Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today i'm going to walk
you through the process to change out the front wheel bearing on our 2016
Polaris Ranger 900 XP. Just need to get it lifted up, get that front tire off, get
the hub assembly out, and then we'll press out that bearing and push in the
new one. So if you're ready, we'll head over to the tool table and discuss the
parts and the tools you're going to need to pull this off. So let's go
Welcome to the tool table this is going to be a skill level 2. Let's go over some
of the tools that you're going to need to pull this off. On the basic side, if
you just want to get sockets ranging from 15 up to 27, a couple of different
hammers, side cutters, needle nose pliers. But you will need to pick up a good set
of circlip pliers because that one that's holding the bearing in it can be
a bit of a bear to get out of there. As always, a good 3/8 socket, our breaker bar,
and then I'm actually going to be using two different torque wrenches. One
that's more accurate on the low inside, and one that can actually go up to 120
foot-pounds. Now you will need to pick up an entire bearing driver set as well as
a socket large enough to where the bearing will fit inside of it. Now if you
would, reference our exploded parts diagrams. That's going to show you
exactly where everything is, how it comes apart, and more importantly how it's
going to go back together. So once you've gone and picked out the parts that you
need for your machine and you have your tools assembled, we can go over there and
get it done. So let's go. Alright guys, before we get it lifted up I want to go
ahead and break loose the lug nuts, because they're gonna have about 120
foot pounds on them. Now if this was a steel rim, it would only be 60. But
because they're aluminum they have to go to 120. Alright, with that done we can
go ahead and lift it up and get it on a set of jack stands. Alright, let's start
by getting this wheel off. Alright guys, what we're gonna do is go ahead and take
off this cotter pin, remove that castle nut, and I'm going to be using an impact
to take it off and it's actually a 27 millimeter. If you don't have an impact,
what you need is another person. All they need to do is hop in and just hold the
breaks and then you can break this castle nut loose. Alright, you're gonna have two
washers to keep up with, and you also want to note which direction that came
out because they're actually a beveled edge and they're gonna need to go back
the same way they came out. At that point we can take off the caliper assembly and
that's just going to be a couple of 15 millimeter bolts. Alright, with that off I
want to go ahead and zip tie it up out of the way because I don't want it to
hang by its brake line. Then we can get to the steering arm you
actually have another cotter pin that needs to be taken out. And it goes
through the center of the bolt. Just need a couple of 15 millimeters here. Hold it
up at the top and take it off. And then the lower and upper control the same
thing. Another 15 millimeter. Get that bottom one to release. All right, we've
got everything except the drive axle. Let's see if we can get it to back out.
There we go. Alright before we can press it out we need to remove the
circlip. Just need a pair of circlip pliers to do that. There we go. Now we
just need to pick out a driver that will fit inside the hub and then we're gonna
press it out. Now the other important piece is we need a cup to go on this end
that's bigger than the bearing itself so the bearing has a place to go. This
should be big enough to handle it. Okay, let's look at our new bearing. Make sure
it's going to be big enough. Yeah, just barely, but it'll be able to drive the
old one into this cup. Alright let's see if we can get this thing pushed out.
Always that-- when it first breaks it loose it's very satisfying sound. There
she goes.
Next we want to clean out where the bearing was riding on the inside of this
hub. It's very important to get this clean because we need the bearing to
seat all the way down. Otherwise it won't seat and then you
will not get that snap ring back in place. Once we got it clean then we're
going to coat it down with red loctite. And then use that same cup to where it's
got a flat surface to press that new bearing in. We also want to change out
which bearing driver we were using and with this we want to drive the outside
of the bearing. So we do not want to do this because that'll be pushing on the
inner race. So we're gonna go with this one a little bit bigger that goes all
the way out to the outside of the bearing. That's it. You hear that sound?
Alright she is in place. Looking good. Let's get that circlip it back in. Pull it
all the way in, and there we go. Alright let's head back over and get it
put back together. Alright guys, we've got everything cleaned up. What we want to do
is go ahead and put some grease on our splines because if and when you do have
to take this axle back apart, you don't want it to be rusted. Because I've dealt
with that before and it's not a lot of fun. So do not skip this step. Also add
grease around here because it's actually going to go to the inside of the race on
the bearing. And when you're using all this grease, do not get it on the rotor
because as you can imagine grease and rotors? Well they don't play well
together. Alright guys, we've got everything greased back up, let's go
ahead and put our hub back together, and then we're gonna feed the CV joint
through, and then start working on our upper and lower control arms.
Get that bolt in and half the battle's already won. Now so let's go ahead and do
the lower. You want to make sure that you've got it where it'll go through
that grooved edge of the actual ball joint. Alright, we're going to get the
snug down first, and then torque it to 42 foot-pounds.
That's it. Next we can go ahead and get our steering control arm on. We're gonna
set it to 40 foot pounds. There we go. Now don't forget to put this little
cotter pin in. Next we want to go ahead and get the the caliper assembly put back
on. I'm just gonna cut it loose, and I want to go ahead and push the the
pistons back in where I've got enough wiggle room to get it over the rotor.
Next, before he put on your caliper bolts I want to go ahead and get some blue
loctite on them. Then we're gonna torque them to 30 foot-pounds. Next let's
address the the castle nut that goes on the end of our half shaft. Now remember,
when we took off these two washers they had a beveled edge to them. You want to make
sure that that bevel is facing inward.
Next you need to get somebody to hop up and hold the brakes that way we can get
this torqued down to 80 foot-pounds. Alright let's get our cotter pin back in.
The way Polaris does this, they just go straight through and they actually bend
up both tabs and press it against the end. Alright guys we're getting really
close to finishing up. Let's go get the tire on. Alright guys we've got them
snugged down. Let's drop it down on the ground and go ahead and set them to 120
foot pounds. Alright guys that wraps this one up. Well listen, If you need any parts
for your machine, why don't you come see us at Partzilla.com and we can get you
taken care of. You have any questions or comments? Leave them in the section below
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