soon.
All right, so at the end of round three,
we've completed our knit round
and now we want to work round four
and that's the fourth round in our four-round repeat.
You're just going to be picking up the first stitch
and placing it on the second
and then working in pairs all the way around.
And so each one of these, obviously, is,
one of these links in this flexiloom shows you,
two light purple, you're gonna work those together,
two dark purple,
and so on and so on.
So you just follow it all the way around
and it ends in a pair.
So it works perfectly.
So, just continue again.
Only one more time.
Gonna pull a stitch downward,
working those two stitches together,
moving the knit to the first
and then we purl the same two stitches together
and then pull off the old stitch and put on the new.
So, continue working those rounds
for as long as you need for working in-the-round.
And you've got your Reverse Edelweiss stitch.
So, I will tell you that this is a very stretchy stitch.
and when this first started, this was very stretched out.
If you start making a hat this way,
it looks like it doesn't work.
But you actually really have to pull downward on here
to get that extra tightness out.
And you'll see it kind of relax down this way.
But if you're going to be measuring from this loom,
'cause a lot of loom knitters measure from it
instead of taking it off,
go ahead and grab your yarn,
really what, your loom really well, down here firmly
and then pull downward to kind of relax that yarn
before you try and measure it in a spot.
If you're measuring from the tip of a brim
to the top up here,
to make sure you get that measurement.
So, just keep that in mind.
Otherwise you're gonna have way too big of an item later on
or way too short.
I hope you enjoy learning
about the Reverse Rdelweiss stitch.
To get those patterns for flat or in-the-round,
be sure and go to our blog
or get the Elizabeth Hat pattern in five sizes.
From baby to adult, men's and women's sizes.
This is actually the women's size.
I did go a little bit longer than that recommended
that I have on there,
just so I can have a little rolled up brim.
But it will have this decreased crown
or shaped top on it as well.
So, I hope you join us soon again at GoodKnit Kisses.
For more tutorials, be sure and comment down below.
And catch me on Instagram.
Why don't you post your stuff there and tag me.
Tag me @goodknitkisses and I'd love to check out your work.
We'll see you soon.
Happy looming!
Thanks for joining us today
where we help you stitch your love and love your stitches.
See you again soon.