Hi, Jason with Tormach. We got video for you today. We're going to show you how to
assemble and calibrate your Haimer 3D Sensor. So we've got the next-generation
sensor here. You can see, it's the large face. It's the one that I prefer to use
just because it's got the big face. Nice and easy to read in the machine. As you
can see, there's kind of two pieces here. We have the sensor itself, and then we
have the TTS holder. If we look at the end of the Haimer, you can see there's
four set screws that come around the outside, and this is what actually
centers the Hamer on the center of the axes. So one of the calibration steps
that we'll need to do is we'll put this, once it's assembled, we'll put this
holder together, we'll put it in in the spindle, and then we'll actually rotate
the Haimer, and we'll use these four little set screws to center it up and
get it to spin true. The second calibration that we need to
do is to get the needle on the center. So this is control this whole dial face is
sitting on four different set screws so we have two on the top and we have two
on the bottom. So we can just change the position of that dial by moving these
set screws. You really want to keep in mind that it's a dial
indicator, so it's real fragile. When you're adjusting these you always want
to loosen one side then tighten the other, and you don't need to..please don't
over tighten it. Just be real gentle, real light touch on it is more than enough to
keep it functioning and working properly for you. So to adjust the needle again
it's just we'll adjust these top and these bottom four screws and we'll just
be moving that whole dial face up and down to get that back on center. So let's
get this thing assembled quick. There's just a single set screw on the TTS
holder itself let's take a three millimeter allen wrench here and we'll
just slightly snug this up. We don't need to go crazy tight on this. It's not..it
doesn't spin on his own. It's just just enough to keep it from falling out. And
then from here we can go ahead and load it up into one of our machines and start
to indicate it in. So we got it loaded in the spindle. I'm just gonna grab my dial
indicator. Just a magnetic base. Just get it on the tip of the tool here. So you
can see we just got our indicator sitting around the end of the the Haimer
probe and as we rotate this around. You can see that we have some run-out so
there. We're at about you know 14 mm-and.. you know some about three and a half
thousand ..of total total indicator run-out. When you're making adjustments
like this it's always easier to move it straight with the set screws these are
all you know they're at ninety degrees so if you can push it straight one way
or the other it does make the indicating go a little quicker for you so you can
find our high spot here and that puts us with this set screw facing us so to
adjust this we need a two millimeter allen wrench and you always want to
loosen and then tighten when you're making these adjustments you don't want
to just over tighten and damage the component so we'll just real lightly
loosen this up I'll just barely snug this we're actually gonna crack one of
the sides loose as well just so that we can move it a little freer now let's
kind of work this around as we go
then as we do this we just always want to be making sure that we're keeping one
side loose as we tighten the other and you can influence the indicator reading
if we push and pull on the spindle real hard so when you when you are rotating
this you just want a real light touch on it see here we're down to about a
thousand a half and now we're in between two of the set screws here so what I'm
going to do is I'm going to loosen both on the backside and I'm gonna try to
move it half with each group so I'm going to move this one to use up just a
little bit of that number and then I'm gonna move the other one about an equal
amount just trying to keep it running true as we go see there we got it right
down about a 5/10 run out and the magic question everybody always wants to know
is how good is good enough and that's a very individual question if you're
making components and they have a $30,000 you know a couple thousand out
on this or variation might be plenty plenty good for what you're trying to
accomplish but if you're really trying to hold some really tight tolerances you
know obviously the tighter this the more accurate that this is set up and
calibrated the more accurate your setups can be so we always want it as close as
you can get it then as we get it real close we're just going to kind of start
tightening up the set screws as we come around
so we've just find what sides high now we've got it real close to finish so
we're just gonna Snug them up as we go around but we want to make sure that we
don't we don't drive the run out any out any further so that one's snug so there
you can see we've got the run out it's not quite moving it's a little less than
5/10 run out which I'm more than happy with on this should be should work just
fine for all of our needs I'm just going to go around again just to make sure
that I've got all my sets screws snug I don't have any that are just
sitting or loose so we got the indicator calibrated for run out we can actually
set the dial gauge to zero and you can do this in the machine or out of the
machine whatever is easier for you I'm actually gonna take it out so that we
can show you guys a little bit easier here on the workbench so as you can see
our long arm on the indicator we're sitting about you know about half an
increment off so just be a real light adjustment I don't know which way we
need to turn this here so we're just going to go ahead and make a turn and
you can see this is about a one and a half millimeter allen wrench so when we
tighten the top side it's moving the indicator the right so we actually want
to go the other way so I'm just gonna back these up again just a little bit
you can see as I loosen and take the tension off of it it's actually coming
right back to zero so you see then we can just walk it right on and get it
right at zero this is one of those things that when you get your high mer
and it's new you'll definitely want to check the calibration it's always worth
a couple minutes of your time just to make sure that it's zeroed and
everything's set up and ready to go when it's new and then if you break one of
the tips off or you drop it or if it gets damaged or something over time
you know it's just something that you can real quickly identify on the
indicator arm isn't on zero anymore now we got our indicator arm right at zero
so everything should be calibrated we've installed the holder we set the run out
and we set our dial at zero I hope you guys enjoyed that video and find it
useful on how to calibrate your himer please watch our other youtube videos
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