You have to remove your neutral safety switch from your old clutch assembly, from your master
cylinder assembly here, from the actual cylinder rod that goes inside of the cab. To remove
it, the bottom of it, two plastic tabs, right here. Just push those together and slide this
keeper up and out. Then you just simply push on the top of the switch and that will release
the spring loaded side. Then push from the bottom. There's the entire switch.
This grommet is foam grommet. This rolls over. This plastic one does not. You put your foam
grommet back on your new assembly and your spring will engage right here on this shoulder.
So when you go to put your new switch on, you want to start with it low to make sure
that your spring assembly engages there. Pop everything back into place and replace your
cover. There's your neutral safety switch.
Now that we've got our safety switch installed, we're just going to give you a little tip
here and make this easier on you. Volaris hydraulic assembly that they send you does
not come with the metal bracket. This metal bracket inside the cab is held on by two 15-metric
nuts. It's right through the firewall and it's right where we unhooked our old assembly.
It will be easier on you to go ahead and take this bracket off the firewall and assemble
it onto the master cylinder before you put it in the truck. Just trust me on this one.
There's only one way that this goes, and there's two washers on here. There's a thin one and
there's a thick rubber washer. You just want to make sure that this is tight. Okay? That's
the key, is making sure it's tight. It only goes on here one way. It's got four ears on
it and you can try it all four different ways, but you'll see that only three ears will be
on. There's the fourth way, and that's the only way it goes. So just turn to lock this
in place. This is correct. All right. We've got that started. Now, we're going to go ahead
and drop this in the truck now. We'll finish locking this into place once we get it in
inside the vehicle.
We'll start by fishing our slave cylinder down going towards the transmission. It will
go between you brake blocks, your brake box, and your steering shaft here and into the
outside of the frame rail. Be very careful of the starter because you got no parts on
here. Go on, [inaudible 00:02:50].
You keep the hydraulic lines down. The bottom portion of your hydraulic line down. Now,
before you go to fishing too much here, you'll want to start your connecting rod and your
electrical portion back into the cab while you're kind of fishing your lines down through
at the same time. All right.
All right. Finish locking it into place. Then you'll push your dust boot up and over. What
we'll do is we'll finish that once we get it bolted inside the cab. That's got our hydraulic
line that goes to the sleeve center. That's got that pointed down and your reservoir will
be actually pointed up. Make sure that you don't have anything kinked, and we'll probably
be mounting our reservoir somewhere in this area right here, as long as we can get to
it to fill it in case we need to and it's not kinked up. So, there's our master cylinder
portion of what's outside the firewall.
Now, we're going to do the slave cylinder side. On your slave cylinder, you'll have
plastic locking tabs that hold the push rod in. You don't cut these or break these. What
will happen is when we attach this the first time that we touch the clutch pedal, that's
going to break these tabs and that's going to disengage the push rod there.
Voltage inside of the transmission. Two 13-metric nuts hold it on, and you'll want your hydraulic
line pointing up. That keeps it away from the front drive shaft here. What we'll do
basically is we'll zip tie it up everywhere, where it won't make contact with anything
in rotation like the steering shaft and the drive shaft. I'm just going to kind of get
a gauge on where I need to be there.
That's where I want it is right there because that's the only place where it's not kinked
or anything like that. We zip tie it right to one of those brake lines and we got it.
Now, we're going to tighten up both the 15-metric bolts. There's one right above this and just
to the right. Going to tighten up both of these bolts, and we're going to rehook our
electrical connection in for our neutral safety switch. And then we're going to adjust our
rod. Now, when you're adjusting the pedal on your hydraulic assembly, the rod is actually
going to come run all the way in. I wish I had a little bit better shot on it because
I've already adjusted it a little bit here, but your rod will probably be run all the
way to the back of the assembly. Now, to adjust the rod, you'll just loosen up this jam nut,
and then you can extend your travel or decrease your travel.
What I've got right here, and I just kind of gauged it by just mocking it up here, looking
at the hydraulic assembly, what I've done is I've just kind of mocked it up here. I've
got it to where it's just about even on travel. Right there. Where it's just about even on
travel with my brake pedal. It's just about even with my brake pedal. That's going to
be my starting point from right there. I may have to do some adjustment on it. I'll know
more here in just a second, but what we're going to do now is we're just going to finish
getting everything battened up inside here, and then see where our adjustments at.