Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today i'm going to walk
you through the process to swap out our inner and outer CV joint boots on our
2016 Yamaha YXZ1000R. We're actually using part numbers as part of a
kit, and they come complete with the boots, the grease-- everything that you're
going to need to get these installed. Ours are actually in good shape, but I'm
gonna go ahead and walk you through the process how to replace both, because once
these get a rip in them, it's only a matter of time for dirt and or water get
inside that joint and destroy it. Now if that happens, then you're gonna have to
replace the entire axle and I don't think you won't have to do that. Now as
far as the tools go, I will call those out as I go along
but there is one specialty tool that you'll need to pick up, and that's a pair
of pliers that actually crimp down on the bands that hold the boots in place.
Well, let me go open up my toolbox, grab a couple of tools, and we'll dive
into this project.
Alright guys, let's get started. First thing we want to do is take off the axle
nut, and that is a 32 millimeter. I'm using an air impact, but if you don't
have one, have somebody hold the brakes and that should be enough to break it
loose. We're going to go ahead and pull off the brake caliper assembly just at
the bracket itself. The brake caliper bracket is held in by 14 millimeter bolt.
One here at the top, another one down at the bottom. What we're gonna do next
is just take off this one bracket and then we're gonna bring up the caliper
and just zip tie it to that front bracket. Next let's get the steering ball
joint off-- or control arm-- whatever you want to call it. Should be a cotter pin
down here. And a castle nut is a 19 millimeter and then there will be a
washer up under that. Make sure you don't misplace it. Unscrew the castle nut to
where it's even with the bottom of the joint, then we're gonna get a soft blow
hammer, tap it. Hopefully that'll knock it out of the the knuckle. But don't remove
it until we do that. Sometimes a soft blow will not do it. You have to go with
the regular steel one, as I was saying. That
get it? Yep, that did. Good way to keep this together: go ahead and put the washer and
the castle nut onto the end of it. One, you won't lose it, two, lessens the risk
of damaging it. Now let's go ahead and get this cotter pin out of the way. Get that
lower castle nut removed.
Alright, stop there. Let's go ahead and take off the lower shock mount. That's a
14 on one side and a 17 nut on the other.
Make life a little bit easier, getting creative with a couple of bungee cords
to hold the shock up out of the way. What I'm gonna do is I've got another nut
with the same thread pitch and diameter and I'm gonna put it on the end of it,
and then I can hit this with a hammer. Otherwise I'd be marring the edges the
castle nut because it's gonna take a little bit more than just a gentle tap
to break this loose. What I'm doing here is just lifting it up and putting on a
jack stand. That way I have more distance I can swing the hammer to hit the nut
and hopefully, this will give me enough distance where I can hit it hard enough
just knock it loose out of the hub itself. I think that finally got it.
I've deformed it to the point the socket won't go on it anymore. Now you see why I
put a different nut on there.
Had I used a harder metal, it wouldn't
deformed so easily. Probably wouldn't have been a problem. But I didn't, so we're gonna
try to use the impact to get that nut off. A castle nut would not have survived
this. But it's clear now. Now let's get this out of the way, see if we can get
this to pull through the hub.
There we go. Now let's hold the whole shootin' match up so we can get that axle
out. There we go. Well, she's out. Let's head over to the teardown bench and I'll
walk you through getting these replaced. I wanted to show you the different
pliers that you're gonna need because Yamaha actually used two different style
bands: one for the inside, one for the outside. And you're gonna need both types
of pliers to actually get those clamps in place. This type you actually can
squeeze together, and if you do it correctly when I take it off, I could
actually reuse it. The other side actually compresses it together and
pushes it down, and you'll need this type of plier to do it. So between these two,
we can get the whole project done. So let's go ahead and get this mounted up
in the vise and we'll start pulling it apart. So there's a couple of different
ways we can do this. My favorite way is just to grab and just start twisting and
she'll break loose. Like that. Now the other end, we can grab right here,
compress it together, and then lift off this end to get it to release. Not quite
as violent as the other end, huh?
Here's where you're gonna want to get the gloves on. Let's go ahead and break the seal loose. Now
here's where you want to pay careful attention. Depending on how long your
boot has been ripped, that will determine how much trash and water and dirt and
debris have made its way in there. And if this is not very fluid feeling, you were
just postponing the inevitable and you either need to go ahead and replace the
whole joint now or the whole axle. Really up to you, but of course mine was not
ripped yet, so this joint should be in good shape. You do want to, however get out
as much of the old grease as possible because they actually send you new
grease in the kit. We're going to be using a punch and a hammer, and the part
that we want to hit is right inside of here.
You do not want to hit this outer part of the bearing, or this outer edge
because you run the risk of actually driving it all the way off, and then the
bearings go flying everywhere and you've made a mess. Or if you hit this section,
it is very brittle and it'll actually shatter. So, have to be careful in here. So
we're gonna use the chisel, but one with a fairly blunt edge because we're gonna
put it right in here and then hit it with our hammer. Yep, see it already
popped it loose because there's a little snap ring that's actually holding it
here. And what we're doing as we force it out it is compressing it in and then
that will allow us to go ahead and tap it off of there.
But that first hit is what matters, so now it's already compressed and we
should be able to just tap it easily to get to the rest the way off. There we go.
There's that ring I was talking about, and they actually send you a new one in
the kit. Now this side we don't need to remove. We just take it out of the vise,
take the boot all the way off, and we'll get the new one pushed on there. These had
not failed yet but I can tell you it was getting close. They are not very pliable,
especially that one. Everything is apart, cleaned up fairly
well. Let's go ahead and start getting our boots back on, get it filled up with
grease, get up over that edge. There we go. Same thing. See that little edge right there
you need to get it up over? Where it rises up? You need to get over that where
it gets into that groove. Now let's go ahead and at least get this into
position so we can go ahead and clamp it down in our vise. Very important: go and
get your small clamp on first, then our boot. And now we're gonna put on our new
little snap ring. Tell you while we've got it all the way off, let's put a little
grease straight down into here, that way it'll force it on the backside or the
inside of the bearing. Force some of that new grease in when we go to put the
shaft on. Alright, to get this one on, you may have to guide in that little clip
just a tick to get it in the edge like that.
Alright, she's bottomed out. Now, finish getting some grease in there, and we
want to keep it off the outside because we want it to get a clean clamp onto
the boot edge. And what we're gonna do is grab it in between here and here, pull
the clamp together, and then this section will grab down on these two teeth.
That's it. Same thing for the outside. Now we're grabbing it here and here,
pulling it together, and then getting those teeth to engage. That's it.
And now we'll switch up pliers and squeeze these into position, because what
this does is it pulls it in and pushes it down at the same time. All there is to
it.
That's it. Alright guys, that wraps it up. Let's go
and get it reinstalled. And if you're really paying attention, you'll notice
that the shock had been removed. There were several other videos that we did
concerning the ball joints, and the bearings, and the seals that necessitated
it being removed. I'm going to of course reinstall it when we finish up,
but you probably didn't have to pull it all the way off the machine just to do
your axle. Let's hold this up.
There it is. Now put a little bit more grease on the end of our half shaft so it
doesn't wear out those inner seals. And in the event we ever have to replace the
bearings on this, it'll come out and not be frozen. There. Starting to come
together guys, starting to come together. Down here, we needed to set in place,
go ahead and get this castle nut started. We're gonna bring it up, put some
pressure on this where it's pushing it up in there. See if that's got enough
pressure to hold it. Got it. Go ahead and do 51 on that one, then go ahead and get in
our cotter pins. Alright doesn't quite line up on that hole, so we're gonna move
it just a little bit more. That should do it.
That's it.
Now we can go and remount the shock. This is 17 on the nut side and a 14 on the
bolt side. 47 coming up. One more time down here. Before we go any further, let's
go ahead and torque down the tie-rod bolt. 29 foot-pounds on this. There we go.
And it does have a cotter pin. Let's go ahead and get our our shield back on, and
it's just held in with three four millimeter Allens. Next let's put some
grease inside of our hub on the splines and also on the surface area right here
so it doesn't destroy that seal too quickly. Keep the grease off the brake
disc there. We'll go and put this on just hand tight. Alright guys, we're getting
ready to torque down this bolt, and it takes 268 pounds and there's no way the
braking system can hold it by itself. So there's only two ways I know of: either A--
to put a breaker bar through here and let it go against the ground, which is
what we're gonna do. Or you can finish putting the machine together, take out
that center cap, lower it right down with the wheel in place, and then you can get the
torque on it. But we're going to use a breaker bar to get this done. And
actually my torque wrench only goes to 260, but we're gonna call that good. Go
till it clicks and then flex it just a little bit more to get those last eight
in there. So now we're gonna just stake it in place.
There we go. We are getting close. We're down to the caliper now. Get these
bottomed out and then we'll torque them to 35 foot-pounds. One left to do. Alright
guys, that's gonna wrap this one up. Only thing I have left to do now-- or you have
left to do now-- is just to remount the tire and wheel. But as you can see, I
still have a lot more work to do, so we're not going to worry about that
right now. Well listen, if you need these parts for your machine, or anything else,
why don't you come see us at partzilla.com and we can get you taken
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