How you doing and thanks for watching. This George at Wicked Warnings, your number one
source for construction and emergency safety and strobe lighting equipment such as items for cars,
vans, trucks, buses, SUVs, everything in between, bicycles, tricycles. What we're looking at is
a 2020 Ford Explorer, brand new Ford Explorer with those real fancy brand new LED headlights.
We wanted an easy kit, four corner kit, you could do in white, or amber, or green, or red, or blue,
or even purple. So this kit here, you can do in all the different colors. What you're seeing
is a pair of our TIR-3's mounted in the front bumper cover there on a 90 degree bracket.
Our LIN-6 will also fit there on a 90 degree bracket and there will be a good tutorial also
for this kit. I did a full kind of run through of the install, showed you all the goodies in
the details. We'll put that at the end of the video. So right now, you're seeing that TIR in
amber alternating in the front there. Simple, nice, easy, effective. I like this mount too because
it keeps the light back far enough that a car wash brush is probably not going to affect it.
You can see here, it's kind of tucked back in there. So hopefully they stay a nice
long happy life there without getting smashed off by a car wash or anything like that.
Around the back of the car, we're in the turn signal bucket with a hideaway.
You can use either a low dome or high dome, plenty of room in these lenses. You can also
supplement this with another color below that in the reverse if you wanted. Totally up to you
and as I said, we got hideaways in every color. So whatever your combination of color you like, you can
have on this vehicle. We did make a kit for all the wiring and connectors and everything that
you should need to put this together. So check at the end of the video for details on this install
and links to all the different products. Thanks again for watching Wicked Warnings. We hope
you tune in soon, see some more good videos and keep us in mind. We are your number one source for
construction and emergency LED safety and strobe lighting equipment. I'll see you on the next video.
I almost forgot, there's the switch. A nice blue full illumination right there and
as I said, we're going to show you some more in-depth video details right now.
Alright, hello everybody. This is going to be kind of the install
portion, the install information portion of the video. I'll try to show you everything I did.
This is a 2020 Ford Explorer. You can tell it's a 2020, it's got those fancy new LED headlights.
So this is what we did, seemed to work pretty good for us. If you like it, you could do something
similar. If not, no big deal. I'm not claiming to be an expert that this is the best way in the
world to do anything. I'm just showing you what worked for us. So in the front here, as you saw
in the video, we've got our TIR-3's. The way that we mounted those was with the 90 degree bracket
like that and we were able to use a six inch drill bit to go right up like that.
We line the bracket right up with the edge of that black right here
and we use the supplied screws to mount it with the bracket. It worked out fairly well. They're not
tipped up very much, just a slight slight upward angle, which is okay considering how low they are
on the vehicle. We ran a fish tape right this way, kind of behind the bumper on each side.
It's easier on the driver's side but we did run that fish tape. We prepared all the wire. We used
22-5 power control to extend both of these TIR-3's all the way back into the cabin of the truck.
We came up behind the headlight with the wire here.
You can kind of see down in there where the wire goes. See it down in there.
Okay, then we took it right under the main radiator support. Took it down this way
right behind here.
The other wire, pretty much same location. It's coming up through here.
Now I did and I do recommend leaving a couple loops of wire there. Reason being is you can loosen
up those loops and you could pull the front bumper off if you needed to for some reason
without cutting out wires. So we put a couple of loops right there, leave a little bit extra slack.
Or if the body shop did want to cut the wires, they at least have nice long wire to make the reconnect
but you really don't have to cut them. You could take it off without cutting them. So up here,
we ran right under into there, into the battery fuse compartment. Here in the fuse panel, we used
our fuse holder. This big aluminum bar here shows a real good ground. So we use a self-tapper
screw right here in the top of it. Now there is a ground factory buried back there, but you do
take the risk of dropping that bolt and it's really kind of difficult to get to, so
just seemed to be nice and easy to do a self-tapper right there and grab a good
ground. On the power stud for the fuse box here, underneath the cover, you can put an eight millimeter
bolt right on top of the factory eight millimeter bolt. You don't even need to take the bolt out
for the factory wire, you can just double nut it. It's actually a nut, not a bolt. Sorry about that.
So you put another nut on top and put your ring terminal between the nuts and tighten it up. Right?
So that's how we got that. The wiring goes down and you can see right down here,
right there, there's a factory grommet that we're actually going through
right to the lower left of the main wire harness. You see there, there's a rubber plug.
So that's where we're running all our wire right through that rubber plug
and we did leave some extra wire down here, so we can move it around and I do want to say,
stay away from this linkage. This linkage here, this moves. This is your wipers, so don't go putting any
wires anywhere near any of this because this moves back and forth. So we're gonna actually
tuck the fuse right over here along the side like that and keep it tucked away from any of
those wiper linkages. So that's how we're doing it on the front. Let's see how this looks from inside.
Okay, so I've uncovered quite a bit here so you can kind of see what we're talking about.
There's your factory wire pass-through. There is a nipple you could cut off and try to go through
the factory boot but it is extremely difficult and very hard to get to, so that little rubber boot
right there seems to work real good. I also wrote in blue marker there, that blue reflective. If you
needed to drill your own hole, for some reason if this rubber plug isn't there, or if you needed
to put a lot of wire through one of these cars, you could drill another hole right next to it
all the way up to probably one inch and get a one-inch rubber grommet and put it in there.
So that's your option. We're gonna tidy up all those wires. We brought them up here, right here
behind the fuse panel on the inside, and this is where we mounted our switch right here. Now the
one thing I will say, I will mount this a little bit lower next time. You can see I went pretty
much even with the top of this panel and it was just a little close to a metal brace back there.
So when you drill your switch, go about 3/8 of an inch below the top of this panel and your switch
will fit a little bit easier than mine. That'll be a little note I'll put in the video also.
We tucked up our wiring all behind here. Now to wire to the rear of the vehicle, I'm gonna- actually,
we started behind this panel. Now this is a little bit funky taking this apart.
We actually didn't. If you want to take this apart and remove this whole driver's kick,
feel free, you can. What I did is I tucked underneath here and I was able-
I was able to pull up this half of the kick easy without removing this.
So we popped it loose. We pulled it up here. We were able to tuck under the front here,
get the wiring all underneath here. We were able to pass a little fish tape through here,
bring the wiring out the back. So that's how you get this area here all wired with your 18-5 that's
going to be heading from your switch to the rear of the vehicle to do your hideaways most likely.
Here you can see where we have it kind of coming out from under there. It's running
right through here. It's running to the back. We went underneath this factory thing here
around the back of the seat belt and here, right in here, honestly if you put your hand in here
and you put your hand in there, you can almost touch your fingers.
So it's pretty easy to go from here to here. Right, that's a no-brainer right there
and then this panel, this panel right here, this is what it looks like.
So here's what we're looking at. We got some clips. We've got some of these rectangular plugins
here and we got this one yellow clip. This yellow clip might actually stay down in there but
that's the panel. That's what you're going to be looking at to remove it,
basically just pulls up pretty easy on that one. Alright, let me show you from this point back.
Okay, so in the back here, you can see we've removed a few panels but these are very easy
to remove. Don't be intimidated. There we go. It's like the cup holder panel on the left side here,
it all just pops straight up and out. Same thing on the right side. The panels just pop straight
up and out. All this stuff in the middle just pulls right out. This panel here, the way you pull it out
is pull it out and up. So you can pull it this way and pull it up and that'll remove like that.
You'll end up with this pile of stuff on the floor. Like I say, here's your your little cup
holder panel for the left side and then here's what it looks like underneath it. You could see
it's just the clips that drop right down in place and then this is your spare tire panel
and you could see here how that one you have to pull it out and then up. See,
so that's gonna be in the car like that. Then you need to pull the bottom out and then up.
All this stuff just basically falls right out of the car. Okay, so once you get it disassembled
behind the tail light here, you'll see this rubber plug and I like to put a hole in that rubber
plug. A nice little hole just like that. How I do that, my favorite tool is this. It's a 3/16 punch. I
use a backer, little block of wood behind it, and put it through there, and this seems to work
very well for me. That hole is to pass the hideaway wire through. You're going to put your hideaway
wire through that hole nicely. Then you're going to put this grommet right back in there. This grommet
just pops right in super easy. When you put the hideaway wire in there, it's very easy to get it
right on the other side. You just reach up underneath there and you can find it right away.
So this side is already done. I guess I should tell you how to take the tail light out first.
First thing you're going to see is these panels right here, these little
side panels and I want to say those remove like this. They're going to snap in on the top,
so you're going to want to pry out on the top and up on the bottom and they go in like this.
Okay, see right like this. So when you pry them to remove them, pry on the top, because if you're prying the
sides at the bottom, you're liable to break them. So they go in like that and then inside of there,
you'll see a plastic 11 millimeter nut, bolt, thing, whatever that is, spring mechanism. That's the main
thing that holds the light in. 11 millimeter, use a hand tool for that because it's easy to break it
and once you take that out, the whole light will pop right out and you'll be left with this.
Now here's what the light looks like when it's out of the vehicle. You'll see it has a little pin
back here, that little pin kind of snaps in to the side of the vehicle. So if you're having a little
problem with the light removal, that little pin right there on the corner might be your
trouble. Once you get the light out, this rubber thing here also just pops right off,
just lines up with these little tabs. You can get that out of your way right now
and this is where you're going to be wanting to drill your hole. I think this is about the easiest
place to drill, nice flat hole. Easy to mount a hideaway right there. You can use any of our
hideaways, low dome, high dome, doesn't matter. Here's a high dome for instance. Mounts right in there. You
can see plenty of room, so no issues at all, and this is how we mount the light. We mount that in
there. This is what we take over into there. This is my favorite tool for removing those little panels.
It's a very thin, very thin pry bar. The thicker pry bars seem to leave gouges in the plastic, so we
found these on Amazon. Really thin little tools. You got a one inch hole saw for drilling a hole.
Always, when you drill your hole, always always, it's like a two-person operation, hold it on the edge,
hold it down, drill from the bottom up, and make sure your shop vac is close by because
you want to suck all those shavings out of there before they go scattering all around the lens.
The other way is a one inch unibit like this. This leaves a nice clean hole. Either one of these
more than acceptable. Here's your 11 millimeter socket. Once again, there's your punch tool 3/16.
So the end result again, gonna be a nice clean hole right about there. That's what we're gonna
seal our hideaway into. That's gonna give us our color. Now if you wanted two hideaways,
sure you could put another one down here. Same style, same location, and then you're gonna
get an upper-lower flash on this lens. So totally acceptable and if you wanted, you could even put it
down here. If you really wanted, you just have to use a lot more silicone because
this is not very level here. So it seems like it's easy to seal here and here.
Back over to this side, you can see here how we ran our hideaway wire. It came out down here, like I say.
We ran it right across the factory wiring here. We ran it all the way over to here and over here, we
have tied up our HAW DUO module or our ECO HAW module and that's where our wire's can be plugged
in. Now we zip tied this so it isn't going to be rattling around. Some of these cars may have a
secondary battery back here, you'll have to work around a little bit, but you can definitely see
there's easy to get to and a lot of room. So once you tie all that up, you should be good to go.
Reassemble everything and I think that's about all.
Trying to think if there's any other things I needed to remind you about on this install.
Keep the fuse appropriate. On my system here, two TIR-3's and one pair of HAW DUO's, I am running a five
amp fuse and it is more than enough. So hopefully this helped you. Like I said, this is just what I did.
I'm not saying it's the best method in the entire world. I'm just saying, this is how it works for me
and seemed like it worked out good on this 2020 Explorer. So maybe it'd worked
for you too. Thanks again for watching Wicked Warnings and hopefully this was helpful.